Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Moderator: Dan Szwarc
Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Fixing the hubcap problem:
As you all know there are advantages of going to 15 inch wheels on the early 60's Lincolns, namely to be able to buy affordable tires that fit and carry the load of these big cars, therefore saving a bunch of money over the $200 Coker tires. I saved over $400 on my set of 5 (including the cost of new wheels and conversion materials)
One of the disadvantages is that many times you have to change to later model year's hubcaps which are 15", thus sacrificing originality for practicality. Below you will see how to convert a 14" wheel cover to fit a 15" wheel (My car is a 1963, but would work with any 14 inch outside gripper style hubcap). Some people have said that they just bend the tabs, but I only mutilated my hubcap trying to make it fit, and if you are successful, (I gave up) you will have a section of the painted wheel showing all around the hubcap, not making it a full wheel cover, also making you go for an imperfect wheel balance by hiding the wheel weights in the back (this method hides them). If you change to a later model hubcap, you will also have to deal with the special Cadillac type wheel weights- this method will also allow standard wheel weights.
What you will end up with is this:
(click to enlarge)
As you will see, you really have to stare at the photo to notice the addition of a trim ring around the outside diameter, therefore making it a full wheel cover.
I purchased a set of used trim rings of a Chevy Astro van (cost me $30 for 4)- these GM type trim rings are very common and were used for many years on GM rally type wheels. I have even seen these sold new at Chevrolet reproduction specialty shops (used on old Camaros). They consist of a double layer construction, with the outside being polished stainless steel-flat on the edges, and the inner layer, regular galvanized steel where the grippers are mounted. These grippers according to the tire store I bought them from they hold very well since they are made of spring steel and not just bent tabs on a hubcap. You will notice when you try to get them off your car. The gripper location will change the way your hubcap grips the wheel, it will now work like a regular hubcap, but is held on with spring loaded grippers that are a part of the new trim ring.
(click to enlarge)
Here is what they look like:
(click to enlarge)
After measuring 5/8" inches in from the outside circumference, mark the ring with a permanent marker. If you make a mistake, just remove it with some fine steel wool, and remark.
Like this:
(click to enlarge)
You then get an air cut off tool (I bought a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about $12 and it worked great) and cut out the majority of the stainless side of the trim ring. Reminder...The sparks will fly so move your gas can out of the garage. You could also use a dremel tool with a cutoff head:
(click to enlarge)
THIS 5/8" IS CRITICAL, SINCE IT HAS TO BE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE HUBCAP TO FIT IN, YET 1/2" OF THE OUTSIDE TRIM RING WILL SHOW, WHEN IN DOUBT, LEAVE A LITTLE ROOM AND YOU CAN HIT IT AGAIN WITH THE CUT OFF WHEEL TO STOP AT THE 5/8" MARK.
After new inner stainless ring is removed and discarded, I hit the outside edge of the remaining trim ring with the buffing wheel, and some polish before assembly.
(click to enlarge)
For an added measure of safety, and to prevent rattling, I bent a couple of gripper tabs straight, that I will then later pop rivet to the trim ring.
(click to enlarge)
When inserting the hubcap, I used some needle nose pliers and bent in the tabs and supporting ring on the hubcap since it is a very tight fit. Before you insert the hubcap, make sure that your hole is big enough in the trim ring to accept it because once you press the hubcap in, the grippers of the hubcap will lock on the edge of the trim ring and is very difficult to remove (that is a good thing once on the road). If you have to remove the hubcap you have to use a screwdriver from the back side to release the grippers.
Insert hubcap, then pop rivet (1/8"x 5/8" rivets) the straightened out grippers (I only did 2, since the regular hubcap grippers work so well.
(click to enlarge)
I feel I am helping out the auto industry, by improving inter-racial relations with my Chevy wheels and trim rings (but I do not want to show anyone more than 1")
As you all know there are advantages of going to 15 inch wheels on the early 60's Lincolns, namely to be able to buy affordable tires that fit and carry the load of these big cars, therefore saving a bunch of money over the $200 Coker tires. I saved over $400 on my set of 5 (including the cost of new wheels and conversion materials)
One of the disadvantages is that many times you have to change to later model year's hubcaps which are 15", thus sacrificing originality for practicality. Below you will see how to convert a 14" wheel cover to fit a 15" wheel (My car is a 1963, but would work with any 14 inch outside gripper style hubcap). Some people have said that they just bend the tabs, but I only mutilated my hubcap trying to make it fit, and if you are successful, (I gave up) you will have a section of the painted wheel showing all around the hubcap, not making it a full wheel cover, also making you go for an imperfect wheel balance by hiding the wheel weights in the back (this method hides them). If you change to a later model hubcap, you will also have to deal with the special Cadillac type wheel weights- this method will also allow standard wheel weights.
