1965 Power steering pump fitting leak fix

[George W]

It appears that my newly rebuilt power steering pump is leaking at the joint where the input pipe is pressed into the pump housing. Does anyone know if this fitting can be removed and reinstalled with success ? If so, should I use a sealant like JB Weld or Locite when reassembling ? It's such a PITA to R and R the pump I don't want to have to do this again !
As an aside the new connecting hose I got from LL between the reservoir and the pump is rather stiff and inflexible and I'm wondering if I may have caused the leak during the pump installation. I installed the hose on the reservoir first, left it a little loose and then installed the pump. i had to work the hose back and forth a bit to center it on the fittings at each end. It had not leaked before the pump was rebuilt. Thoughts and advice please. Thanks !

[papawayne]

First step: speak with the rebuilder. Wayne

[Suicidekid63]

Here is a thread that deals w/ pump leaks. On page 3 of the post, I put up my issues and my solution. There is a link to the supplier where I obtained the correct brass seat. Mine was leaking after my mechanic worked on my '63. He seemed indifferent to the leak he had caused by scoring the original brass seat, while working on it. I just fixed it myself and dropped him.
Easy fix that has held up fine. My leak was at line from wiper pump to steering pump.
https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/ ... at#p394724

[George W]

I'm aware of that post regarding the refinishing or replacing of the contact surface of the seat on the pump high pressure (output) side of the pump. Very valuable information IMO and thank you for posting in such detail. That's fine on my car, at least I think it is. It's the upper inlet side, pressed in ?? fitting that appears to be seeping around the edge. At least I think it is as that's where the fluid drip is. I tried tightening the rubber hose but that didn't stop it. I can't be 100% sure though that it's not the hose to nipple connection that's leaking. The new hose from LL is so stiff I really can't shift it back and forth between the pump and the reservoir to be sure that it's centered.
It's such a PITA to remove the pump and/or reservoir that I want to be sure where the leak is coming from and more importantly make sure that I have it fixed after I take this area all apart to get to everything.

[Suicidekid63]

Right on. I re-read your post and saw you were talking about the hose fitting vs. metal pressure line. Cant help there, but I'm sure someone can. Good luck w/ it. I hate leaks!

[Dan Szwarc]

Here's the deal with that pressed-in fitting: They should have used a sealant on it when they pressed it back in.

The real fix is to pull the pump, remove the fitting, apply an oil resistant sealant like Permatex RTV Black, the press it back in. Let cure, install, etc.

You might be able to do this on the car, but it would be cumbersome and difficult. The alternative takes longer, but is easier, step by step.

Here's the oil filler tube of the 462 block. It's not high pressure, but the concept is the same.

[George W]

I suspect that's what I'm going to have to do. Not looking forward to it. Sounds like a project for next spring !

[George W]

Spring is still a long way off so I've had a lot of time to think about this. I'll know for sure what the problem is when the weather gets warm enough to tackle this leak issue. Assuming the leak is the joint where the p/s fluid inlet nipple is pressed into the side of the pump would JB Weld be a better choice over the black RTV ? One other question, the new piece of hose I got from LL is very stiff and and this stiffness made it difficult to fit and center the hose between the pump and the reservoir. Has anyone sued some other hose for this purpose that's more pliable ?

[Dan Szwarc]

Black RTV for that pressed in Nipple. JB WEld will not withstand tranny fluid. And it will crack.

Also, use copper flare washer gaskets on the high-pressure fittings. Helps the flares seal better. Also, pull the seat and machine it with a lathe.

[tomo]

To make it easier to install the hose, heat the hose and then use a little power steering fluid as a lubricant on the pipe.

[TonyC]

I never heard of JB Weld being susceptible to transmission fluid; that means it would also be susceptible to motor oil, which is the same base fluid except that it's a bit thicker. I personally would recommend JB Weld on the inlet pipe, despite the claim. Black RTV just does not have the holding power you need to insert the inlet hose, which you mentioned from experience was very hard to install. JB Weld does. The thing is, however, that you have to be absolutely certain that both the pipe and the hole in the pump casing that it goes into are completely cleaned off and dried off, as any residue of petrol-based fluid could in fact compromise the integrity of the epoxy as Dan said. When it's perfectly cleaned off, then apply it, insert the pipe (make sure it's aligned properly, though), and let it cure for the required time. That means a minimum of 24 hours; I'd recommend going two days if you can before trying to reinstall.

I used JB Weld on my oil filler pipe about three years ago, and it has held tight that whole time. It may crack on me when I do the next big head surgery, but that's understandable if it does; I'll just apply a new coat of JB Weld to it.

---Tony

[George W]

Where can one obtain those copper gaskets for flare fittings ?

[Dan Szwarc]

eBay to start. Search for “parker flare gasket”.

[TonyC]

There is also something else I learned when installing a pump, which I need to share. It isn't the cause of your leak, but it will help to make sure no new leaks come from that point. The line that goes into the outlet tends to go in at an odd angle, which could cause uneven seating on the new flare, setting the stage for another leak of the same kind. What I recommend is freeing the lines from the bracket that retains them at the top of the engine, then unfastening the coupler between the segments for that line. This should give a lot of slack to make sure the end of that line segment fits squarely onto the flare. Then tighten down the retaining nut, and then re-assemble and re-secure the segments at the top of the engine. I thought of that with my very recent pump rebuild, and it seems to have worked; I have not seen so much as a drop from that point.

---Tony

[George W]

The time has now come to address this leak. I used florescent dye and have now confirmed that the leak is indeed coming from around the pressed in inlet nipple joint. Of course, the PS fluid continued to run down to the bottom of the pump and eventually drip off the bottom edge of the high pressure hose pipe at the 90 degree bend point. Before adding the dye I really couldn't tell where the leak was originating. I dread all the disassembly required to get the pump off the car but I can't see any other way to carefully clean the pump and to inspect that fitting. I assume that I'll be able to pull or rock the fitting out so I can clean all the surfaces to insure that they're oil free. Then it will simply be a decision of what sealant to use and how to re-install the fitting.
I assume that the nipple needs to be a tight fit and a light coating of either sealant, RTV or JB Weld will hopefully work.