1967 Lincoln Continental stalling when warm

[endever]

I have a beautifully restored 1967 Lincoln Convertible that stalls when engine is hot
I've rebuilt the original fuel pump, rebuilt the carb, dropped the fuel tank and cleaned and replaced the fuel sending unit (all looked clean)
replaced the rubber fuel lines that connect the steel lines underneath the car.
Use only premium rec fuel
But it still stalls!! All of the heat shields and fuel line insulation is in proper place too.
Help!!!!????
Paul

[Lee]

It'll probably be vapor lock, but can you give us a little more detail? Like will it restart immediately after it stalls? How far do you need to drive before it happens? Is it more likely to happen on a hot day? If it won't restart immediately, how long do you have to wait? What area of the country are you in?

You said it was the original fuel pump, but they have often been replaced multiple times in a car's history...does yours have 3 ports?

[RMAENV]

[bd94s10]

Radiator could be nasty and clogged. This was part of the issue on my '64 when I fright got it running. Do you have the 3 port fuel pump? I realize you said "original fuel pump" however sometimes these cars end up with the 2 port which has 2 screws/bolts on top of the pump. The 3 port is a must!

[LithiumCobalt]

Do you have the correct spacer between the carb and intake?

[Dan Szwarc]

It’s likely vapor locking. Make sure your fan clutch is working well. It may not be pulling enough air.

[Dan Szwarc]

I want to see your engine bay to verify all is copacetic.

[endever]

All great questions let me get some pictures and answers
I have to figure out how to post photos too!!!!

[LC67Vert]

When this happened on my ‘67 it turned out to be a pin hole in one of the floats. When cold the engine would start fine and run well until about 10 minutes of driving, once the engine warmed up it would begin to stumble and stall because the carburetor was flooding the engine once the float filled up with gas. After the car sat a few days it would start right up and run well until it got to normal operating temperature when it would stumble and stall again. A carb rebuild with a new float fixed the problem.

[endever]

[endever]

I just started it. Started fine. Drove around my property everything normal. About 20 mins running went to drive again and it stalled. Wouldn’t start. Carb is getting plenty of gas and the fuel pump feels ice cold.
It’s 45 degrees out here in Michigan also
Let it set for 10 mins and started right up?

[endever]

Drove it around again. It falls on its face when you open the 4 barrels! Pops & backfires a bit. Run smooth when lightly accelerating

[Lee]

Nicely detailed engine. Looks pretty “copacetic” as Dan says.

The next time it stalls, remove the air cleaner lid and see if you can see squirts of gas from the accelerator pump when you move the throttle linkage. If you do, I’m going out on a limb and saying you have an ignition problem…check and see if you have spark. If you don’t, the float could be sticking, not allowing fuel into the bowl, or the fuel pump could have some issue.

There are some here who will try to convince you to swap the carb for an Edelbrock, if there is the slightest suggestion of a carburetor problem. Don’t listen to them.

Also make sure the choke flap is open when it dies. If it isn’t, that could be choking off the air (but you’d probably smell gas, and see black smoke). If these photos were taken with the engine hot, the flap is misadjusted rich.

Edit: the choke is still rattling around in my head. If the choke stove pipe (which should be insulated, BTW) is plugged, or hot air isn’t working to get the bimetal spring opening, then the engine would continue to load up, until the plugs were saturated. When you try to start it 10 minutes later, the radiated engine heat and heat from the heater hose where it runs next to the choke cap has time to open the flap so it will once again run. Check all that carefully.

[endever]

I had the air cleaner off the entire time I was driving it. And yes there is normal fuel squirting when I move the linkage.
I checked that myself prior also after it stalled.
When I try to restart it seems to be getting fuel but not proper spark? Hits & misses backfires thru carb
10 mins later starts up.

[endever]

The carb was rebuilt but not fine
Adjusted to car as yet. I don’t know how to
Do that.