What you will end up with is this:
(click to enlarge)
As you will see, you really have to stare at the photo to notice the addition of a trim ring around the outside diameter, therefore making it a full wheel cover.
I purchased a set of used trim rings of a Chevy Astro van (cost me $30 for 4)- these GM type trim rings are very common and were used for many years on GM rally type wheels. I have even seen these sold new at Chevrolet reproduction specialty shops (used on old Camaros). They consist of a double layer construction, with the outside being polished stainless steel-flat on the edges, and the inner layer, regular galvanized steel where the grippers are mounted. These grippers according to the tire store I bought them from they hold very well since they are made of spring steel and not just bent tabs on a hubcap. You will notice when you try to get them off your car. The gripper location will change the way your hubcap grips the wheel, it will now work like a regular hubcap, but is held on with spring loaded grippers that are a part of the new trim ring.
(click to enlarge)
Here is what they look like:
(click to enlarge)
After measuring 5/8" inches in from the outside circumference, mark the ring with a permanent marker. If you make a mistake, just remove it with some fine steel wool, and remark.
Like this:
(click to enlarge)
You then get an air cut off tool (I bought a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about $12 and it worked great) and cut out the majority of the stainless side of the trim ring. Reminder...The sparks will fly so move your gas can out of the garage. You could also use a dremel tool with a cutoff head:
(click to enlarge)
THIS 5/8" IS CRITICAL, SINCE IT HAS TO BE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE HUBCAP TO FIT IN, YET 1/2" OF THE OUTSIDE TRIM RING WILL SHOW, WHEN IN DOUBT, LEAVE A LITTLE ROOM AND YOU CAN HIT IT AGAIN WITH THE CUT OFF WHEEL TO STOP AT THE 5/8" MARK.
After new inner stainless ring is removed and discarded, I hit the outside edge of the remaining trim ring with the buffing wheel, and some polish before assembly.
(click to enlarge)
For an added measure of safety, and to prevent rattling, I bent a couple of gripper tabs straight, that I will then later pop rivet to the trim ring.
(click to enlarge)
When inserting the hubcap, I used some needle nose pliers and bent in the tabs and supporting ring on the hubcap since it is a very tight fit. Before you insert the hubcap, make sure that your hole is big enough in the trim ring to accept it because once you press the hubcap in, the grippers of the hubcap will lock on the edge of the trim ring and is very difficult to remove (that is a good thing once on the road). If you have to remove the hubcap you have to use a screwdriver from the back side to release the grippers.
Insert hubcap, then pop rivet (1/8"x 5/8" rivets) the straightened out grippers (I only did 2, since the regular hubcap grippers work so well.
(click to enlarge)
I feel I am helping out the auto industry, by improving inter-racial relations with my Chevy wheels and trim rings (but I do not want to show anyone more than 1")
Last edited by toddallen on Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:55 pm, edited 9 times in total.
- linc64
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Thanks for the info Todd!
Jim Ayres
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Recommendation on tire?
Todd, thanks for the information. This was very helpful to me as I am right now having to decide on new tires for my '63 convertible. My 950-14's are worn out. If I decide to convert to the 15", do you have a recommendation on a good priced whitewall tire that performs well under our car's weight?
1963 Lincoln Continental Convertible
Welcome Paul
There are lots of threads on tires here on the forum- here is a recent thread on tires, that I mention what I run:
http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb/vi ... ight=tires
Another Oregonian, how cool is that! How about some more pictures of your car? Is it turquoise? What color is the interior? How long have you had it?
There are lots of threads on tires here on the forum- here is a recent thread on tires, that I mention what I run:
http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb/vi ... ight=tires
Another Oregonian, how cool is that! How about some more pictures of your car? Is it turquoise? What color is the interior? How long have you had it?
