dwell, timing, and rpm on a 462

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:10 am

Okay, I know my dwell is okay, but I need to redo my timing properly.

If I decide to set my timing at say 7 (compensating a little for todays fuel), what is the correct procedure?

The MM says to disconnect the vacuum line, and operate engine at specified idle - then rotate dist accordingly. What gear am I doing this in? If it is drive, then idle should be 450, if it neutral, then idle should be 1600 - but that seems very high.

Eddie Hudson · Post by **Eddie Hudson** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 4:23 am

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Okay, now you are confusing me! When I set the timing I can either be in PARK/NEUTRAL or DRIVE.

Its obvious now that I need to set the timing at a low RPM with vacuum adv disconnected - and DRIVE provides the lowest RPM. If I set the timing in NEUTRAL, my RPM will be at least 1000 - 1200, causing centrifugal advance. Is there some other way of getting RPM done low in NEUTRAL for initial timing? Theoretically I could compensate for the centrifugal advance, and time accordingly, however I doubt that my distributor's centrifugal adv. characteristics are still calibrated as the manual indicates.

One other thing.... Timing effects RPM right? What causes RPM to increase, advancing or retarding?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

ALL your adjustments are made with the car in neutral or park. The timing is set with the vacuum disconnected and plugged. The RPM is set higher in neutral and then CHECKED by placing the car in gear with your foot on the brake. Then you adjust it in neutral (or park) and check it in drive again untill you get it right.
If you advance the timing the engine will speed up.
I don't have the specs for your engine handy but the DWELL on V8 cars is usually 26 - 30. It sounds like you are confused [img]images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img] and are confusing some of the board members too [img]images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img]
Good Luck

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 5:47 am

Eddie,

The 462 with transistorized ignition has a dwell setting between 22 and 24.

Dee · Post by **Dee** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 9:48 am

You can reset the idle speed low( 450 rpm) while in park or neutral to adjust the timing ,then raise the idle speed for the correct idle speed in drive ( 450 rpm.)If this is too much fiddling for you, you can set the whole works while the car is in drive. The whole point here is to get the dwell and timing set first then adjust the carb for idle speed and smoothness. I hope we're not confusing you. Good luck.

ARCTICPLUMBER · Post by **ARCTICPLUMBER** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:03 pm

A 600 idelbrock carb is too small for your motor. Idelelbrook recommended I put a 750 cmf on my 462. I did and it works fine. Save yourself the trouble and go into Idelbrocks web site. It will guide you to the place for sizing your carb, or you can ask them directly through their site.

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:39 pm

Edelbrock probably wants to sell the bigger carb!

The stock Carter carb is 600 CFM - so I don't see why there would be any problem.

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 4:51 pm

Update:

I had to replace my vacuum advance as it was leaking (and not advancing either).

Made some initial settings in order to get the engine to turn over and run.

The odd thing is that my vacuum advance is causing my dwell to change by about 8 degress.

With the vacuum line disconnected and plugged, I set dwell to 28 and set timing accordingly (8 BTDC).

Then when I connected the vacuum line and started the engine, my dwell fell to 20, and my timing was reading around 25 BTDC at 1150 RPM in PARK.

Does any of this make sense?

Vitas · Post by **Vitas** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 4:58 pm

Did you turn the allen screw on the vacuum advance the number of times listed in the instructions?

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 5:53 pm

No.

The vacuum advance unit didn't come with any instructions. I got it from pep boys. It does have the allen screw inside. Its probably not calibrated at all.

Tomorrow morning, I'll check its setting. Should it be 4.25 CCW turns outward as you stated in your previous post? Or does it depend on the brand/mfg?

Thanks
John

Vitas · Post by **Vitas** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 2:21 pm

John,

How did you make out?

I don't know if it depends on the brand/mfg.
I doubt it matters.

I assume that when you replaced the coil and distributer you used the ones correct for a car with transistor ignition?

Did you go over the procedures outlined in the TRANSISTOR IGNITION SYSTEM -
DESCRIPTION AND TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS service bulletin(s) I posted yesterday?

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 3:57 pm

Vitas,

Where did you post this TSB on trans ign? I would be interested in reading it.

I did a few things today. For starters, I am using an Accel Universal coil, according to the manual there is no difference in coils between conventional and transistor ignition. I calibrated the vacuum advance to 4.25 CCW turns and also cleaned up the inside of the distributor. My breaker plate had alot of play in it (UP/DOWN movements), after cleaning/adusting/bending, everything is good. My dwell also remains the same with or without vacuum.

However, I am still back to square one. Timing is set to 7 BTDC @650 RPM, in DRIVE, vacuum plugged, engine HOT, and car runs good, but after a few minutes of driving I get severe run-on.

My thoughts... I have noticed that after my car warms up, I CANNOT get the DRIVE idle RPM down to 550 (manual spec). It is at 680-700. No matter what I do with the fuel/air screws on the carb, RPM only moves 10 or 15 points. Also, if I let the car idle in PARK for 15 minutes, I get no run-on at shutoff. But if I drive it for 3 minutes, Bam!, tons of runon. I am thinking that maybe my carb is shot, while driving it could be leaking excess fuel into cylinder, causing the runon. The runon continues for a few secs then shots a black sooty liquid through the carb.

It looks to be the original carb, so I think I will go ahead and either rebuild or replace.

Thanks.

Vitas · Post by **Vitas** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 7:14 pm

1966 TRANSISTOR IGNITION SYSTEM -
DESCRIPTION AND TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
http://www.michiganlcoc.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=000438
Admin Dead link above

3rd post down.

essenz · Post by **essenz** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 7:31 pm

Argh!!!

Transistorized ignition does have a different coil with completely different specs.

This car is driving me nuts!!! The transistorized system wont allow me to use a breakless kit, now I can't get a replacement coil, Steve at Bakers said he has only seen 3 Cont's over the years with this type of ignition, where does it end.

Maybe I should rewire for conventional, then install a breakerless kit (Mallory or Unilite).

dmcpartlan · Post by **dmcpartlan** » Wed Dec 27, 2023 2:42 pm

Hi - thanks for all the details, question, would an electronic fuel pump disrupt timing?

Post by **Dan Szwarc** » Wed Dec 27, 2023 3:50 pm

dmcpartlan wrote: ↑Wed Dec 27, 2023 2:42 pm Hi - thanks for all the details, question, would an electronic fuel pump disrupt timing?

No.

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