Connie is kicking my a**

[TonyC]

(Disregard--my reading-comprehension skills are at an all-time low.)

---Tony

[Solid]

Also not ruling out timing chain jumping a tooth or 6.

Yeah, a whole row of bent intake valve rods with no damaged exhaust rods kind of says piston interference IE valve train timing issues to me. I'm sure it's possible to get several badly stuck intake valves and no stuck exhaust valves on the same bank, but I'd rather play the odds on that. Have you checked the other bank?

[danleblanc]

Also not ruling out timing chain jumping a tooth or 6.

Yeah, a whole row of bent intake valve rods with no damaged exhaust rods kind of says piston interference IE valve train timing issues to me. I'm sure it's possible to get several badly stuck intake valves and no stuck exhaust valves on the same bank, but I'd rather play the odds on that. Have you checked the other bank?

Yup. Pulled both valve covers. All 8 intake rods are bent, all 8 exhaust rods are fine. If I tap the valves with the blunt end of a punch and a hammer as suggested earlier, they're not stuck.

It's time either for another engine or to scrap the car

[Solid]

Time to pull the timing cover to see what happened, and then depending on how that looks, one or both of the heads so you can inspect the pistons. Maybe you'll get lucky and only need to fix the timing issue and replace rods to bring it back into operation.

For heads the intake has to come off and the valley pan has to come off. I recommend a friend for pulling the intake, that casting weighs a lot. I set a 2x12 cut to fit across the engine bay support diagonals. We lifted it up onto that and then shifted it laterally across the wood. Replacement lifters are not very expensive and a replacement timing set is not very expensive. I'm not sure about the price of rods but probably not insane. We get all caught up in doing extensive and complete rebuilds, but I bet you could remove the oil pan and then unhook a connecting rod to replace a piston or two with the block still in the car and it would run well enough when all was said and done.

[TonyC]

I agree with Solid--don't totally write off the engine yet. First you need to check and probably replace the timing components (definitely if the original nylon sprocket is still there--I'm guessing it is). Then, you need to pull the intake and heads off, to determine how much damage was actually done; most engines would need to be scrapped, but I'd be reluctant to trash the engine without first seeing how much damage exists internally (Lincoln engines are very resilient, even the 460s). As long as the pistons, block, and heads have no cracks, it can be fixed--damaged valves can be easily replaced once the heads are off. Even if a piston or two has damage, replacements for 460s can be had with relative ease--far easier than 462 pistons.

I didn't think the 460 was an interference-configuration engine (valves and pistons occupy the same space in the cylinders, just not at the same time), especially with yours being a low-compression variant.

---Tony

[danleblanc]

Maybe I'll buy one of those little camera affairs and peer into the spark plug holes and see what I can see.

As far as removing the intake goes, I do have an engine crane that would likely be useful for lifting it out. Then again, I could use it as an excuse to just pull the engine, regasket, paint, and do a thorough detailing of the engine bay.

[TonyC]

There's an idea--if you have the equipment, then go for it. As long as you have a shop manual to guide you on torque specs and and sequential torquing, you should be good to go.

---Tony

[danleblanc]

I haven't done anything with Connie yet. I was busy selling my Cadillac and buying another. So, while the Cadillac is waiting to come home, I thought I'd take the opportunity to show Connie some love.

I haven't done it yet, but I've decided to pull the intake manifold to retrieve the two lost push rods and put a new set in and see what happens. Rotor is pointing at #1 when I get the pop holding my finger over the plug hole. I've also been reading that the 460 is a non interference engine.

Parts arrived yesterday and while the boxes were undamaged, the intake/valley pan gasket has a wicked crease in it. A warranty replacement is on the way.

Out of the box, something doesn't look right. It's way too flat unless I'm missing something. Is this how it's supposed to be? Also, the intake gaskets seem to be pop riveted to the valley pan. Am I supposed to drill those out? Seems to me like they'd cause issues. It also came with rubber end seals that have nubs on them - are there holes in the block that these nubs fit into or do they have to be trimmed as well.

Remember, Fords are new to me - more accustomed to Cadillac engines. Advice is greatly appreciated.

