1966 Upper Control Arm Bushing Failing

[bigbill]

I recently had a shop do a full component swap on the front suspension of my 1966 Continental Convertible. This included a full rebuild kit from Kanter, springs, shocks, steering box isolators (solid), center link, tie rod ends, etc. I drove the car 200 miles or so trying to break in the new components and the car steadily began to pull harder and harder to the passenger side. I inspected the suspension and noticed the upper control arm bushings appeared to be shot. I ordered replacements and went back to the shop to discuss the problem. I understood from this forum the importance of torquing them while on the ground so we made sure to do this the second time (even though they claimed they did it the first time). Under investigation of the bad bushings, it appeared they were two piece with a plastic like substance on the outside of the inner sleeve in a grid pattern. This plastic like substance had a section worn through with metal on metal rubbing and the plastic had come out the ends of the bushing (pics to follow). We called Kanter and they mentioned these were indeed a two part bushing and required a white lithium grease to function properly. So, we did these things and installed them back into the vehicle and did a full alignment. I picked the car up yesterday and drove it home (without issue) 20 miles or so. I got home and looked at the bushings and they had done the same thing as before. I then did some calling around and my understanding is that these are true to the original bushings and they are all made/sold (NOS) by Rare Parts and then "re-branded" so to speak by everyone else (including usual suspects). This concerns me as I was hoping I bought some aftermarket junk and I could get something else but it sounds like they are actually all identical. I wanted to reach out here to see if anyone can aid in the problem or has seen anything like this before. I just don't want to continue to replace these with the "same" parts and end up with the same result.

Pictures to come in a follow up post.

Thanks,

Bill

[bigbill]

Please see below pictures

[bigbill]

close up

[LithiumCobalt]

Can’t really tell by looking at the photos what the problem is. I just redid my front suspension with a Kanter kit. So far, so good. Probably put 300-400 miles on so far.

[siglumous]

I had mine replaced a couple years ago using a full kit from Bakers. Uppers were squeaky as hell and my mechanic couldn’t fix them. I bought some good used shafts with original bushings still presses on them from LL, as I was told the uppers wouldn’t normally wear out given they don’t carry much of the load/stress. so I had issues with uppers recently. They may have gone the way yours did if I ran them long enough. The squeaking was just too embarrassing to drive with!

[LithiumCobalt]

Combing through old posts and noticed Vertume’s reply about the upper bushings squeaking. I have same damn problem with new Kanter bushings. The rubber appears to be squeezing out the end too. Not impressed. The rest of it appears to be solid. I’ll have to see if I saved any of the rubber from my original upper bushings.

[frasern]

Could control arm "ears" have bent during installation?

[LithiumCobalt]

That is certainly possible. I didn't measure beforehand, so no way for me to know other than measuring a set that hasn't been molested. I gave the upper bushings a few squirts of WD-40 last night. Quieted them right down. Not really what I wanted to do considering these are new parts, but if it works, it works. Alignment is perfect the way it is so I don't want to take it back apart.

[action]

Nick,

Were the new bushings from Kanter rubber or some poly product?
Polyurethane bushings are a harder material than rubber. As a result they hold suspension parts in alignment better and longer than regular rubber. And have superior wear characteristics. The down side is they can squeak as the suspension part moves. Because they are harder than rubber they tend to stay or stick in a given position. When twisted enough they will make sounds. Lubrication is usually needed to eliminate the squeaking for bushings that are subject to twisting.

>>>>>>>>Action

[LithiumCobalt]

They appeared to be the same material and shape as the original stuff, which is a softer rubber than what you typically find in a control arm bushing.

[frasern]

I measured them on my 67, both sides are the same, at 11". Hard to reach from above, so I bent a coat hanger, and measured that, so not a perfect gauge, but if both sides are alike, that's a start.
The manual shows the arm being supported directly below the bushing while being pressed (one side at a time). If a flat rate mechanic was rushing the job by pressing both, with no support between them, the arms could be bent, or under pressure. It's hard to reach, but tapping the ears outward with a drift punch, may fully seat them, allowing the arm to relax.

[Mrbillyd]

Pages from UpperControl Arm Bushing.pdf

(140.36 KiB) Downloaded 86 times

It looks like you are missing a Disk that pushes against the Bushing.

[Mrbillyd]

The cut out faces the engine. The Upper control Arm itself is not symmetrical

[LithiumCobalt]

Still have issues with the upper bushings on my '67 sedan. Have not looked thoroughly, but I vaguely remember the original bushings getting all marred up upon removal so I don't think I have any of those pieces any longer. Some of the rubber has squeezed out of the ends and I have to spray them with WD-40 regularly or they will annoyingly squeak. Now I have to figure out what to do about it. I guess paying for another alignment isn't the end of the world, but I don't really want to take the whole damn thing apart again. Do I go with 50-year old originals where the rubber is likely dry-rotten and hard or go with another set of shitty Kanter bushings? Decisions, decisions.

[action]

WD 40 is an oil based product.
My understanding is an oil and/or grease products will degrade (age faster) natural rubber over long periods of time.
Poly bushing would not do that because of the mix.

I get the bushings are noisy so you spray them. They may be noisy because they are a poly type. If that is the case disregard this post. Keep spraying them with Wd-40. If they are not poly the damage may already be done. If not use a different product. Regular bushings should get lubrication as well. Just not with an oil based product. Nearly anything that you would condition vinyl or leather interiors would work for rubber suspension bushings.


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