1966 Lincoln Continental 2 door circuit breaker location

[qcable]

I am working on the electrical system of a 1966 Lincoln Continental 2 door coupe for my nephew. Can any one tell me where the circuit breakers are located? Battery was connected backwards and vehicle has multiple electrical problems

[TonyC]

Yes. The circuit-breaker cluster is the same for all models that year. It's on the firewall, in the cab side, about center-right, almost butted up against the HVAC plenum. It also has a screwed in plastic cover hiding it from sight. To access it, you need to remove the glove box, then remove the two screws that hold the cover in place. You will then see the cluster of breakers.

If you use a grounded test light, you should get fire at all but the left-most breaker with the key out. The left-most breaker is made hot by the key in ON or ACC position. I'm telling you this so you won't be quite so puzzled if they check out but the affected systems do not.

I suppose it depends on what kinds of electrical problems the car is having; neurosurgery is a very daunting venture when you don't know what you're doing. We here have faced them all, so we can help if some symptoms don't make sense.

---Tony

[Dan Szwarc]

The CB panel is visible up under the dash just right of the hump. It has a plastic flap over it. There’s no need to pull the glovebox. It’s somewhat accessible from below the dash.

[TonyC]

Not if that under-dash cardboard cover panel is still in place, it isn't. Either that or the glove box (or both if one chooses) has to come off just to see the C-B panel's plastic flap.

Incidentally, back to OP, you'll need a very short Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the glove box, and a 5/16" socket to remove the under-dash cover; the latter will have a loose piece of insulation that will fall out when you drop the cover, which is normal. Keep that insulation, and put it back in place when you button everything up.

---Tony

[qcable]

Thank both of you for that information. I am out of town right now but will check the described areas when I get back. I worked on USAF aircraft electronics systems for over 20 years but we had good tech data there. I have not been able to find a lot of ACCURATE electrical wiring diagrams for that Lincoln.
Thanks again. I will post my findings when I finally get that thing fixed.

[qcable]

I have another question regarding the power windows. I have read that there are 4 relays located behind the rear seat that control the up/down window movement. Do these relays control the front door windows as well as the rear side windows?

[Dan Szwarc]

Rear only. There are no front window relays.

[Dan Szwarc]

I am working on the electrical system of a 1966 Lincoln Continental 2 door coupe for my nephew. Can any one tell me where the circuit breakers are located? Battery was connected backwards and vehicle has multiple electrical problems.

Maybe it would be better if you asked about each specific system one by one. I have a 66 and know it pretty well.

First, do you have the full schematics, including the ones missing from the shop manual later published in Ford Service Bulletin Number 15, 22Dec1965?

If you don't, the SB was posted here in 2015: Re: 1966 Lincoln SB 15: Front & Rear Window Wiring Diagrams

Second, the "schematics" are more like wiring diagrams as its nigh impossible to determine electrical functionality without tracing circuits out or redrawing them. I have done a little of one, and got overwhelmed trying to the second.

Third, other than the radio, there's little to fail from reverse battery as there is little silicon electronics other than the radio and the blocking diodes in the rear window knife switches of convertibles (although I don't recommend testing this).

[Lee]

Dan, just thinking out loud, but couldn’t you cook the stator windings in the alternator? The diodes would then allow current to flow into them. Not sure what the resistance is, but I’d think it would at least get rather warm. I’ve never learned the hard way, just conjecturing…

[TonyC]

Well, Frankenstein, also a '66, underwent a massive electrical overload a long time ago, which was one of my big concerns when I committed to his revival from the dead. It was massive enough to blow out every bulb in the car, plus the tubes in the auto-dim amplifier and the electric core of the clock. Luckily, a new alternator and regulator, new bulbs, and swapping in of intact tubes from a donor amplifier revealed the electrical system to still be intact.

It's true the schematics aren't 100% accurate, because they do not really show the locations of components one needs to know about. That was something I worked on to remedy, with a homemade schematic showing the locations of relays in my car. However, with detailed studying, one can identify which relay is which (at least those in the engine bay and the trunk) just by tracing the wires by color-code, which the schematics do list. It isn't an easy task, but not impossible, either.

---Tony

[Dan Szwarc]

Dan, just thinking out loud, but couldn’t you cook the stator windings in the alternator? The diodes would then allow current to flow into them. Not sure what the resistance is, but I’d think it would at least get rather warm. I’ve never learned the hard way, just conjecturing…

Forgot about the alternator, but also the rectifying diodes there. But at least that's easy to diagnose and replace.

[qcable]

Thanks again for all your information.
The wiring diagrams that I have are the ones on the Lincoln Land wed site. Most are blurry and hard to read.
When I started working on my nephew's coupe nothing electrical worked on it. So far I have replaced the damaged alternator and regulator with a single wire alternator, headlight relay, headlight switch and dimmer switch. The charging system, starter and all lights work now. This vehicle was not operated for several years and sat in a carport.

The power windows do not work and the power seat does not work. I know that some of the door switches are bad/damaged and not by the battery terminal reversal. The front windows will work if the +12 volts and ground are jumpered to the plug on the motors themselves, although they go up and down very slow. I think the window mechanism is either damaged or the grease has hardened. I have not gotten to the rear windows problems yet.
When I get back to work on it I will post anything that I find. I will also check out those Ford diagrams.

[Dan Szwarc]

Check the window safety relay or jumper its connector.

The forum has good scans of manuals and stuff for 66 and we request a modest $20 donation for access as it helps us avoid all advertising (if you haven’t noticed). PM me if interested in supporting us. As always, our moral support, advice (good or bad) is free!

[qcable]

Dan Szwarc, thanks for that link to Ford's service bulletin. These diagrams are great and much clearer than the ones I have. Maybe I can unlock some of Ford's wiring system with these diagrams. I have already determined that the safety relay is bad and jumpered it. Auto Zone says they have a replacement relay, Duralast Relay 16130, for $19.99. I will get one of those when I return.

How do I make that $20 donation??

[LithiumCobalt]

qcable, my advice is to have the original window safety relay rebuilt. Lincoln Land can do it for you for about $50. Yeah, it's more than the $20 Chi-comm Duralast relay, but also better quality and likely to last forever.