Brake parts -- save some green

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Brake parts -- save some green

Postby jaydee » Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:17 pm

Recently, I've undertaken much mechanical work on my '66's myself and have gleaned a few bits of information that might save you some money.

This thread is primarily to point out that certain brake parts are readily available at your local independent auto parts store and exactly match those of the usual suspects, but at much lower price points. Because our old Lincolns aren't always listed in store catalogues, we might make the assumption parts are only available from specialists.

Here are some parts numbers followed by local price, then suspect price.

Front brake hoses for 1966: Wagner BH64845 or F64845 $13.99 vs. $34.95
Rear brake hose for 1964-1969: Wagner BH108296 or F108296 $22.39 vs. $59.95

Dual master cylinder conversion:

I had the local store exactly match the casting numbers and location of each port. This fits 1965-1966.
To order, use AIP #10-1394 $27.39 + $8.00 core vs. $169.95

For those inclined to do their own cutting, bending, and double flaring of steel brake line, a 25 ft roll will do the entire car for $13.49.
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby ReijerLincoln » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:38 am

:smt023
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby Dan Szwarc » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:39 am

Awesome work, John!
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby OldManBabyBody » Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:47 pm

STRONG!
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby jaydee » Sat Dec 29, 2007 10:20 pm

I should mention that the brake hoses and master cylinder were matched exactly from replacement pieces sent to me by the suspects.

As most of you know, brake hoses have round metal ends and you have to flatten one side with a grinder in order for them to slide into the car's retainer brackets.

Also, the rear brake hose configuration is not exactly factory and requires you to purchase a 1" hex head bolt 5/16-18 and a split lock washer to fasten it to the axle housing. Original body bolt is a little short for the new hose. The suspects provide you with the 1" bolt, but it's readily available from your local hardware store. I buy stainless steel.

Finally, the new dual master cylinder is sourced from Cardone, according to my auto parts store. The savings on that item is breathtaking.

John
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby tom7 » Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:38 am

here is napa's # for front brake hoses

#365549 cost me $8.97 i do not pay full list on parts, i own a repair shop.
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby Loco » Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:47 pm

thanks!
that was perfect timing, that is my next step on the car. Question on the dual master. If i go to my local auto parts store what is it exactly that i am looking for as far as the part number goes? or application? thanks again!
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby Dan Szwarc » Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:07 pm

jaydee wrote:Front brake hoses for 1966: Wagner BH64845 or F64845 $13.99 vs. $34.95
Rear brake hose for 1964-1969: Wagner BH108296 or F108296 $22.39 vs. $59.95

Dual master cylinder conversion:

I had the local store exactly match the casting numbers and location of each port. This fits 1965-1966.
To order, use AIP #10-1394 $27.39 + $8.00 core vs. $169.95

For those inclined to do their own cutting, bending, and double flaring of steel brake line, a 25 ft roll will do the entire car for $13.49.

John, do you have any pics of the master cylinder? Are you saying it will "bolt up" to the 65 and 66 brake lines if there is an original MC still installed? Impressive.

You should get a medal for this work. How about eight?
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby jaydee » Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:39 pm

Okay, kids, I've taken some pics of the replacement dual master cylinder and will send them to someone on the forum who is able to post. With luck, they'll follow soon.

According to the destructions, this will simply bolt on for a '66. All you have to do is change two brake lines which I'll describe in a moment.

For 1961-1965, the suspects suggest you may have to cut 1/4" of brake rod protruding from the booster. The rod simply slides out of the booster. Looks like you remove the threaded screw from the end pointing towards the front of the car, make the cut, then reinsert the threaded rod.

In either case, they remind us to make sure the big O-ring is in place on the booster end of the reservoir.

Besides the new dual reservoir (note part number previously mentioned for ordering), you'll need to pick up two, 12" lengths of 3/16" steel brake line with flared ends and nuts. The forthcoming photo shows them to be pre-bent, but you can easily bend your own. Just make sure not to kink it!

Here's where the new lines connect:

1. The smaller reservoir will operate the rear brakes. From the small reservoir (outlet is on the bottom), run the new 12" line to the proportioning valve located on the left (driver's) inner fender. Attach this line to the front of the valve -- i.e. the opening towards the front of the car. The rear seat goes to the rear brakes, as evidenced by its route of travel.

2. The larger reservoir operates the front brakes. From the larger reservoir (opening on the side of the master cylinder), run the other new 12" line to the top of the metering valve. That's the valve located straight below the master cylinder. You'll see a line coming out the bottom of the metering valve traveling downward which goes to the front brakes.

A couple time-saving hints:

1. You need to bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the lines. This can easily be done in a vise on your workbench. Wrap the master cylinder in a rag, so it won't get scratched. Use a simple bleeder kit.

2. I pre-paint the master cylinder's exterior with cast coat iron spray paint. Otherwise, it will rust like the dickens.

3. Pre-position the master cylinder and new brake lines. Remove the master and, while you have some space to work the flare wrench, tighten the fittings at the metering and proportioning valves. Then install the master and tighten the upper fittings.

While you're at it, why not change out the rubber brake hoses and go to silicone brake fluid and be done with it.
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby Gerald F. Chase » Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:00 pm

Has the issue of silicone fluid "eating" the seals in the "screw-in" type of brake light switches
been resolved? I used to read of considerable instances of this.


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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby toddallen » Sun Feb 17, 2008 10:20 pm

I have not heard of that one. The original brake fluid is far more corrosive than silicone, silicone is practically inert.

Even if it was, the brake switch is probably THE cheapest part on the car- a whopping $3.21 at rock auto 8)
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby linc64 » Sun Feb 17, 2008 10:50 pm

Here is a discussion of brake fluid on the Imperial web site.
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Brakes/brakefluid.htm
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby autostick » Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:19 am

There's postings all over the internet on the silicone versus DOT4 debate. I do not want to launch this here. I will point out that I continue to run DOT4 / DOT3 brake fluid, NOT silicone, because silicone is immiscible with water. So if any water gets into the system, it will turn to steam under high brake heat conditions. Although such heat is unlikely with drum brakes, more likely is that the water will puddle and corrode the lines from within. The reason regular brake fluid absorbs moisture like a sponge is to prevent both of these very serious conditions (steam and rust). New cars and race cars continue to use hydroscopic fluids and not silicone.

I plan to keep my Lincoln for a very long time, so I want fluid that protects my lines from within. Chat with the usual suspects or do your own search on the net and decide based on your intended use.
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby esox » Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:17 pm

Man parts are cheaper when you know what to look for. Thanx to this thread I saved some $s. Never saw where the pictures are posted but after removing my master cylinder I can see what you are talking about fairly easily.
Thanx!! my 66 LCC loves her new stopping power!
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Re: Brake parts -- save some green

Postby Linc68 » Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:45 pm

hurray for search function!...my next adventure! :smt004
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