My Ongoing 1968 LC Project

[brendanw]

I'm at a complete dead end now..any additional tips is very much appreciated.

Argh, frustrating just to read this! Seems so simple but in fact is a little perplexing. I too had trouble with mine, but it was more of a seal issue with fuel coming out around the gasket seal. Mike Casella at Then and Now was a real help.

I still have to believe in the possibility that it's some sort of vacuum / vent issue that's preventing the pump from drawing fuel. If the mechanical side of the pump is engaged properly (the 'finger' off the pump is correct on install), then that should be pretty bullet proof. With the pump off the car, can you drive the 'finger' off the pump up and down and draw fuel? I cant recall how much load and mechanical advantage is needed to actually pump it. Try that to see what happens.

I have an electric boost pump on my plane, but also a standard mechanical fuel pump similar to an auto engine. The electric is really for redundancy in the case of the plane, but an electric pump should pressurize the line and induce flow just fine in the Lincoln. Heck, probably better given how far it is from the tank to the carb. Worth a shot.

Anyway, good luck man and report back once you find the gremlin!

[Steve K]

I don't think you can install the pump incorrectly. It just isn't going to bolt up if anything isn't right. You mentioned the rod. You should be able to determine how high the tip of the rod reaches as it rides the curve of the eccentric that drives it. Turn the engine over by hand or by bumping the starter and make sure the rod is coming up far enough to engage the fuel pump mechanism. I can't imagine that thing is so worn the rod is not moving up enough to activate the pump but that's almost one of the only possibilities unless all of these pumps are somehow bad...also not likely. Maybe try to measure the maximum height of the rod before it begins to drop down again. Where is the top end of the rod when you are installing the pump? Do you have to put in one of the bolts and then pivot the pump down to force it into position for the second bolt? If you do that would indicate the pump lever is riding on top of the rod. If the rod is going up and down as the engine turns over then it has to be operating the pump.

How high is your temporary gas tank and what distance is it from the fuel pump? Do you have a filter on the hose you are using for a fuel line? I don't mean the filter on the fuel pump, I mean the supply hose in the temporary fuel tank. If you do, is it installed correctly? As you able to syphon gas through the hose with the filter or sock on? You are sure there is no obstruction in the supply line? Same on the filter leading out to the carb (the one the screws into the pump). No way that filter is installed backwards or is blocked?

If you assume the pumps are good, then either the rod that activates the pump isn't moving up and down enough to run the pump or there is a blockage somewhere too solid for the pump to overcome. I don't see what else it could be.

edited additional comment: I don't think you can manually drive the mechanics of the fuel pump with it off the car The spring that drives the lever down on the down stroke is much too strong to move it by hand and I think you would stand to damage the pump by clamping up some sort of lever to it to give you enough leverage to check it out manually.

[Lincoln22]

Alright. So finally got her running. I installed a new fuel pump pushrod from the top end side of the timing cover. I don't have the time involved to remove the complete front assembly ( winter project). So none of the new fuel pumps worked at all. I installed my old pump which is still an aftermarket pump and it worked but there is plenty of air bubbles in my see through fuel filter. So I checked my fuel line from the filter to the tank & its solid, I even did a test run between the pump and a fuel container on the side and it still shows a lot of air bubbles in the filter. I know some is fine but this is a lot! so I think the pump is creating this air suction so I removed the pump and compared it to the new ones and noticed my old one doesn't have the spring on the rocker arm of the fuel pump. So I placed one on & put the pump on the car & now doesn't run. I remove the spring & it runs. So at this point sounds like the eccentric has worn down, correct?

Now how bad of an issue is it to run the pump without the spring? The car has been like this always but I didn't even give any notice of it till now. Several years driving during the summer except this past year since I tore her down for the paint & suspension make over.

Should I run it without the spring for the meantime till winter comes or run an electric fuel pump for the time being?

[Steve K]

My thought is, that until you can verify a problem with the eccentric and the operation of the mechanical fuel pump, I would use an electric fuel pump. Study the threads to make sure you get one with the right pressure limits and ideally a passive shut off system in the event the engine stops as in an accident or something. You don't want the fuel pump to keep pumping gas when the engine dies. I have absolutely nothing in terms of expertise to say this, but if somehow your old pump is pumping a lot of air, there is no use continuing to mess with that. Is the gas coming through with the old pump and the air bubbles coming from the tank in the car or from you temporary auxillary tank? You could be getting air from the syphoning effect if the gas if flowing from a can that is higher than the pump.

You definitely have a mystery going on. I have not heard of anything wearing off the pump eccentric enough to cause the pump to fail. There are a ton of guys with more knowledge than I have on this. I have never even seen the internal components that drive the push rod on the pump so I don't know how they wear against moving parts.

Anyway, with an inexpensive electric pump you can get the car running good, you can use it until you get the time and inclination to tear it all down and fix it.

Mount the pump near to the tank and run rubber gas hose either all the way to the carb under the car or, if you know the steel fuel lines are intact and open, you could connect the electric pump to the factory fuel line back by the tank.

Good luck. Let us know how things go. I for one am interested in how this could happen and what it takes to fix it. Sure would be nice to know the engine is running good once it gets a normal supply of gas. I still believe your underlying problem the fuel pump all inclusive of the push rod that drives it.

[Linc68]

Well hi all! been around lurking, having fun with my Lincoln, got about 2,000 miles on it, been to a few shows, funny how people stop by the car, even when its sitting between cars 40+ years newer or hot rods.

Been meaning to come back, but the usual gets in the way, obviously have some catch up reading to do, I am in need of some wisdom, I need an axle for the passenger side, yes i have the unicorn-like 9 3/8 rear, all stock, 31 splines, 31 inches.
I am downright scared to go to the usual suspects just yet, wondering if anyone has any current info on a vendor.

I hope everyone is well, and hopefully this winter is finally over this week!

Norm

[Dan Szwarc]

I have a 67 convertible with the rear end you seek. It might Even be limited slip.

However, I am In detroit. And the axle is still attached to the body by the leafs.

[Linc68]

Thanks Dan, I just need the axle, how much snow is the car buried under ?

[Dan Szwarc]

Snow? In Michigan? We get 60 degree days in February, now!

Actually, about 2 inches now and 1-3 more coming tonight.

Are you interested in the whole differential housing or just and axle from one or both sides (easily extractable after removing backing plates)?

[Linc68]

Just stopping by as I got a new computer and was transferring all my Lincoln info over, saw my old links and thought I would stop by and hope everyone is well
My 68 still running strong
Norm

[Dan Szwarc]

We’re still here but not many are left. Nearly went extinct in 2022 due to incompetent hosting, but managed to stay alive.

[jtheye]

We’re still here but not many are left. Nearly went extinct in 2022 due to incompetent hosting, but managed to stay alive.

Those of us left is all that matters........

[Linc68]

Updated: new upper control arms installed, quite the difference, quieted down the front end significantly, and of course...,luckily..., it helped identify a bad inner tie rod, so that's next...LOL



Updated: Bakers/oldccarclearance on Ebay had them, should be here next week

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256428358112


Those of us left is all that matters........ so true
at least a lot of the historical posts and knowledge are still here, need to dig into those upper control arm bushings, looks like the outer ones on the shaft disintegrated over time, so they upper arm will slide fore and aft.. I know Bakers is gone except for ebay is the usual suspects section pretty up to date?
Thanks