What topics should be in this forum?

This forum is a place for topics that are found to be commonly asked by new members who are unable to find the answers to questions that have been asked and answered in the past.

Moderator: Dan Szwarc

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66Lincoupe
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by 66Lincoupe »

Dan Szwarc wrote:Note: I don't want suggestions. i want links to existing topics I can put in this forum. I don't have time to search and find them. If you see a topic that is common, post a link to it here. When I put a shadow link to it, I will update your message showing it as completed.
Dan, you have Barry's switch run-through, here's the 66-67:

http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... dow+switch

Admin: Yup. Click here to see the posts that are stickied:
http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... m.php?f=50
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by LithiumCobalt »

This one is a bit important, I think: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... &hilit=oil

DSz: Stickied!
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Dan,

Here is another thread that I found very helpful when trying to indentify the fender relays in the engine compartment. I asked NickG to restore the image that is broken.

http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... 50#p214550
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by autostick »

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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Nick
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by Dan Szwarc »

Done. It's also a sticky in the Wanted forum itself.
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by Castrosua »

16InA68 wrote:How about a "What's wrong with Lincoln?" or "Why isn't Lincoln on top anymore?" or "Why do new cars suck so much compared to old cars?" topic. It should have infinite post capacity and be hidden far from public view.
Yes, that can be nice! And fun. I miss posting here.

Maybe we can have a get to know who thread, where we just talk, BS, complain, or share achievements....

I personally am sick of the Lincoln crown on social media. Bunch of posers and morons. (hashtag not all lol), but yeah, its tiring.
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1974 Ford Ranchero GT 500, 1993 DAC 112 UDM
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by TonyC »

I agree, it does get rather irritating at times to see newbies being all cocky on S-M (especially newbies with 'verts, no mystery of my feelings with that), or asking for advice that had been dished out here many times for years. Some I don't mind interacting with, but a lot of them I just have to ignore, as I'm too bluntly (or brusquely, or rudely) honest for my own good.

---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"

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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by Castrosua »

TonyC wrote:I agree, it does get rather irritating at times to see newbies being all cocky on S-M (especially newbies with 'verts, no mystery of my feelings with that), or asking for advice that had been dished out here many times for years. Some I don't mind interacting with, but a lot of them I just have to ignore, as I'm too bluntly (or brusquely, or rudely) honest for my own good.

---Tony
Exactly. I mean, I recently did the whole youtube thing...but I try not to spam links and what not, and I do my best to have up to date data. I do forget at times...but its good to check. Theres a "new kid on the block" posting about his Continental, and he is so wrong on so many things. Initially I tried to befriend the guy, maybe correct him in a friendly manner (I would have liked to work with him etc etc) but it fell on def ears. He seems to not have an interest in accuracy, and only wants the attention. Look at me...bla bla...

That and Facebook groups. The timeline thing just means the same photos, same topics pop up, and after the 12th time of correcting things, you just give up. And that's how incorrect info is perpetuated. Honestly, its what made me come back here after a long absence. I want to be among "my people" and sing our songs (engine noises, tool clanking lol)
1972 Lincoln Continental 4dr, 1973 Lincoln Continental TownCar
1974 Ford Ranchero GT 500, 1993 DAC 112 UDM
1994 Rocar 112, 2004 Ford Crown Vic Sport
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by Dan Szwarc »

Let me google that for you.

A note of FBers if you try to invite them here: be kind. They are new to cars. We’re entering a bit of a third generation of owners in the 60s and 70s Lincolns. Buyers are now in their 30s and 40s. They are not familiar with classic cars of the pre-computer type. Carbs, engines, transmissions, are all new to them. Back car knowledge is also very lax because… you gotta start somewhere.

We were all new at some time. What we learned from our dads and older brothers was learned by watching and asking them. This new car owner generation Didn’t have that. Don’t hold it against them. Don’t expect them to research everything about cars before they ask a question.

They’re newbies in the purest sense of the word. New to everything. It’s not their fault.

We need to be the wise teachers so they can carry the wrench and keep their old Lincolns running well into the 21st century.
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by jtheye »

Well said Mr. Szwarc something to add is that this Forum is full of info. Sometimes that info is hard to find. Not only because there are many threads that come up from key words when searched, but also because many photos or links that are posted in older threads are "not found 403" or some other connection problem.

I am a newbie. Been here since 2017, but during that whole time my car has been in the shop. It is only now that I am actually getting to look at my car and discover what I need to do next. This Forum is where I started, prior to actually buying the car, not joining until I had bought the car. I have never felt outside and always welcomed by everyone in this group.
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by Ken Stevens »

I’ve had my one and only Lincoln for 29 years. I was a newbie in ‘93 and I’m still asking questions. I’m not as knowledgeable as a John Cashman or John Brewer, but I’ve dinked around with my 61 long enough to have amassed enough experience to know that I still have so much more to learn. So in some topics, I’m still a newbie.
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by TonyC »

Veering off my resentment for spoiled-rich newbies-with-'verts for a mite (vets with 'verts are fine, but not newbies-with-'verts), I do have a suggestion for a sticky topic, something I've been searching for and still cannot find an answer. It's regarding replacement lower ball joints. Now, we vets all know that the originals, which were already of questionable durability, were riveted on and, as such, nowhere in any shop manual is guidance given for replacing them, save for replacing the whole bloody lower control arm. But we know that replacements come with bolts and nuts to fasten them, foregoing the very dangerous removal process of the lower control arm...and from my own experience, not all replacements have the right bolts and nuts. The replacements I got had bolts that were too short to use, so I was forced into reusing the old bolts and nuts, which I'm pretty sure have serious fatigue to them. Another thing the replacements did not come with was guidance on how much torque is required to secure the new joints. A generation-and-a-half ago, Ron Baker did publicize the torque limits for the bolts for replacement joints, but that information is long-since lost.