[danleblanc]

Oh, and in case anyone is wondering, the replacement for the 70 deVille convertible is a 77 Fleetwood Brougham - ultra rare in triple black, with leather, and Astro Roof. Several of my Cadillac friends (a couple who have had over 100 Cadillacs over the last 40 years) say they have never seen another like it, and likely won't. So, I'm starting to believe they may be correct.

If photos are welcome and there's any interest, I'll share that too. The 77 Continental sure makes it look small when they're in the garage together Interior usable space seems about the same surprisingly.

[danleblanc]

Anybody?

[vashtsdaytona]

I think I can help some, I have 69 conti with 460. my gasket kit which came mosty from felpro and was relatively universal for the full range of 460s and 429. my intake gaskets were NOT attached to the valley pan. in fact my kit came with 2 valley pans, neither of which my motor had a matching one originally. there is a pan under my intake manifold, which was cleaned and reused. my kit had nothing for me in that regard. however it looks like your intake gasket is of the MLS style. mine were traditional. and yours is using that pan as one of the layers? if that is the case you would NOT want to drill out those rivets, but I also agree there isn't enough pitch to it.

to my knowledge the 460 is a non interference engine and agree with you there. if I am reading you correct you are concerned about getting #1 to TDC on compression stroke?

the rubber end seal nubs do have holes they go into in the block. and typically a little RTV is used in the corners where the rubber overlaps the gasket. it is possible the nubs can be too long, you would know when you try to pop them on. if so a small trim, but they are useful to keep them from moving while putting on the intake.

here are a couple pictures I have of mine, where you can see the original gaskets were standalone as well as my replacements. and you can see the original cork end gaskets and the modern rubbers.
but also the 460 had a really long run with more than a few revisions, so yours might be different than mine.

[danleblanc]

Thanks! Glad to hear of your experience.

I did pull the intake yesterday to retrieve the two pushrods that fell down into the valley. Upon removal, nothing seemed derogatory inside the engine. Quite clean, actually. I installed all 16 push rods (even though only 8 intake ones were bent), cleaned the old gasket material off the head and the block. Gave all the valves a good whack with a heavy hammer and punch. When I turned over the engine with the starter, everything seems to be moving freely and you can now tell the engine has compression - sounds completely different with the starter - more normal sound.

Man that intake is heavy. Thankfully I had an engine crane to pop it loose and lift it out of the engine bay. I was able to get it out without removing the distributor. I used a lift plate that bolts where the carburetor goes and used the rearmost hole to lift the rear of the intake, push it back toward the firewall and then lifted the rest of the way out of the engine bay.

I have an new problem now though. The bulbous shaped part that the air injection pump hose attaches to on the crossover pipes on the back of the heads has come apart. The threaded part is still on the pipe. I tried heating it cherry red to get that part off so I could get creative to reattach it but all it seemed to want to do was bend the pipe. I'll see if I can get creative with a little JB Weld to get it back together for now and address that part later. For now, I just want to see if it will run again.

The warranty replacement valley pan gasket set is supposed to be in on Wednesday, but, we leave for Hershey on Saturday so it may have to wait until we get back.

[action]

I have an new problem now though. The bulbous shaped part that the air injection pump hose attaches to on the crossover pipes on the back of the heads has come apart. The threaded part is still on the pipe. I tried heating it cherry red to get that part off so I could get creative to reattach it but all it seemed to want to do was bend the pipe.

The part you broke is the Thermactor check valve. I beleieve this part can be found fairly easily. Re-assembly may be problematic. You may have an exhaust leak after the repair. What ever you use to repair it will have to stand up to exhaust heat. Not sure if this is the correct one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Motorcraft ... SwGNNbVyGV

The pipe or tube is less common to find. Be careful with that to prevent damage if at all posible.

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[danleblanc]

Rockauto actually lists the crossover tube - it's less than $40CAD. Now that I know it's called a Thermactor check valve, I might have a chance of finding one. Thanks for that!

Starting and running is the focus right now. If I can get that, it will be new gas tank time, new water pump, belts, hoses, and all the other stuff to be roadworthy again.

[action]

Also called an Exhaust air supply check valve

Ford part # D4VY 9A487 A
Has LOTS of applications unlike the one on the Mark III.

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