1965 Lincoln - Sitting for 37 years-Gas Tank & Fuel Line Questions

[Micholas]

Hi everyone I’m new to the group and I bought a 1965 Lincoln that was sitting in a field in the high desert of Idaho back in 2019. The car has been sitting covered in my driveway since then. My engine was seized and I tried for almost a year to free it then I gave up. This weekend I finally found a running Mel 430 close to me a picked it up to put in my car. So now I am planning on getting my car to move and I have questions regarding the best method of cleaning the gas tank and changing the fuel lines that run up the side of the car. What procedure have others used to clean the fuel tank and regarding the fuel lines can I change them to PTFE hoses?
Here is a picture of my car as it sat in the field and now in my driveway
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[Dan Szwarc]

If the fuel tank is rusty inside, you’ll need to de-rust it and possibly have it sealed internally. There are many tank sealer products out there, but I’ve used POR-15 brand.

The same applies to derusting. This involved dropping the tank and following the products instructions for application, agitation, soak time and flushing. Some day to use a fine metal chain inside to act as a scraping inducer with the rust removal. To do this by hand is a nightmare. It’s really easier to replace the whole tank.

Replacing all the rusty metal lines along the underside is pretty straightforward as far as buying lines, slicing them, and bending them to fit. InlineTube.com may offer a fuel line kit.

[1Bad55Chevy]

Another option for the gas tank is finding a real radiator shop and having them clean/seal the tank. In 2024 old school radiator shops are becoming difficult to find.

Any particular reason for the PTFE hose? Fuel injection system? Or a big hp motor that's needs a big fuel line?

Is this going to be a resto car or something heavily modified?

[Lee]

What procedure have others used to clean the fuel tank

Welcome. That depends on whether it is still in good (non-leaking) condition. If it it leaks, you can try the POR-15 that Dan mentioned. When I restored my Model A, it wasn't leaking, but had a lot of internal surface rust. I could have used something like muriatic acid, which would eliminate the rust, but is so strong, it could have possibly created leaks in the process. I chose phosphoric acid, which doesn't actually remove the rust, but neutralizes it into black, hard ferric phosphate, which isn't further affected by any moisture picked up from the air or absorbed by the ethanol in the gas. And it works quickly.

[TonyC]

Welcome to the fam!

Been there myself with Frankenstein. I too endorse looking up a radiator shop that can clean out the tank. Difficulty of that will depend on where you live. I was able to get a replacement tank cleaned out in San Antonio in 2005 or '06, and back then it cost me only about $40-ish.

Of course, to get that done you need to get the tank out. That is tricky without a lift, as it's vertically placed between the rear axle and the trunk's forward wall. But focus on getting it out first. When you do, examine it, especially along the bottom. If it's perforated with pinholes, be prepared to shop for a replacement tank. If there are no holes, you're lucky; then you can take it to the shop that can clean it out. I mentioned this because that was the case with my original-original tank. I had to pull one off an organ donor, which luckily was still intact, however varnished inside.

Oh...on a side note, I wouldn't trash the old MEL so quickly, even though you may have a working one to swap. I do say swap the working one in, yes...but to do the swap you'll have to unseize the old one. You see, there are not just those bolts holding it and the transmission together; there are four nuts that hold the transmission's torque converter to the engine's flywheel, and to get them off you have to be able to turn the crankshaft. You might have to partially disassemble the engine at the front and remove the large camshaft gear and timing chain to isolate the crankshaft. Then, with treatment to the rings with Marvel Mystery Oil or diesel fuel in the spark-plug holes, that should make it easier to unseize the shaft. Once that can turn, then you can remove the torque-converter nuts and effectively free the engine from the transmission. I mean, others will say you can just yank out the engine with the converter still attached, but there is a risk of damage to the transmission...and that transmission is not the type just any shop can fix.

After you get the old one out, consider making it a side project to rebuild it. If the block is not cracked, it's salvageable; and you may make a little bread by selling it afterward.

---Tony

[Micholas]

Another option for the gas tank is finding a real radiator shop and having them clean/seal the tank. In 2024 old school radiator shops are becoming difficult to find.

