1976 Mark IV aluminum deep dish wheels on a slabside

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 1:10 pm

Are these 15x6 5x5 bolt pattern and does anyone know backspace? I'm still hunting for wheels. I like the dish look of these and a local yard has some advertised, but just as 15" aluminum wheels with no other specs. Thanks.

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:34 am

Nevermind. I found info. 15x6, 5x5 w/ 4" backspace

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:12 am

OK. I have decided to buy these from the salvage yard for $350 for all 4 wheels with center caps and screws. Is this a reasonable price or inflated? I just didn't know if I should try and haggle or not. I'm going to go with 1 1/2" or 2" white wall on 235/75R-15's.
I spoke with Ken Steven's since he is running 1976 -15x6 steel wheels on his 1961 sedan. He stated he had no issues with backspace clearance or any other problems using the late 70's wheel.
I like the smooth look of these and the fact that they still look classy like a wheel cover. I'll post up some pics when it's all done. My tire guy is checking into the tires at his cost, so hopefully the rubber will only be at or around $600-$650 vs. $800+ from Coker direct.
What are opinions on this combo? Are these wheels just too 70's ish to look good on a slabside? I think they will look great, but that's just me.

suburban_gorilla · Post by **suburban_gorilla** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 12:24 pm

I think the wheels will look good.

I have the 14" radials on my car now but I am considering 15" turbines for my 62 the next time I have to replace my tires (or sooner if I can get them for a good price). I was told by someone at Baker's that the 70s Lincoln wheels should be a direct fit for 60s cars. I may get ripped for this but I love turbine wheels and think authentic Lincoln wheels will look good. Its going to be a shame to give up my really nice 14" wheel covers, but the price of the tires is a huge problem.

Go for it and post some pics!

Steve K · Post by **Steve K** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:15 pm

For the uninformed, what is the "backspace"? I assume the 5x5 is the bolt pattern so I get that. I have been looking for some wheels also, but was under the impression I had to use some older GM truck wheels. Is that only if I want to use the original hubcaps (with or without the modifications to fit a larger rim)? My plan is to use the factory steel wheels and caps for show but would like to have something that looks good on long trips. Sounds like something like these could work?

This is for the 64 Continental.

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:22 pm

To find wheel backspace, lay a straight edge flat across the backside flange of the wheel and then measure from the inner wheel mating surface (where wheel and hub meet flush) to the straight edge. IDK what stock wheels are. (maybe 3.5"- 3.75"??) If there is too much backspacing, the inner wheel may make contact with the upper ball joint. I think 4" is maximum that one could go without modifications.

Chad, also as stated, I'm sure one could use late 70's Lincoln steel wheels, too. Just make sure they are 5x5 bolt pattern. I dont know if you could do the trim ring/original wheel cover conversion with these though, as I dont know if the trim ring will mate to Lincoln wheels, which is why GM wheels are often used.

Steve K · Post by **Steve K** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:53 pm

Suicidekid63 wrote:To find wheel backspace, lay a straight edge flat across the backside flange of the wheel and then measure from the inner wheel mating surface (where wheel and hub meet flush) to the straight edge. IDK what stock wheels are. (maybe 3.5"- 3.75"??) If there is too much backspacing, the inner wheel may make contact with the upper ball joint. I think 4" is maximum that one could go without modifications.

Chad, also as stated, I'm sure one could use late 70's Lincoln steel wheels, too. Just make sure they are 5x5 bolt pattern. I dont know if you could do the trim ring/original wheel cover conversion with these though, as I dont know if the trim ring will mate to Lincoln wheels, which is why GM wheels are often used.

I'll have to find one to try. Even with the stock wheels there is less than 1/4 inch between the tire and the spindle on the front so if the backspace is another 1/4 inch, I think it would rub.

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:31 pm

Yeah, I am not 100% sure 4" BS will fit. I was just going on the basis that 70's steel wheels fit on slabsides. I am going to pull out my spare tonight and see what the stock 14" rims are and then I will most likely test fit one of the forged wheels. If they do not fit, I may get them anyways and just try and sell them here on the forum or eBay.

update: I checked my stock 14" spare and it shows 4" BS. Hope I'm good to go! *fingers crossed*

JonW · Post by **JonW** » Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:07 pm

Looking forward to pics. Those are some of the best looking OEM wheels ever.

