Power steering

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Greggory
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Power steering

Post by Greggory »

I have a 1966 linclon.
I need to get my power steering pump rebuilt and my steering gearbox rebuilt can anybody give me any direction on a rebuilt kit are where to buy new.
Thank
Gregg
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action
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Re: Power steering

Post by action »

Rock Auto has gaskets, seals and bearings for the pump. Depending on why the pump needs to be rebuilt, there is a seal kit.

They also have a gear kit.

>>>>Action
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TonyC
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Re: Power steering

Post by TonyC »

Out of curiosity, Action, I decided to look up these bearings; what they have is not right for the steering pump. What they list looks more like a clutch bearing for the A/C compressor; there is certainly no bearing of that kind in the steering pump. But they do offer a listing for a complete pump—or, to be precise, a rebuild service; the customer needs to send the old pump in to them to be rebuilt. The price, though, certainly beats the Hell out of any prices for straight-up replacement pumps: It's less than a third of the average going price for an already-rebuilt pump.

---Tony
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action
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Re: Power steering

Post by action »

Kind of depends on what work each assembly needs. The OP have not stated why.
If they are just leakers, a seal kit may be just the ticket.

All I did was to do a search. At least it is a lead for the OP. And if RA carries some parts, some one else will too.

>>>>Action
Phoenix - Yeah, it's hot, however it's a dry heat
2006 Lincoln Navigator Limited 5.4l 3V
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 2DR Coupe Diamond Anniversary 4.6l DOHC, 4R70W, 3.07
1970 Continental Mark III Triple Black 460 4v, C6, 2.80 (Used for Woodward Dream Cruise or just generally stored in Michigan)
1966 Lincoln Continental 4DR Convertible 462 4v, C6, 3.00
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4DR Breezeway 410 4v, C6, 2.80
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Re: Power steering

Post by defrang »

LaFore Lincoln parts in Colorado rebuilds these. Well known and trusted by Lincoln owners including myself.
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Re: Power steering

Post by papawayne »

Years ago I sent mine to Baker's. Guess that's no longer a possibility...Wayne
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Re: Power steering

Post by LithiumCobalt »

With as sensitive as these pumps can be and with the scarcity of good cores for rebuild, I wouldn't attempt anything at home on one of them. Not even a seal job. Send to one of the experts and shell out the dough. Lincoln Land, Art Apple, Blair Farmer, etc.
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Re: Power steering

Post by Solid »

LincolnLand rebuilt my 62 steering gear. It's held up well and was very well packed. IIRC, for the early years both LincolnLand and Baker's required your rebuildable core due to lack of inventory.
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Re: Power steering

Post by rtromb »

Greggory wrote:I have a 1966 linclon.
I need to get my power steering pump rebuilt and my steering gearbox rebuilt can anybody give me any direction on a rebuilt kit are where to buy new.
Thank
Gregg
I suggest buying a rebuilt from Mark 11 enterprises. I paid $365.00 I sent one off to lares corp a quote was $900 after they received and inspected it. I had another to send off they received it a quote of $800 said it was broken in shipping. Mark 11 charges $300 for core refunded when sent back. Very important to double triple box with protection stuffed all around gear box. Lare corp left a bad taste in my mouth. Good Luck
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texaslincoln
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Re: Power steering

Post by texaslincoln »

I pulled both my power steering pump and gearbox last year and sent to ADCO Power Steering Products in Houston, Tx. Was maybe a 2 week turnaround and cost me about $200 a piece to have rebuilt. Came back looking new and beautiful.
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Re: Power steering

Post by defrang »

texas lincoln,
have you installed and they are working well? please let us all know how it turns out.
RD
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Re: Power steering

Post by JAB »

Don't forget to replace the power steering filter.
As most of you know, I have reproduced the CORRECT filter for 1961 - 1969 Lincolns. The kit includes both the filter and the reservoir gasket.
Filters available from the Usual Suspects as well as most parts stores are INCORRECT for a variety of reasons. Take a look at the thread on this topic that was first posted on this forum November 19, 2019.

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texaslincoln
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Re: Power steering

Post by texaslincoln »

As of today I have not installed my new parts yet, rebuilt power steering pump and rebuilt gear box. Should be getting to install things in the next few weeks as I’ve gotten everything rebuilt I’ve needed. I will keep thread updated.
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Re: Power steering

Post by TonyC »

Bit of advice: When you slide on your new steering pump, be sure to apply a thin level of axle grease both onto the crankshaft snout and onto the inner sleeve of the pump. Those pump sleeves have been notorious for warping over time, almost like welding themselves to the the crank noses, especially (but not necessarily exclusively) if the pump has been run dry for even a matter of seconds. I've learned that applying thin layers of axle grease before installation helps to control, even prevent, warpage.