Any particular reason for the PTFE hose? Fuel injection system? Or a big hp motor that's needs a big fuel line?

Is this going to be a resto car or something heavily modified?

The car eventually will be a resto mod- I have an LQ4 out of a 2005 Hummer- I know I’m probably going to get bashed about putting an LS engine into a ford- that is the reason for the PTFE hose- I plan on fuel injection-

[1Bad55Chevy]

If that's the plan what's the point of installing the MEL in it?

Not to be to nosey here but what's the budget for this build? Without seeing more pictures I would guess LS swap with interior and paint $100k if you added bags, big brakes, vintage air, powder coating etc I would call it $150-$200k depending on how much of the work you can do yourself. It ends up being cheaper to buy one of these cars already set up like that opposed to building it.

From my experience building cars... if it needs paint you will be to upside down in it to ever come close to recovering your money. On the flip side if you don't paint it they are nearly impossible to sell for what you have in them.

[Lee]

Suddenly, an LS swap doesn’t seem so offensive now.

[TonyC]

Yeah; Hummer engines had worse fuel economy than MELs, not to mention other problems. It'll still be five figures of "merchandise" to do even a Chevy swap when one runs into the structural chopping and the chain reaction of additional swaps that'll inevitably come up. Sure, if someone has a "merchandise" income source to generate the money and a just-because mentality, it can be done; but it's a Quixotic delusion to do it on a budget.

Besides, the structural compromising will make the car impractical transpo. How many of those conversions are really rolled on interstates at illegal speeds, anyway?

On the other hand...

---Tony

[1Bad55Chevy]

Yeah; Hummer engines had worse fuel economy than MELs, not to mention other problems. It'll still be five figures of "merchandise" to do even a Chevy swap when one runs into the structural chopping and the chain reaction of additional swaps that'll inevitably come up. Sure, if someone has a "merchandise" income source to generate the money and a just-because mentality, it can be done; but it's a Quixotic delusion to do it on a budget.

Besides, the structural compromising will make the car impractical transpo. How many of those conversions are really rolled on interstates at illegal speeds, anyway?

On the other hand...

---Tony

The LQ4 is a 6.0l LS engine commonly found in the 2500 series trucks backed up by the 4l80e. The Hummer engines you are talking about are pre GM. The Hummers of the 90s had either the 5.7 GM gas engine or the 6.2l non turbo diesel GM engine backed up by the TH400 GM trans same as the M998. Not an expert on the history of the Hummer but I do know the later production ones had the turbo 6.2l backed by the 4l80e same as the M1151. Once GM acquired Hummer they made a handful of Apha models (I believed they were called this) that had the Duramax and Allison trans. Unfortunately GM killed the real Hummer and just expanded their SUV lineup of vehicles built on the half ton truck chassis.

[Micholas]