Heavymetal · Post by **Heavymetal** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:28 pm

I paid $200 for a set of wheels which were in about 7 outta 10 condition.I already had some nice caps.I feel I paid too much but didn't want to wait for something nicer to come along. I guess $350 depends on their condition and how hard they are to find in your area?

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:01 am

Heavymetal wrote:I paid $200 for a set of wheels which were in about 7 outta 10 condition.I already had some nice caps.I feel I paid too much but didn't want to wait for something nicer to come along. I guess $350 depends on their condition and how hard they are to find in your area?

Cool. I guess $350 with all caps for nice drivers, is reasonable. I dont know about scarcity, as I haven't really searched anywhere for these. They just kind of found me. I hope to have them in my possesion by next week sometime and I'm gonna try and polish them up a little bit because they have been outside on a car, but still look nice.
I have a Mother's Powerball with polish, but was wondering what other cleaners work well on aluminum wheels for the main first stage of cleaning and not polishing. Any suggestions welcome!
The wheels also need the black ring re-painted. I just tape that off and hit it with a black spray can, though.

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:10 pm

OK, guys. I went and picked up the wheels today, but am having issues. The studs aren't protruding enough to get any nut on them or not safely, anyways. The hub bore of the deep dish is plenty big enough, so I am wondering if it is a drum rivet issue?
I know nothing about brakes, so I wanted to ask first. Can I pull the drum without innards flying everywhere?

Secondly, is it OK to grind these rivets and if so, what is their purpose anyways? Would the rivet heads prevent the wheel from going on by 1/2" or more? The back of the Mark wheels are completely flat and the stock ones have small recess, as you can see in the photo of the stock wheel.
Can anyone who has done this, please chime in?
Please look at photos and let me know what you think. I really want these wheels to work. lol

stock wheel

deep dish wheel

stock wheel

deep dish wheel

hub with scribe mark where deep dish wheel outer surface stops vs. stock wheel
(it's hard to see but the deep dish scribe is on the radius part of the hub and the faint line of the stock wheel is visible just past the main center hub part. Approx 1/2" to 5/8" difference)

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:27 am

I test fit a wheel on the rear of the car, this morning. It fit great. I need to get different style lugnuts, but even with the OEM type, it tightened down to where the stud was flush with the end of the lugnut. I didn't tighten it 100% because I didnt want to cut into the wheel surface. I think acorn type will allow it to fully tighten all the way.
I looked over the 1961MM and it didn't show anything about the drum itself. I'm assuming the drum will just pull off exposing the brake components. I did see it stated to not get any grease on the lining. I'm still going to wait for a word from here before going any further with the fronts and just get to polishing. ugh....

Suicidekid63 · Post by **Suicidekid63** » Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:21 am

Can anyone answer on the drum removal and if I can just pull the drum off without any problems with the brake internals? I want to try and tackle the rivet issue this week. Thanks!!

Also, any advise related from ANYONE who has had to do this, will be much appreciated. I'm guessing I can just grind them flush with the drum surface, but still leaving enough profile to keep secured whatever they are holding on the backside of the drum or grind them all the way and stake what is left?

I've also heard Marvel Mystery Oil is good for cleaning up oxidation. Can anyone recommend anything else, that has worked for them?

I found these pix online of rivet removal. It states to first back off the shoes with a star wheel. ???

Any procedure help here, please?
I guess the rivets just hold the drum to hub as one unit.

Heavymetal · Post by **Heavymetal** » Mon Sep 23, 2013 9:37 am

The star wheel is on that threaded rod you see at the very bottom of the last pic.(between the linings) It allows you to adjust the shoes to the drum.You can access it thru that slot in the drum with a flat tool.Or a slot on the backing plate as well.If your linings are worn you probably don't need to back it off to remove your drum.