61 convertible battery drain from pillar posts

[61droptop]

I have developed a very rapid battery drain that seems to involve both of the pillars. When I put a multimeter between the battery post and the disconnected negative cable, I get a 4 amp draw with the ignition off. Clearly this kills my battery pretty quickly. When I reconnect the battery there is a clear clicking noise (sounds like a relay) that can be heard from each pillar. Since both pillars make the noise, I doubt that a pillar relay went out on both sides at the same time. I figure it has to be something further upstream that controls both relays.

Both pillars make the clicking noise regardless if the doors are open or closed and all the windows and auto drop are functioning. Not sure where to start with this one. Any suggestions would be great.

[Dan Szwarc]

There is one OR two relays in each pillar. They get very corroded in that location. I think one is related to the window drop and hood function, and the other I think is related to the dome/interior lamp.

Stick a meter on the interior lamp and see if there’s current bleeding through it. If the current is low enough, the lamp won’t illuminate, but wasted current is still a draw on the battery.

Pulling the trim to get to those relays is fun, too. I recommend you try it if you like being punished for owning a Lincoln.

[mge825y]

61droptop - It's been awhile since I replaced the B-pillar relays in my '63 convertible. And, as Dan pointed out, it's a PIA to get to.

But to troubleshoot....If I recall, there's a plunger in both the rear door lock mechanisms that initiates the rear window auto-drop function when either rear door is open. I would wonder if you visually inspect the plunger for issues and, push it in and out manually to see if that changes the power draw or the relay clicking sounds you are hearing? I'm spit-balling here, but could it be a sticking B-Pillar relay plunger?

It's what I'd check before tearing out the trim to go deeper.

[mge825y]

61droptop - One more thing....If the B-pillar switch plungers aren't the issue, I'd look at the relays behind the rear seat next. These are part of the auto-drop circuit. Could be that one of these is stuck. Doesn't hurt to pull 'em out one by one. Mark them (and the mount plate) with a Sharpie as you go so you know where each goes when you put them back. It might be that just removing the offender will help reset it somehow. But while you're there, its always good to go ahead and clean the male blade connectors on each relay and the rubber shrouded female boot connectors.

Right Rear Window - MOTOR CURRENT LIMITER
Right Rear Window - REGULATOR CURRENT SENSOR
Right Rear Window - UP WINDOW
Right Rear Window - DOWN WINDOW
Left Rear Window - MOTOR CURRENT LIMITER
Left Rear Window - REGULATOR CURRENT SENSOR
Left Rear Window - UP WINDOW
Left Rear Window - DOWN WINDOW

Of course if you have doubts about whether a relay is bad or not, you can contact John Brewer and ship them to him to test. He also repairs ones that can be repaired and sells replacements when one can't be repaired. He does a good job.

[61droptop]

Thanks for the suggestions! Taking apart the pillar trim is exactly what I am trying to avoid! The switch plungers are new and engaging them does not change the clicking relay sound. I like the idea of exhausting the other possibilities before I dive into the pillar themselves! Fingers crossed!

[Dan Szwarc]

One relay is auto drop trigger. The other is dome lamp. Not sure which is which.

[mge825y]

The orange wires are for the auto-drop.