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More about my '63
Todd, I found my car in summer 2003 in Grants Pass, OR. I was looking for a classic convertible for my family of six (+ foster kids or foreign exchange students or friends), and love that we can all ride together in it (we've had up to nine). I have to admit that I wasn't specifically looking for a Lincoln, but I am now a big fan! It is light baby blue with a hint of turquoise... very close to original color; repainted around 2000. Interior is tan, top is white. It looks great, but not too perfect that I would be uncomfortable taking kids around. Since purchase, I have had the trans rebuilt, retrofitted seat belts (none before), had work done on the top (still more to go), installed a stereo, tuneup/minor engine work, and showed it twice in the Medford Cruise. Thanks for the interest. I will post more pictures soon. I'm glad I found this forum. It's been very helpful.
1963 Lincoln Continental Convertible
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Rock in my hubcap
Ever heard of this one... one of my hubcaps sounds like it has a small rock in it. I hear it only at very slow speeds like in a parking lot. I took off the hubcap several times to find nothing. A few tire shops told me it's the hubcap itself stressing as it moves. My mechanic tried bending the tabs to make it tighter. No change. My wife likes it because it attracts more attention when she's parading through the mall parking lot.
Todd, I'm curious if your hubcap trim causes any such noises?
Todd, I'm curious if your hubcap trim causes any such noises?
1963 Lincoln Continental Convertible
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
I am resurrecting Todd Allen's helpful post for anyone running a Lincoln on 14 inch wheels. My fine bias ply 9.50 by 14 tires finally wore out and I carefully considered paying $200 each for this quaint obsolete technology, versus $58 for modern radials. I add my recent experience here in case you are considering a plus one conversion for your early Lincoln.
The junkyard has lots of Chevy steel wheels. I got a set from a 1983 GMC Van for $15 each. The first thing to do is mount it on the rear axle and spin it at idle to ensure it is both round and true. One of mine was not, so I ended up buying five wheels for a total cost of $75.
A set of new Chevy trim rings can be found on Ebay for about $34
I decided on the Kuhmo Solus KR21 XL whitewall tires since they are both inexpensive at $58 and come in the extra heavy duty XL 108T size rated at 2183 pounds per tire. So these are P235/75R15's from http://www.tirerack.com
The Chevy paint came off easily with stripper to expose bare metal. I powder coated and baked the wheels at 400 degrees F for ten minutes.
Here is the objective: fit each 14" Lincoln wheelcover inside a 15" Chevy trim ring.
So my total cost was
five Chevy steel wheels with 5x5 bolt pattern $75
four new chrome trim rings from Ebay $34
four Kuhmo whitewall tires from tirerack $274.64
Mount, balance and stems from NTB $56.32 (this came later)
$439.96 plus some labor... next post...
The junkyard has lots of Chevy steel wheels. I got a set from a 1983 GMC Van for $15 each. The first thing to do is mount it on the rear axle and spin it at idle to ensure it is both round and true. One of mine was not, so I ended up buying five wheels for a total cost of $75.
A set of new Chevy trim rings can be found on Ebay for about $34
I decided on the Kuhmo Solus KR21 XL whitewall tires since they are both inexpensive at $58 and come in the extra heavy duty XL 108T size rated at 2183 pounds per tire. So these are P235/75R15's from http://www.tirerack.com
The Chevy paint came off easily with stripper to expose bare metal. I powder coated and baked the wheels at 400 degrees F for ten minutes.
Here is the objective: fit each 14" Lincoln wheelcover inside a 15" Chevy trim ring.
So my total cost was
five Chevy steel wheels with 5x5 bolt pattern $75
four new chrome trim rings from Ebay $34
four Kuhmo whitewall tires from tirerack $274.64
Mount, balance and stems from NTB $56.32 (this came later)
$439.96 plus some labor... next post...
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Although Todd recommends an air cutoff tool, I discovered my Dremel with a 1.5 inch cutting disk did the job much faster and with a more accurate line:
I did not need to mark the circumference since there is a natural "detent" in the Chevy trim ring right where it should be cut. A swivel stool and the spare 5th wheel made a convenient cutting stand.
So below is the 14 inch wheelcover that fits into the cut trim ring to yield the final assembly at right. The covers fit quite snugly into the modified trim ring. I did not use any pop rivets or fasteners, as I doubt if this assembly will ever come apart. A large wood block and hammer was needed to press the cover into the ring. I also pre-bent the stainless tabs on the cover to make assembly easier.
