Taking engine out of 1962

[Newchapters]

What the heck is this It hooks to the car frame to the transmission housing. I couldn't;t find the part anywhere

what is it looks like sway bar link

[Solid]

It's there to limit the motor and transmission rotation when the drivetrain is under transient load. The engine has a hell of a lot of mass up top with the giant heavy manifolds etc, so you would feel it moving on the mounts without a brace higher up. IIRC sway bar end link bushings fit on it but that was a while ago.

[norgale]

I've said it many times before and I'll say it again, buy a service manual for your car. Get the original version too not a reprint as they generally have lousy pictures. I have been reading this thread and every question that has been brought up would be answered in the service manual for your car. For one thing the "bolts" you see on the sides of your block are expansion plugs put in instead of regular freeze plugs. Freeze plugs and expansion plugs are the same thing. You should change every single one of these freeze plugs as long as you have the engine out of the car but use the solid brass plugs.. There are several on the bottom of the intake manifold too and several on the back of the block and the heads which require the removal of the transmission, torque converter and flywheel to get to if the engine is in the car. Do them now even if they are brand new. Look close as I think there are about 25 of them in all sorts of sizes. Also remove the tstats from the heads at the front of the engine. Just leave them off and it will be ok. Most of what your doing is common sense but one thing, grinding the valves and valve seats should be done at a competent shop. The seats in your 430 are a very special grind and if you do it wrong you may end up with no compression. Speaking of compression you should have 180 pounds in each cylinder. Less than 120 and the cylinder needs rebuilding. It'll still run but very poorly.
So please get yourself an ORIGINAL copy of the service manual from Ford so you can do these things correctly. They are always on ebay. You would do well to get a parts cross reference book too. They are made in Las Vegas somewhere and are invaluable for when you go to buy parts. There are things like your exhaust headers that are not interchangeable for one reason or another and this little book will save you a small fortune. Would have saved me about five grand had I looked at it before I started on my Lincoln. Pete

[norgale]

Incidentally your engine weighs about 900 pounds without the tranny. About 1100 with the tranny and you should block up the front of the engine while it's on the stand to take some of the weight off the stand post. Put a long 4x4 across the legs and then more blocks up to the bottom of the block. Much safer.

[norgale]

It's there to limit the motor and transmission rotation when the drivetrain is under transient load. The engine has a hell of a lot of mass up top with the giant heavy manifolds etc, so you would feel it moving on the mounts without a brace higher up. IIRC sway bar end link bushings fit on it but that was a while ago.

Yes, it's like a torsion bar to counter act the torque of the engine when you give it the gas.

[Newchapters]

Norgale I have the service repair manual and I dont see anything in there for the torsion bar and I haven't found it for sale on any of the usual suspects website. I would like to get the cross reference book for parts. I am in the process of finding someone to rebuild my engine and everyone of the places have said the engine kids for these are out outrageously priced high. 3500 to 4500 for a rebuilt. Solid I was thinking that it does look like a swaybar link and I will have another set that i could try. thanks for the information .

[John Cashman]

To rebuild a 430/462 these days and do it right it will be atleast 5 grand. That does not include R&R. BTW it's easier to install the engine and tranny AS A UNIT and complete. That's how they did it at the factory.

[Newchapters]

John with the prices being high and parts very hard to get I was thinking of swapping in a 460 as one builder told me would be better because there are so many parts available, easier to increase tongue and hp. the down fall is he said I would spend a lot of money making sure it fit, new transmission and it would really depreciate the value of the car but you could build a really nice engine for around the same price as a 430. I see all the upgrade kits out there, parts and I could have headers.

[Rick Crunelle]

I know you usually get what you pay for... but I took my engine (actually two 430's) to a recommended old-school local engine builder, and a complete rebuild was around $2,300. I probably saved some coin because I had two engines to pull parts and make one good engine, and they were able to reuse most of the internals. It's been a couple of years and around 10,000 miles and no problems...

[Newchapters]

Still going back and forth about engine. I think I am going to stick with my 430 and put money into thinks like a new wiring kit, disc brake and booster kit and all the other stuff the car could use. as I said I should of just left the engine in because it ran just fine but I had to check the timing gears. Lol

So I finally got some time and cleaned and painted the gas tank with por 15 and cleaned it with their cleaning and etching kit. I must say that stuff levels out very well. I wish I would of scrapped all the undercoating off the bottom before I painted it because the gas tank side facing up had no under coating on it and it looks so nice. the por 15 also hardens very nice. I already had the tank tested for leaks and cleaned inside.

I used this and the marine clean from por

Gas filer neck

top of gas tank.

underside of gas tank with undercoating on it.

[Newchapters]

Very impressed by all the people that make it look easy and fixing their cars so fast. Painted my engine bay and it was a pain in the ass because I can't move my car because I have not front steering or suspension on it and the port 15 wants you to was off prep products with water.Also it was the last warm almost 70 degrees days before cold weather coming in. After cleaning and etching with por products I painted with 2 coats of por 15. Looked great but when I painted the top coat of por 15 it looked like crap. I have a ton of brush marks and every imperfection shows. Any suggestion because I know por 15 is hard to get off. I might sand with 150 sand paper, 320 and repaint with some por 15 out of the car or should I go with eastwood 2k paint? I also used the por 15 patch for the battery tray until I can get the metal cut out and replaced.

por 15 mesh patch. paint looks like crap.

Looked good until I top coated it.

[Newchapters]

Working on car when i have time and right now I am moving form engine bay to front wheel wells so i can get my front end back on and new disc brake kit installed. Just got it. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get all the undercoating off. I have been using a heat gun and a scrapper and wire brush on a drill. Its pita. Also sending out more parts to be powder coated. Can the vacuum pods/balls be powder coated and where can you get bolt kits for these cars. thanks

found some rust behind splash shield

50 years of oil and crap

after removing undercoating. PITA

[Steve K]

Don't powder coat the vacuum reservoirs. I don't believe they can tolerate the heat required. I stripped mine to bare metal, first using a paint remover (instant gratification) and then acetone to get any remaining residue before smoothing them off with a sanding disk and painting with Rustoleum primer and paint. Because of their location, they are easy to clean up if you get things dirty under there. Mine doesn't get driven in weather or locations where it needs more protection than that.

[Newchapters]

Glad I asked because I was going to be taking them in this week with other parts. I think I saw a post about them and I wonder if it was yours. thanks

[Newchapters]

This is a PITA with a cold garage with small heater and trying to get 50 years of crap is a slow process..After cleaning with por cleaner and metal pop and After 2 coats of por 15 and 1st top coat of por 15 it started to fisheye. I had to resand with a a 220 grit clean and repaint but no matter what it still had some bubbles. Also the service was so hard to get straight because of all the imperfections in th mental . I have read a lot of the threads about undercoating and most people say not to do it but I feel the paint might chip with no undercoating. Even though it looks nice I was wondering what you guys think of this product or just go with nothing at all or maybe just something on the top fender.
Also a couple more question 1) where do you guys recommend getting new bolts because Is hard to find some of the body bolts
2) does the plenum chamber come out and how does it come out. I couldn't find the bolts that hold it in. . thanks

plenum chamber/ heater core housing

worth stone guard spray

2 por 15 and por 15 top coat

upper wheel well where I am thinking putting undercoating