cant get pistons in on my 1962 430

[62rincoln]

the ring compressor I purchased wont work....HELP!

[sgt art]

I'm going to ASSume that you've never done this before, if this is not the case, my apologies for too much info, but maybe someone else will benefit from it.

1. Lube the cylinder walls with clean motor oil.

2. Dip the piston with rings into a bowl or can with clean motor oil so as to lube the rings and piston skirts. Let the excess drip off.

3. Place your ring compressor around the pistons (some of these have a locking tab that snugly hold the rings in the grooves and keep the compressor on the piston. Place the upper rod bearing in place in the rod and lube the outside of it only (the part that comes into contact with the crank NOT the backside).

4. Place a 12 inch piece of fuel line or similar hose over the rod bolts so they don't booger up the crankshaft.

5. Place piston and rod into the cylinder making sure the piston is positioned correctly, most have some type of making to have oriented to the front of the engine.

6. Push downward with your hand until the deck of the engine block comes into contact with the ring compressor. Then GENTLY with a rubber mallet go around the circumfrence of the ring compressor (it should be above the top of the piston) so that all of the lower side is in contact with the engine block deck. This is important because if it ain't, the ring pops out and stops you. I once mangled an oil control ring this way.

7. Holding the compressor so it's flat on top of the block, gently tap the top of the piston with the handle of the mallet (the rubber handles are best for this, but wood is okay). tapping the top of the piston holding the ring compressor to the engine deck, it should gradually slid into the bore. I am also assuming you tested the pistons without rings in each bore prior to all of this and that they fit.

8. It helps to have someone watching the lower end of the engine as the rod comes down the bore. He/she can guide the rod onto the crank although the fuel line will pretty much do that for you.

9. Once in place, attach and torque the rod cap and then make sure you have the correct "crush". Most use Plastigauge. If correct, retorque and then hand crank the engine to see if it turns smoothly without too much effort. Note, as you add more pistons, it gets harder to turn.

That should do the trick. The biggest problem is if the compressor isn't hard up against the deck and allows an oil control ring (the real skinny ones) to slip out and stop you.

[62rincoln]

We tried all of the things you mentioned(except the fuel line trick, I just used my fingers) the prob I had was unlike the chevy small blocks I am used to the cylinders do not come all the way to the top of the block. What I mean is that the small 1 inch or so part of the cylinders above where the piston would run up and down kept catching my rings. The rings would pass from the ring compressor and open right before going into the cylinder. I appriciate all the help prioviously offered.

[action]

Have the cylinders been machined?

And has the top of each cylinder been chamfered? Or is there an angle cut into the top of the cylinder and block surface?

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[62rincoln]

the motor only has 10,001 orig miles, so I just honed the cylinders, but yes they are cut at an angle at the top.

[KULTULZ]

He is describing the ten degree deck surface cut on the MEL. There were once special installers but that was long ago.

You need to find a ring compressor with an extended skirt to get the rings past the deck.

[action]

The compressor needs to be tight!

The ring may move out at the edge when you are moving the pistons down. Keep the compressor absolutely tight and the bottom edge of the compressor in touch with the deck at all times. And the piston should slide in. You want to apply enough force to move the piston down the hole, and not too much so as to break a piston land should a ring catch. (Material between the rings)

As suggested above use a mallet to tap the top of the piston down. Or a wooden handle on the top of the piston and a tap on the top of the handle. That may require two people. The fuel line is a very good suggestion. It will prevent damage to the cylinder and the crank journal.

Again the compressor clamped around the piston tightly is the key.

>>>>>>>>Action

[action]

He is describing the ten degree deck surface cut on the MEL. There were once special installers but that was long ago.

You need to find a ring compressor with an extended skirt to get the rings past the deck.

K,

Gotta pic of that cut?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[62rincoln]

is there anywhere to buy those installers now

[toddallen]

This may sound a little simplistic, but why could you not just cut a piece of sheet metal flashing as "lining" for the ring compressor that sticks out just a shade in order to cover the chamfer so the rings do not expand at the last minute?

(Obviously taking all burrs off the bottom edge of the sheet metal)

[KULTULZ]

He is describing the ten degree deck surface cut on the MEL. There were once special installers but that was long ago.

You need to find a ring compressor with an extended skirt to get the rings past the deck.

K,

Gotta pic of that cut?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

It is shown regarding assembly in the shop manual. Because of the ten degree decking (deck not parallel to crankshaft centerline), a regular tool will rarely work. You need to find one that the sleeve will extend a little further into the bore to allow the rings to slip by.

[KULTULZ]

If you can't find a deep skirted compressor, you may have to go to something like -this-.

Do you see how the deck surface is canted causing the installation problem?

[John T]

The installation of pistons in a 430/462 is not as easy as engines with the cylinders perpendicular to the top of the block. I had the same problem on a 430 with a .030" overbore. The ring compressor would not work but since the rings enter the bore at an angle.
You can start the rings by hand and very carefully push the rings into the pistons and gradually push the piston into the bore. There is usually only one ring watch closely as you push it into the piston and GENTLY tap the piston into the bore.

I was successful using this approach although it was time consuming there no problems and the assembled engine runs great. Try this on a cylinder when you have plenty of time and can fully focus on what you are doing as it is tricky but possible.

Have fun

John T.

[62rincoln]

thanks again for all the advise guys
I found and old timer with a shop that has the original tool for installing these pistons, I think I am just going to pay him to pop them in and finish the build from that point.