Be sure to line up the valve stem holes in the ring and cover
A lot of chat was about lug centric versus hub centric mounts. Our Lincolns have hub centric wheels. So if this matters to you, wrap some 10 guage copper wire around the wheel hub, that will properly center the Chevy wheel. The hub serves to center the wheel and does not bear any weight once the nuts are snug. Pre-bend the copper wire around a can of spray paint, this gives it just enough bend so it will wrap snugly and stay put.
With the wheel on the car you can just see the copper wire filling the Chevy-Lincoln gap. On the front it was necessary to grind down the rivets on the aluminum drum. The Chevy wheels are much flatter than the OEM and will not clear these rivets.
As Todd correctly points out, the plus one conversion is barely noticeable on the car. These whitewalls still have the blue ship coating; I will leave them as narrow whites but see other posts for an easy way to change the width of the strip.
The test drive shows a noticeable improvement in road stability. I could do a four wheel lockup on my old bias plys, no so with these radials. I am happy with the result as the attractive '63 wheelcover is retained along with stock ride height and stance.
I did not need to mark the circumference since there is a natural "detent" in the Chevy trim ring right where it should be cut. A swivel stool and the spare 5th wheel made a convenient cutting stand.
So below is the 14 inch wheelcover that fits into the cut trim ring to yield the final assembly at right. The covers fit quite snugly into the modified trim ring. I did not use any pop rivets or fasteners, as I doubt if this assembly will ever come apart. A large wood block and hammer was needed to press the cover into the ring. I also pre-bent the stainless tabs on the cover to make assembly easier.
Be sure to line up the valve stem holes in the ring and cover
A lot of chat was about lug centric versus hub centric mounts. Our Lincolns have hub centric wheels. So if this matters to you, wrap some 10 guage copper wire around the wheel hub, that will properly center the Chevy wheel. The hub serves to center the wheel and does not bear any weight once the nuts are snug. Pre-bend the copper wire around a can of spray paint, this gives it just enough bend so it will wrap snugly and stay put.
With the wheel on the car you can just see the copper wire filling the Chevy-Lincoln gap. On the front it was necessary to grind down the rivets on the aluminum drum. The Chevy wheels are much flatter than the OEM and will not clear these rivets.
As Todd correctly points out, the plus one conversion is barely noticeable on the car. These whitewalls still have the blue ship coating; I will leave them as narrow whites but see other posts for an easy way to change the width of the strip.
The test drive shows a noticeable improvement in road stability. I could do a four wheel lockup on my old bias plys, no so with these radials. I am happy with the result as the attractive '63 wheelcover is retained along with stock ride height and stance.
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
You guys rock
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1960 LHD Lincoln Premier Coupe
1960 LHD Lincoln Premier Coupe
Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Nice job Autostick! I never noticed any issue with the front hubs, without the rivet heads ground down the wheel does not sit tight on the drum?
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Great mod-progress report!
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Can somebody here please let me know where i can get a set of those GMC trims
And what should i be paying for them, i dont have time to wait for an Ebay auction.
Thanks
Jim
And what should i be paying for them, i dont have time to wait for an Ebay auction.
Thanks
Jim
Black RHD 64 Lincoln Continental
1960 LHD Lincoln Premier Coupe
1960 LHD Lincoln Premier Coupe
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Re: Converting 14" hubcaps to use on 15" wheels
Well, the wheel could be tightened flat against the rivet heads, but then there would be an air gap behind the lug nuts; and that would reduce the load capacity and maybe lead to problems of even torque on all 5 nuts.toddallen wrote:Nice job Autostick! I never noticed any issue with the front hubs, without the rivet heads ground down the wheel does not sit tight on the drum?
Maybe your rivets are flatter; mine stuck out at least 1/4 inch like a small M&M candy. There are rivets at the 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00 o'clock positions, so it is possible to mount the wheel flat on top of the three rivets, or maybe dimple the wheel once torque is applied. Also, you may be lucky in having steel 5x5 wheels with a larger in-between bolt recesses than my GMC van wheels. On my setup, the new wheels could only tolerate about a 1/8 inch rivet between the lugs.
I ground down the rivets because that also opens the possibility of mounting any 5x5 chevy wheel; so I could consider custom mags or 22's for that plus 8 conversion that gets everyone stoked on this board. lol.
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