Anything that pertains only to a convertible goes here. Such as: Top material, pads, mechanism, hydraulic pumps, switch and relay mechanisms, latches, etc.
1Bad55Chevy wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2023 10:17 pm
I really like this car.. color, stance, everything.
What's the ultimate goal with it?
My immediate goal is to make it reliable and keep it as original as possible. Its a real cruiser. I recently did a 100 mile trip and it ran beautifully, engine and trans are strong. After the trip I put cardboard under it to see if I had any leaks. It was dry to my astonishment. I'm not doing a lowering kit or anything like that. Although I might update the wheels maybe?
This one might be my forever car!
1Bad55Chevy wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2023 10:17 pm
I really like this car.. color, stance, everything.
What's the ultimate goal with it?
My immediate goal is to make it reliable and keep it as original as possible. Its a real cruiser. I recently did a 100 mile trip and it ran beautifully, engine and trans are strong. After the trip I put cardboard under it to see if I had any leaks. It was dry to my astonishment. I'm not doing a lowering kit or anything like that. Although I might update the wheels maybe?
Pics are right before I had it shipped. I was super dusty from sitting in a barn. No bodywork or bondo, but will need a paint refresh once I satisfied with everything else. This one might be my forever car!
That's the same colour as my parts sedan, I bought it for the interior, but sadly, it's too dried out to be usable. It's a shade we don't see much, it will look pretty good once it's polished up.
Help diagnosing top issues...Ok. Removed the seats and accessed to the two relays for emergency entry into the trunk per the JC video. Relay 1 unlocked the trunk as expected. And relay 2 did not raise the deck. See video. I think my hydraulic motor is toast. I am interested in what you think the problem might be.
If you bypassed the relays and the deck pump did not run at all, the pump is probably bad.
It's time to gently force open the deck to get to the pump. With the trunk unlocked, lift and prop the trunk open more and more until you can detach the hydraulic cylinders from the deck.
My inclination is to replace all of the hydraulic pumps and lines, and top and rear deck solenoid valve while I'm in there. That way the most important mechanical parts are in new condition. Then I can see what relays need attention.
I just received my late Christmas gift today which was the Lincoln Land Hydraulic Combo Kit, hoses kit and solenoid valve for my top. Now, with certainty, I will know that all my pumps are good. I will obviously have to bleed the system etc. Any advice on the most efficient way to do this would be appreciated. Thanks!
Personally, I bleed it with the cylinders disconnected on one end, just run them in and out a few times to get most air out, a little left is fine, it will work it's way out with use. They will not run together, one will fill, then the other, this is fine. Just my opinion, but with everything new, I would fill with ATF, not brake fluid.
Check that they are free before installing, I got one once that was defective right out of the box.
I made progress yesterday with the replacement of the two deck lid hydraulic pumps and lines and the main pump and solenoid valve. The top has definitely been serviced in the past. There a couple of replacement relays installed. I also learned the car had mice. Although there appears to be no damage to circuitry.
After replacing the all that the deck did raise under its own power once. Then it went back to not raising. I guessing its because I need to add more ATF fluid and bleed the system. I will complete that today after I replace the top hydraulic pumps.
I intend to do redo the trunk area once I get the top functioning reliably.
Those replacement relays could be too light for the amperage, but there are others on this site with actual credentials in that, so listen to them.
What are your plans for the old pump? mine is missing, and I wouldn't mind getting a used one and test the system with the old brake fluid, before doing a full switch like you're doing.
ok...I got the top pumps switched out and put all the lines back where they were. I then came back a couple hours and tried to operate the top. I wasn't sure if I primed and blead the pump well enough. After a couple of tries and filling the port whole on the pump the top went up and the deck flap unfolded. And that was all. The top did not unlatch or try and open. And then the top would not go down-urggg. I then pulled it forward a bit and then it went down. This happened twice. I let it up again and unscrewed the fill port and I heard a little air come out.
It seems like air is trapped everywhere and preventing the deck lid from closing as it should.
Do I need to bleed the lines at the pumps or will the air work its way out. Then I think I may have some relay issues...