---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"

1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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TonyC
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Re: Power steering

Post by TonyC »

Bumping this thread to share my experience with an unscheduled pump issue. Maybe this can come in useful for those who have tinkering skills (for those who don't, I suggest you acquire them).

First, the setup: During the engine surgery on Frankenstein, which is still ongoing but close to the ultimate test, I discovered that the power steering pump sprang a very bad leak; in fact, overnight virtually all the fluid I put into the reservoir had come out through the pump's front seal, leaving a really big puddle on the pavement. With affordable replacements not an option, I decided to go the re-seal route, despite the fact that the last attempt I had made years ago was a failure, and many who have tried it themselves also failed. After all, a $49 seal kit is a lot easier on my funds than a $1,100 replacement pump.

While I waited for the kit to come in, I started to brainstorm over what could cause new seals to fail, and I came up with this idea: The sleeve will, over time, become rough on the rubbing surface due to dirt and grime buildup caked on by engine heat, so I got the idea of pulling my Dremel out and brushing the sleeve down. This of course involved tearing the pump down to its core, a job that most would prefer to leave to rebuilders. The sleeve is actually easy to remove once the two screws that hold the inner assembly together are out; there are only a small dowel and a snap ring that hold the rotor in place on the sleeve, both easy to remove along with the rotor. With my Dremel and a rotary brush, I got all the roughness out of the sleeve that I could, especially around the indents in the sleeve where the outer seals are supposed to rub; this was something I did not think of doing in the last rebuild (of course, then I didn't have a Dremel, either), and I'm willing to bet that few if any others who tried a reseal job thought of that as well. A perfectly-smooth rubbing surface is critical to prevent new seals from leaking. I then inspected the interior for any signs of scoring, which I didn't expect to find on this pump because it never groaned while I used it, only began to leak at the outer front seal; once I confirmed that everything was still in good shape and I got the seal kit, I got to work, which I'd say was pretty much tantamount to a rebuild. Where removing the outer seals are concerned, you will need a seal puller to get them out; luckily, I have one. For good measure, I also applied a very thin coat of JB Weld to the housing on both sides where the seals are supposed to seat, to hold the seals down once they were driven into place, even though they actually felt very tight in the housing when I was driving them in; I did that because I remembered the rear seal popping out of place after my last re-seal attempt, which I do not want to happen again (you may not necessarily have to do this, but if you do remember to make the coating very thin, you don't need any J B Weld oozing inside the pump). After letting them cure overnight, I re-assembled everything per the shop manual's instructions (which are actually quite good in this regard). Here, I want to warn folks about special tools you need. You will need two perfectly-round cylindrical tools to make this job work: One with an outer diameter of 2-1/4" to drive the new seals squarely into place, and one with an outer diameter of 1-3/4", to push into the new seal while you are trying to work the sleeve through. The latter is important because you can twist and damage the seal with the sleeve, despite its chamfered edges; inserting this tool from the outer side will stretch the seal without damaging it, allowing you to move the sleeve through, pushing the tool out in the process, and getting a good seal on the sleeve edges. After torquing everything back together, I filled the pump with fluid, plugged the line fittings, and set the pump on its side to check for leaks, which would be bound to happen if something were amiss; as of four hours, the housing has remained dry, so I will be putting this pump on tomorrow and see how it holds up in operation, assuming the engine runs.

My takeaway from this is, you will essentially be doing your own rebuild if you want to re-seal your existing pump, and it is far more involved than just planting new O-rings in place. You will need to disassemble the core to perform surgery on the sleeve, Dremeling it to a perfectly-smooth polishing, especially paying attention to the two small grooves that are the mating points for the outer seals, and which you won't see all that well without polishing. Also, while you have the core disassembled, carefully inspect the surfaces of everything in the core, not just the rollers or the rotor, but also the surfaces of the chamber for the rollers and rotor in the forward half (the cover) of the pump and the pressure plate. If you see any signs of scored metal, that ought to tell you to save your seals for another candidate; if the inner surfaces are not scored, then all you have to do is concentrate on polishing the sleeve's outer surface. It is critical to reassemble the pump correctly, but I noticed that the rotor is designed to go in one way: One side has a groove in its inner diameter for the snap ring to slide against, so that will tell you that is the forward-facing side. And of course, don't lose the dowel; that is the only thing that allows the rotor to spin with the sleeve. Plus, get the special tools I described above because they too are critical for keeping your outer seals intact during reassembly; you ought to be able to find such things in the plumbing sections of hardware stores, just carry a tape measure with you and keep in mind the diameters I specified. Do this in as clean an environment as you can muster; these pumps are sensitive precision components, so you don't want any debris of any size inside your pump to cause damage. Finally, follow the shop manual's instructions while doing all this, and in the end you may just have a successful rebuild on your hands for well-under $100.

---Tony
Last edited by TonyC on Tue Dec 28, 2021 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"

1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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