Morning guys- first off the 65 Lincoln I purchased was an impulse buy. My son & I fell in love with the car. I’m a union steamfitter in NYC - and never had the time to invest or spend time with a hobby- My only interest in life is Guitars/music & Cars-
I was always a Chevy guy we own a 1982 Camaro Z28 -all original except we swapped out the 305 cross fire for an 5.7-L98-it was my older brothers car he bought back in 1986 second hand- sat under a carport in Queens since 1996 we got it in 2019.
So my son and I grew fond of Lincoln’s after a 95 year old man I met years ago who was moving back to Germany gave my son and I a 1998 Lincoln Continental- it was the first time I drove a big American boat and it felt like I was driving in a big plush recliner-floating on air !!! Then we started to look at old Lincoln’s and fell I love with Suicide door Lincoln’s. I was crazy for buying this car without someone checking it out first - impulse buyer!!! But I feel I. Love with the car and wanted to bring it back to life!!!
Anyway- I’ve been hunting and learning and collecting parts and ideas for this car and it’s not about the money, and the reason why I’m putting the 430 in the car is because my son and I have decided that we want to get the car rolling and put it back to original so that we can “LEARN” about the car the way it was built 50+ years ago. After that it’s going to be a resto hot rod- we are doing the work on the car ourselves it’s just going to be a fun cruising car that makes us smile!!!! The LQ4 engine I have is out of an 2005 H2 hummer - I bought 3 years because it sounded like the bearings were going and I talked the guy into giving me the engine and harness for $250.(great deal for LQ4.) I am going to eventually rebuild it and I picked up the Devious Customs LS swap kit from a friend for cheap!! Anyway I’m rambling on.
The whole point of here is our 65 is like our learning tool and what is the best way to learn - this Lincoln we have is all original there is no rust underneath and it’s very easy to put back together- my son is going to be 16 and he tells me Dad I’m going to have the Lincoln forever!!!! So the money I spend over time and the time I spend learning and fixing then changing things after my son and I learn how it originally worked and how can we make it better. We are even going to paint the car the original paint color(Ivy Gold/ Persian Gold) it seems the car sitting out in the high desert for 35 years fades the paint alot - the original color is still pretty good in the door jams and in the engine bay, then after we paint it my son and I are going to use the Lincoln to learn how to wrap cars!!!
3 years ago I bought a 1965 Lincoln Convertible that sat in a back yard on Long Island(I live on LI) for 30 years for $300. just learning how to dig that car out of that yard was a process- trees growing around it, sunk in the ground- took me a week to dig it out and get it to roll. It took me a year to take parts off that car and I cut the whole car up with a Sawzall - but I also learned alot about the structure of these cars- and got a lot of parts 65 spindles & disc brakes - convertible windows and tracks - (b pillar delete). So now I have parts to sell to you guys that don’t have disc brakes or want to do B pillar delete. Well anyway I hope I don’t get kicked out of this forum - I’ll keep trying to post or read and learn from you other guys who have been there done that.
I’ve been following Lincoln groups on FB and reading about these cars- I picked up the MEL 430 for $500 with the transmission it was only 100 miles away - I always look for the past 4 years for a running Mel in my area and this year it finally happened. It’s going to feel good just to pull the seized original engine out and put a running engine in the car!!!!!!

[Mike]

It sounds like a fun project. Engine swaps and other work don't have to cost a lot if you're not on a time constraint and doing most of the work yourself and hunting down parts as you go as you've been doing.

If you think a 98 Continental is a boat you should try driving a Town Car or an older car lol

[TonyC]

Well, okay; maybe Hummer did make improvements to their engines, though too late to save the division. I did see issues in 2005 with the "CE" light coming on for various reasons, but nothing requiring core surgery or outright replacement.

Dittos Mike's comment; if '98 Continental models are "boats," then the '60s models are dreadnoughts. I say to every person who calls Frankenstein a "boat" (which grinds my gears just because of its over-clichéd overuse, like "suicide doors"), "That's no 'boat'; that's a battleship."

So, Micholas, you do have some knowledge of these cars, most notably in the structural construction. That is in fact more than many newbies to clap-door Lincolns know. It is quite an adventure learning about these cars, because these are not Fords, despite the parent company that sold them. A good 94% of those cars of that year was exclusive, meaning no other Ford products shared parts with them. The closest relative was the Thunderbird of that year, but even then there were incompatible differences in part details. So remember, everything you learn about yours is above your typical Ford. And, despite the sibling status with Cadillac, they are not GMs by any stretch of the imagination.

---Tony

[bd94s10]

If your tank is too far gone or develops holes upon trying to clean it, you do have this option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333528049969?f ... R5DOooPNYw

Above is a link to a new gas tank via eBay. I'm guessing the fuel sender will be bad. I've pulled them before from tanks that have been sitting 10-15 years and they are usually NASTY! Get a new one from Lincoln Land. I'd then do new fuel lines from the back to the front - not bad overall. Fuel pump can be rebuilt and my friend Tony usually have them in stock. Give him a call. 727-243-7354. Once you have new fuel lines, a nice clear working fuel pump and a new or refurb'd gas tank you should be good.. then you'll prob need the carb rebuilt or an Edelbrock 1406 is a good replacement for the stock Carter.

Good luck! You got this!!