Engine Bay Restoration: A Beginner's Journey

[Dan Szwarc]

Don't forget to take that thing back for a refund.

Oh, and never buy tools requiring strength from HF.

[scottandstephanie]

Help!!!!!!!!

Steering boxes are apparently difficult to remove. I've everything disconnected (I think) but I cannot get
the input shaft to slide free of the flex coupling-



In the book (which presumes you are dropping the box out the bottom of the car) it says leave the last bolt in until
you've supported the weight. Seems to suggest it should just slide down (out? whatever).

So whats the deal? When I tug on it the flex coupling seems to want to come with it. I don't want to yank
too hard. Not that I can, there's about an inch of travel.

Any ideas?

[scottandstephanie]

Never mind.

[Barry Wolk]

I'm really impressed Scott. This was not a small undertaking.

How are they planning on taking the paint off of your car? I've been chemically stripping mine and it it time consuming, but very satisfying. Kind of like cutting the grass. Mindless, but so satisfying.

[Dan Szwarc]

The coupling bolts must be completely removed to get the coupler off. Of course, you know that, now.

[scottandstephanie]

Barry, thanks. This was the toughest part so far. A little patience and ingenuity paid off.
I thinks the body guy is going to media blast but I'm not sure what he'll do to prepare for it. I've
heard of a few people now that advocate stripping. I'll do it myself with some of the bigger painted
parts that are staying with me for the winter.

Dan, two coupler bolts??? I just took off the one that sits in the input shaft groove.....was there another one?
The coupler is still on the steering shaft. I don't plan on doing anything with it.....unless you convince me it should
be repaired/replaced.

Before I finished up for the night, my stepson and I hoisted the car as far as I can get it. The transmission pull is
next. I got a few of the linkages off as part of the steering box removal. Its dirtier than a sewer down there; can't even make out the profiles of many parts/fasteners.

Oh, I picked up the new steering box from Advanced Auto. Its a Lares rebuild and came with the insulators already attached. Not bad for $200.00. Hope it's not a piece of s#*t.

I'll post some pics this week. Thanks for all the encouragement

[Dan Szwarc]

You will want to inspect the coupler on the steering wheel shaft. Or at least clean it.

[dug]

I'm impressed.With the mechanical ability and also with the new hat. Looks kind of familiar.

[ckanderson]

after looking at the picture why not replace the rag joint? its got quite a few miles on itm, and the last thing you would want is to put everything back together and it fail.

Ebay for the best price. and dont worry about the quality, I have one right in front of me.

[autostick]

after looking at the picture why not replace the rag joint? its got quite a few miles on it, and the last thing you would want is to put everything back together and it fail.

Good advice. Rag joint, new or reconditioned steering donuts (shock isolators) and a new center link are in order since these parts affect each other's steering performance. Check all the bushings, idler arm and tie rod ends for play as well, there should be none. Good luck.

[ReijerLincoln]

Sound advice indeed. If the steering box donuts were shot this will have caused wear & tear on the center drag link.

Scott, perhaps this can help you over the threshold:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21501&hilit=beginners+guide
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23459

[scottandstephanie]

Thanks all. Guess I'll need to look at it closer.

Ok, I need help with the transmission removal. I read Dan's site but I'm confused on:

-how to remove bell cranks from the housing (x2, correct?). Linkages are no prob (cotter pins, retainers, etc) but I don't know how much force I can/should be putting on these. Looks like they have internal seals (nylon sleeves sort of?). Remember, no motor so the tranny is not in its intended position. Should I jack it around or away?
-Parking brake; how much disassembly is needed? I assume this it the two-cable apparatus that spans the length of the drive train?
-Drive shaft; there are four bolts holding the yoke together, right? Once removed, I'll push it into the tranny shaft to clear the yoke, drop, then pull back out, yes?
-Cooler lines can remain attached, right? They're hugging the bell housing so I don't see a clearance problem
-What else is there to remove on either side? I don't want to start lowering and bring something down with it.

I'm reading the manual but it refers to parts and operations that I don't understand

Friend John is coming over tonight so I'll have some help. This'll be the last major disassembly before I clean/grind. I'm about one week behind schedule.

[Dan Szwarc]

Thanks all. Guess I'll need to look at it closer.

Ok, I need help with the transmission removal. I read Dan's site but I'm confused on:

-how to remove bell cranks from the housing (x2, correct?). Linkages are no prob (cotter pins, retainers, etc) but I don't know how much force I can/should be putting on these. Looks like they have internal seals (nylon sleeves sort of?).

Slide the bellcrank shaft to one side or the other (it will only go one way). It should slide enough to pivot it off the ball-end mount. Gently remove being careful not to lose the internal spring or the nylon bushings (which may stay on the ball-ends).

Remember, no motor so the tranny is not in its intended position. Should I jack it around or away?

You may need to raise it a little.

-Parking brake; how much disassembly is needed? I assume this it the two-cable apparatus that spans the length of the drive train?

Remove the nut on the long-ass threaded shaft and take the assembly apart. Take pics before. You will need to clean the threads with a wire grinding brush.

-Drive shaft; there are four bolts holding the yoke together, right? Once removed, I'll push it into the tranny shaft to clear the yoke, drop, then pull back out, yes?

Two bolts hold the driveshaft to the tranny yoke. Do not let the yoke come out of the trans. Use a 6-point box wrench to remove the bolts. Do not let it round the edges of the bolt heads.

-Cooler lines can remain attached, right? They're hugging the bell housing so I don't see a clearance problem
-What else is there to remove on either side? I don't want to start lowering and bring something down with it.

If you tranny was ever serviced, the lines might have compression joint couplers installed. You can disconnect them there. If you can get the lines out of the car without disconnecting them from the trans, do it. Note which one goes where.

I'm reading the manual but it refers to parts and operations that I don't understand

Friend John is coming over tonight so I'll have some help. This'll be the last major disassembly before I clean/grind. I'm about one week behind schedule.

Good luck!

[scottandstephanie]

The transmission is out! When we jacked up the tranny the bell cranks fell away. The hardest part was systematically lowering to the garage floor. We had gravity on our side. I don't know how the hell I'm going to put it back in.....that's another day.

Here's some pics:

The car had to go way up



Somewhere down there is my friend John disconnecting stuff



Soon it'll be off to my cousin Dave's shop to spend the winter getting pampered

[Barry Wolk]

Transmission jack. You can rent them.

Wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier to put the engine and trans back as a unit?