'79 Mark V steering column shaft with rag joint removal

[abrahamlincoln]

Was hoping one can guide me as to exactly how to remove the rag joint (or more precisely, the column shaft together with the coupler) from a 1979 Mark V. I purchased a new rag joint, but in order to install it, I have to first remove the two riveted fasteners that connected the original rag joint to the coupler. Unfortunately the two riveted fasteners are attached to the steering column shaft. SO, in order to properly work on it, I need to remove the shaft.

There is a wedge bolt that is too far inside up the column to reach (please see attached photo). Is it correct to assume that one must access and remove that bolt by first removing the 7/16" 12-point steering gear box/coupler bolt and sliding the entire column up towards and through the firewall?? But in order to slide up the entire steering column towards the firewall, do I have to remove the steering wheel and all the inside components associated with it? Or is there an easier and more obvious way?

Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

[action]

Most steering couplers clamp onto the steering gear and bolt to the steering column shaft. Unless all you got was the flex material.
Removing rivets is not desired.

You will need to loosen the steering column and move it an inch or two after removing the coupler bolts

Action

[action]

MARK THE ORIENTATION OF THE STEERING COLUMN SHAFT TO THE STEERING GEAR

Remove the 12 point bolt at the green arrow. This bolt tightens a clamp around the steering gear input shaft. After the bolt has been removed the clamp may need to be expanded slightly. And to get it to slide off of the steering gear input shaft you may need to apply some leverage and penetrating oil.
Remove two bolts and nuts at the read arrow.

Then move the steering column shaft away by an inch or so. With the shaft in sections with joints you may have an easier time in moving the column shaft out of the way.

Note the bolts you are removing have been attached for over 40 years. They may need to be encouraged to move.

Post a picture of the new joint you have bought

Action

[abrahamlincoln]

Thanks, Action, for the reply and advice, much appreciated. Here are some photos of the new rag joint I bought.

Question, once the 12-point bolt, and the two bolts from the coupler, has been removed, will the steering column be able to move up an inch of two towards the firewall without doing anything else? Or, will I need to loosen up the column and steering wheel from inside the car first?

[action]

Interesting pictures. Not what I expected.

The Ford part number is a D3OZ 3A525 A Fits
73 to 79 Mark series
73 to 76 Montego
75 to 79 Pinto Bobcat with power steering

The link to Rock Auto for your vehicle shows 3 different ones. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lin ... upler,7418
One that is 2 5/8"diameter like the one you have posted
Two that are 3 1/4" in diameter (One with clamp with 29 splines and the other with 36 splines)

I believe one of the two larger ones (that have clamps) will work based on your initial pictures.

Once the 12-point bolt, and the two bolts from the coupler are removed the column shaft has to be moved to extract the coupler. Usually the column is bolted to the instrument panel using 4 rather larger bolts. These only need to be loosened. Then the column can be moved a little towards the rear of the vehicle. In my experience sometimes this is easy and sometimes requires some force. Know that everything else is still connected to the column, shift linkage, wiring and trim pieces. The amount of movement needed is an inch. More than that can be an issue. Then the coupler can be moved off of the steering gear input shaft. I would like to say slide off, but that may be an exaggeration of the actual removal process.

The two bolts 180 degrees from each other connect the coupler to the column shaft. The clamp connects the steering gear to the coupler.
Ninety degrees out of phase with the two bolts are studs that are riveted! These studs serve the purpose of maintaining control of the steering in the unlikely event that the rubber tears out of the joint. Should that happen the two studs would contact the column shaft and allow the operator to steer the vehicle. It would be difficult as the steering wheel may need to travel 90 degrees to turn the front wheels. However better that then turning the steering wheel four 360 degrees and no connection to the front wheels at all.

Action

[abrahamlincoln]

Thanks Action, for taking the time to explain, I have a better idea now on the process.

Regarding the coupler, I took alot of time deciding which of the three parts to buy from Rock Auto. Finally, I had decided to purchase only the rag joint material. I figured it would be my best option for the reason that I will keep all the original parts as is. The only modification I would need to do is grind off the two original riveted studs that are 90 degrees out of phase from the two bolts on the coupler, and insert the aftermarket bolts and nuts in its place.

I understand what you mean with the original two riveted stud stems there in place as a safeguard in case of rag joint deterioration. However, with this coupler design, what actually allows the steering to still work without the rag joint (albeit alot of play on the steering wheel) is the top U-bracket of the coupler which the steering shaft hits and causes the steering gear to turn.

My main concern now is how to remove that 6-7" long steering shaft, so I can grind off the two riveted studs from the coupler.

[action]

You will want to remove the entire flex couple joint before grinding.

The steering column shaft has the short shaft attached. That short shaft only needs to move an inch or so to be able to remove the entire flex joint.

Action