1949 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Sport 4dr Lucille

[tomo]

Building a wiring harness requires a lot more than knowing how to cut and strip wires, soldering on connectors and using zip ties to hold the wires in place.

If you insist on building your own harness, I suggest that you get the engineering diagram of the engine and dash wiring harness from the Ford Archives. That will give you the factory lengths and connectors.

If you buy a harness from Rhode Island, the lengths, wire gauge and connectors will al be the same as the factory harness.

[Lee]

Here are a couple of videos about the carburetor. as I work the linkage to its limits you'll see it does not move much as all. One video is from the side of the carburetor, the other is from the side of the firewall, the part that connects to the pedal. Its hard for me to get in there and see if any of the components are worn or seized because of how much real estate there is between me and that linkage even with the fenders off .. lol
Unless this vehicle is just that different, I would think there should be much more movement in that rod, the spring barely works at all.

Ivan, I knew I'd eventually find a diagram of your throttle linkage, and this has the adjustment procedure for the Hydramatic, though I can't really tell you much about the tools that are used.

[My_49_Lucille]

Ivan, I knew I'd eventually find a diagram of your throttle linkage, and this has the adjustment procedure for the Hydramatic, though I can't really tell you much about the tools that are used.

Bad Ass .. thank you very much for the info ...

If you insist on building your own harness, I suggest that you get the engineering diagram of the engine and dash wiring harness from the Ford Archives. That will give you the factory lengths and connectors.

If you buy a harness from Rhode Island, the lengths, wire gauge and connectors will al be the same as the factory harness.

I began working on inspecting the damaged wires that are just associated with the starting system today. What a cluster F!@k, they must have been giving away black electrical tape .. I'll get pictures up asap. Rather than challenge myself, your advice sounds a whole lot easier, especially if they respect the original specs. Thank you

[My_49_Lucille]

So as I mentioned above my goal for the day was to replace the starter solenoid and the battery cables to try and get the car to turn over again.

Well, looks like I will be rebuilding the starter as well. As I tried to remove the cable that runs to the starter, I was able to just tug and pull it clean off the starter post. The pictures show the starter post. Having a tap set, I decided to try and fix the screw by cutting new threads into it. While I managed to do so, their wasn't enough of the post left to allow the nut to hold under tightening. I am either going to remove the starter and try to replace the post, or begin researching new starters. Apparently Lucille is going to ut up a fight every step of the way.

The last picture shows my exhaust, to the right of the header and attached to it is a red piece. This piece rotates, not all the way around but rotates and returns to a resting position. What is this piece?

[Lee]

Ivan, those posts are easily replaceable. It’s just a stud that attaches to the heavy field windings. Here’s what it looks like for my Model A, but when you get it out, just search something like “starter motor terminal stud”, and you should find one that matches. Might be a good time to replace the brushes while you are in there, they’re still available thru NAPA.

The mystery part is your heat riser valve. They are basically a bimetal spring that closes a flap on that side of the exhaust when the engine is cold. When the flap closes, that forces the exhaust from that cylinder bank to cross over to the other bank through a passage in the intake manifold, and that helps the engine quickly begin to vaporize the gasoline. And they are notorious for sticking, due to carbon buildup in the exhaust.

They were widely used by GM and Mopar, Ford largely moved to a system that allowed a smaller amount of exhaust to cross-over full time. A lot of people nowadays will block them open, or remove them, or block the heat crossover passage on Ford, but they really do help an engine get up to speed faster on a brisk morning. They probably also reduce engine wear to a degree, since liquid gas droplets entering a cold cylinder and washing away what little ring lubrication there is, can’t be good in the long run.

[My_49_Lucille]

OK, like many of you I have dealer books on this vehicle, approximately 1000 pages worth of relevant info on this vehicle. I am going to begin to scan this beast page by page to my computer and to Google Drive.

My question is, "where else can I upload this to to make it available to anyone who needs it?"

I plan on organizing it in bite size sections so as to not make it one huge file in case you are looking for something in particular. While the manuals are complete, they have come apart over time and honestly there is no point in trying to get them bound only to have the pages fall apart over time.

So page by page I plan on scanning them and placing them in page protectors in order to keep the originals in a ring binder for live reference.

[My_49_Lucille]

Here are the reference pages I have related to the starter ..

[My_49_Lucille]

LOL .. Nothing stumps you guys, I love it. Well that valve moves freely at the moment, I'll just have to look to see if all the necessary parts are still attached. Now when I ordered the battery cables I ordered then based on the lengths listed in my manual. The battery cable segment that I am replacing which runs from the solenoid to the starter is much longer than the one that is actually in there currently. I am going to dive into my books to see if there are any pictures showing the pathway of that cable. There has to be a reason is it so long, or better said, longer than what is currently has which is not original. I'm sure part of it is keeping it off the header.

Thanks again ..

[My_49_Lucille]

With regards to my starter, from what I have read (my manual), the pictures I have seen (my manual), and what I have felt, there are only two bolts that hold the starter to the engine. That being said, I have removed the two bolts and the one that brackets to the oil pan and this bad boy will not budge. Does it need a bit of encouragement to break loose from a dead blow?

Thanks

[Lee]

The two bolts you refer to are the long bolts that run from the end plate to the converter housing?

[My_49_Lucille]

Well I would like to agree, but one was long and the other much shorter, not considering the bolt attaching it to the oil pan.

[Lee]

Ivan, to the best of my knowledge there should be two long bolts that run the length of the starter, and screw into the transmission housing (not counting the short support bracket bolt)

[My_49_Lucille]

I'll get pics up of what I removed sometime tomorrow ... I sure as hell hope that one of them wasn't broken or that I broke it trying to remove it. Although I do not recall any additional force that I had to apply to remove it.

[My_49_Lucille]

As I dig into my repair manuals I am noticing all kinds of tools used specifically for the Lincoln repairs. I know many are obsolete and can be replaced by modern versions, albeit crappy im sure, like everything else.
That being said is a resource other than hunting swap meets for the tools that pictured in these manuals? Some look very useful still for today's use.

As someone who is also knee deep in my own VW restoration, I often seek out the German tools that came with the VW or that were used in their servicing and these I often find at swap meets.

[My_49_Lucille]

OK here is what I removed from the starter. I see the long bolt, that is being referred to. Two of the bolts were the ones that were holding the starter to the oil pan, the last remaining bolt was "supposedly" from the starter. Considering I removed them but could not see it due to my position under the car, could I have pulled off another oil pan bolt instead? That would certainly explain why the starter is not budging.

Regardless, I will get a chance to jump under it this weekend to feel for more bolts and solve this ID10T mystery .. lol