New Metering & Proportioning Valves for our Lincolns!

[66Lincoupe]

NICE!

[Dan Szwarc]

Well, crap. I almost made a critical mistake, but caught it before tightening stuff down.

The proportioning valve rear output port is not 3/16", but for 1/4" tubing. I either have to contaminate my beautiful, fancy fittings with the presence of an adapter or use 1/4" line from the rear line to the junction hidden behind the splash shield (my preference).

[CaptainDave]

The new issue of Continental Comments is out and reports that points will no longer be deducted for cars retrofitted with the dual chamber master cylinder. Original cylinders will only be an advantage if a tiebreaker is needed.

[Dan Szwarc]

My installation is complete and appears to be fully functional.

[defrang]

Dan when I replaced my master on my 65 sedan about 4 years ago, I used the kit from Bakers. What dual reservoir did you use and where did you get it?

[Dan Szwarc]

I use a Dorman M71245 Master which is brand new, not refurbed, for about $50. Bend my own lines. It fits 67-71, but fits 61-66 boosters.

[Ken Stevens]

I use a Dorman M71245 Master which is brand new, not refurbed, for about $50. Bend my own lines. It fits 67-71, but fits 61-66 boosters.

I ordered one of these for my 61. Not bent brake lines before but can't be any worse than fuel lines, except for the flare differences. I'll have to create the two lines that come with the $200 Baker kit and pick up the proper union, but we'll see how challanging it is when I get into it. It will be here next week so I'll have time to pull the cruise unit and install the proper single speedo cable. (Gotta remember to order one of those...)

Anything else that may bite me in the butt of which I should be aware?

[defrang]

Thanks Dan. Ken, please report back on the installation: any obstacles you overcame and how.

[Dan Szwarc]

Bending lines is a challenge, to say the least. I used an easily bendable wire to route the path and determine the length before cutting and flaring the lines.
I flare both ends with the tube nuts installed, then bend to match the pattern I planned.

I use a combination of a standard tubing bender and tube-bending pliers. Small tweaks are made by hand.

[monster]

Hi folks, Newbie here trying to get a 66 coupe up and running (er, stopping) ok got the car and inside it was a brand new single master cylinder, brake pads, shoes and rear cylinders in a box. car has no working brakes, system was dry. a line from MC to brass block was replaced with front hoses. calipers were rebuilt.
I swapped the old MC for the new unit, and popped in the new pads, shoes and cylinders. tried to bleed the system with no luck. pulled all lines to calipers and cylinders to make sure they are not clogged, still no luck, cracked open the rusted metering valve looked and cleaned inside still no luck. looking thru the forum I see the post about the metering proportioning valve alternative. Dan quickly pointed me to it, and i ordered it. I am also considering a dual chamber MC while at it. then I pulled out the SM that"s when it hit me I don't have a proportioning valve, seems someone eliminated it. BTW the pads and shoes i removed looked new, calipers were mega stuck but I rebuilt them. and i don't remember seeing an O ring on the old MC so I did not install one on the new unit. during the bleeding process it felt like i was getting air each time I pressed the brake pedal so i guess that's why. any guidance or tip will be greatly apreciated.

[Dan Szwarc]

Take a close look at the HW on your car and confirm we are both talking about the same parts.

Metering valve for front brakes. Mounted beneath MC:

65-66 Metering Valve

Proportioning valve for rear brakes. Mounted on sidewall, driver's side:

65-66 Proportioning valve

DCP_1060[1].jpg (34.3 KiB) Viewed 1917 times

The stem on the metering valve is "supposed" to be pushed in when bleeding.

The metering valve is also known as a hold-off valve. It will not open until pressure reaches a minimum.
Failure to have one could result in early wear of pads and shoes in light braking and city driving.

The proportioning valve does the opposite. It limits pressure to a maximum.
Failure to have one could result in wheel lockup and loss of vehicle control.


Which one are you missing?

[monster]

Thanks Dan for the prompt response i have the metering valve, the proportioning valve is not present on the system. i did open the metering Valve and cleaned it out, not much in it just a brass plunger with a rubber diaphragm and spring. didn't know about pressing the plunger when bleeding so i'll try again. seems to car was just braking the rear wheels as calipers were locked up. this car was under a canopy for the last 10+ yrs..

[Dan Szwarc]

You should be able to bleed, but no prop valve = rear lockup in firm braking.

[monster]

ok, i'll try again pressing the plunger and will add the MC O ring just in case.

[Ken Stevens]

I use a Dorman M71245 Master which is brand new, not refurbed, for about $50. Bend my own lines. It fits 67-71, but fits 61-66 boosters.

Dorman M71245

So here's the mc as delivered. The front outlet (which feeds the rear brakes) needs the longer fastener, the rear outlet for the front brakes has an adapter included which accepts the regular length flare fastener. Also included are plastic plugs for the side outlets for bench bleeding. My question is regarding the silver inverted flare adapter on the bottom. Am I correct in thinking this is for the brake light switch? Don't know what else it could be for.

I'm going to need a new one as the one on my old master is corroded in place. I thought these would be a NPT thread and not a flare fitting.