I've recently been hearing disconcerting thumps and clunks from Frankenstein's front wheels and am going through a slew of diagnostics trying to find and cure that problem. First I thought it was the strut-rod bushings, one of which was very clearly sloppy. But, true to the jinx that has plagued me for two years, that was a problem that needed to be fixed but not the cause of the clunking. Now I'm going back to rechecking jobs I did earlier this year: Lower ball joints and lug studs for the front wheels. I checked the torque on the lower ball joints, which I initially set to 30 foot-pounds; last week I bumped it up to 35, and the clunk seemed to get quieter but not gone away. Just yesterday I went to get the car off its feet and re-torque the bolts, this time to 40 foot-pounds, which I feel is pushing it considering how much these bolts have been through already. Clunking and thumping has gone down even more, but still is there. I dare not take those bolts to 50, which was what they were at when I did the ball-joint surgery back in May; for all I know, they may be stretching and on the verge of failure (I have already done tap-and-die repairs to them twice). But, if that is what they do need to be at, then I need new bolts and nuts.

Well, after that long-winded backstory, my topic suggestion is, what exactly is the torque spec for the bolts and nuts of a replacement lower ball joint? 30 is obviously (to me, anyway) not adequate; 40 is better but still not quite secure enough; so is it 50? The old joints did not make any such noise when they were still on; they only made the trademark squeaking noise to indicate they were at their life limits. Somebody somewhere must have the same guidance Ron Baker had for this.

---Tony
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by LithiumCobalt »

This would probably answer your question....https://www.machinedesign.com/archive/a ... ner-torque
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Re: What topics should be in this forum?

Post by TonyC »

Well, not really...I mean, I suppose if I could recall my trigonometry-level math training, if I submitted a registration request for that site just to download that PDF file, and if I spend several days studying the PDF, then maybe I could come up with an answer...assuming I calculate the formula correctly. But all that just to determine the torque specs for a 3/8" x 1-1/4" bolt/nut combo with 24-pitch threading (or lower if a lower pitch can be had, like say, 18 or 20)? IDK...I guess I've become too lazy in my old age.

Maybe I'll just resort to old-fashioned guesswork: Hit up the hardware store for bolts of that size, factoring in what material they may be made of. I'd think that, if any bolts are brassy in color, that's an indication not to use them to torque down suspension parts. I'll get one set for starters and subject it to a torque test; if it can withstand 50 foot-pounds of torque without failing, then that will be my answer. As most people have never been through the level of math training that I have, I'll post results and offer as a sticky...unless somebody beats me to it.

---Tony

Follow-Up 1, 24 September: A couple days ago I went to the hardware store to hunt for compatible fasteners. I got the best candidates they offered in the same dimensions, but the thread pitch was different: 16, as opposed to 24. However, the strength grade was the same as the originals, at Grade 5. I started with one to submit to a torque test, taking it to 50 ft.-lbs. Although I could feel evidence of yielding at that amount, I was able to torque to that level without stripping; so I went back and got more. I'm putting them on today so I can check that off my suspect list. If the thumping still doesn't go away, my next step will be to replace all the lug studs on the front wheels. Actually, even if the thumping goes away, something is telling me to do that job anyway; those studs went through severe strain when I replaced the rotors, and despite their surviving a 1,700-mile round-trip, I don't want to take any chances of them snapping on me and throwing a wheel.

Follow-Up 2, 8 October: I actually did this job a couple weeks ago, but I want to post them here so others will know the end results. I replaced all the bolts and nuts on both lower ball joints, torquing them to 45 foot-pounds. That I think is the practical limit for bolts of that size and thread pitch, as I stretched out a couple of lock-washers with that torque. Perhaps 40 would be just as good for anyone who does this sort of job, or 35 if using 24-pitch bolts and nuts if you have them in the right length. So, that's what I'm declaring to be the torque specs for bolt-on lower ball joints. It did not cure the thumping, however; so the following weekend I went to the auto center, only to postpone the lug-stud swaps I planned to do when I discovered the actual cause of the thumping: The forward end-bolt to the left upper control arm had worked itself loose, causing that arm to slide back and forth when the car was moving. How that happened, I have no clue; the other three end-bolts were still spec-tight. But, I tightened that bolt down as close as I could estimate (no clearance to apply a torque wrench to it without shifting the A-arm, which I was not going to do). Thumping is now gone. I did the lug studs the next day, only to cause another problem: Another noise, a rolling clicking, which I suspected to be a prematurely-worn wheel bearing. I discovered yesterday that it actually was a steel brake line that bent too close to the right rim and was rubbing against one of the inboard balancing weights...and it broke on me when I tugged on it to shift it back. Being that I did not expect to do any brake work, I did not have the ability to address it properly; so I did an emergency flaring to the broken line and hoped it would hold until I could do the repair properly. So, today, I made a permanent fix to that, by replacing the non-stock brake lines I had been using for 15 years with new, OE-designed brake hoses I bought a couple years ago and new steel lines, properly double-flared.
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"

1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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