[HOW TO] Dual master conversion & booster rebuild

[Dan Szwarc]

Five studs, right?

[Steve K]

Please please write that up in some sort of easy to understand step by step manner with pics if possible. I think even John Cashman made a comment on here about that being the worst possible job on these cars and that he wouldn't do it...period. That's not a quote but a paraphrase. I, for one, will be forever beholding!

[burnski]

5 studs. original post updated.

[burnski]

Cool. Do the studs on the booster go through the steering column support bracket in 64?

No, only the bracket that holds the brake pedal assembly.

[Dan Szwarc]

There was someone here posting asking for the "magic trick" on how to remove it. He insisted we were holding back on some information. You did it no trouble.

I wonder what the problem is.

[burnski]

There was someone here posting asking for the "magic trick" on how to remove it. He insisted we were holding back on some information. You did it no trouble.

I wonder what the problem is.

I can see that maybe if your not too flexible it can be a bitch climbing under there, but honestly i spent more time fighting with one of the screws on the Neutral Safety Switch than I did with the bolts on the booster.

As far as the comments though that removing the booster from a 64-65 is impossible i call BS. Worst case, make you kid/nephew/neighbour climb under there and do it LOL.

[Steve K]

I'm kind of red faced. From everything I read, I was gearing up for a two - day day, smash and slash my hands, wrench my back, and use a lot of bad words. So, you really could just see up there? When I looked, all I could see was wires and hoses. Your pictures give me hope. I may give this a shot this weekend. Many thanks!

I hope you will show the pics of the inside of the booster and the diaphragm. That is what I think is shot on mine. Thanks again

[Steve K]

There was someone here posting asking for the "magic trick" on how to remove it. He insisted we were holding back on some information. You did it no trouble.

I wonder what the problem is.

Dan, I know there are several of us that have been intimidated by this. I think now it must be a case of overly anticipating something that you have heard is really hard to do. So you accept that instead of just going after it. I was more afraid of hurting myself than anything else given how tenuous my back situation is pending my surgery. I'm greatly encouraged and I think his pictoral post on this topic would make a great sticky!

[mlj427]

I'm not sure about 64's but usually it's only 4 bolts to remove the seat and then you have plenty of room to stretch out.

Mike

[burnski]

I'm kind of red faced. From everything I read, I was gearing up for a two - day day, smash and slash my hands, wrench my back, and use a lot of bad words. So, you really could just see up there? When I looked, all I could see was wires and hoses. Your pictures give me hope. I may give this a shot this weekend. Many thanks!

I hope you will show the pics of the inside of the booster and the diaphragm. That is what I think is shot on mine. Thanks again

Yup, once the wires, neutral safety switch, and vac hoses were pulled out of the way I could see no problem.

[Steve K]

Is this booster assembly like the one in the Lincoln? I didn't see the diaphragm in your disassembled booster. Just wondered what it looks like. I thought I might take it apart just to see if I can see the problem in there. What parts were included in your rebuild kit?

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how ... &FORM=VIRE

[burnski]

There isn't a diaphragm in it, instead it uses a piston. These old boosters are slightly different than modern boosters.

Modern boosters have vacuum on both sides of the booster until you step on the brake which dumps the vacuum from the back side introducing atmospheric pressure pulling the plunger forward pressing the master cylinder.

These older boosters work backwards. They have atmospheric pressure on both sides until you step on the brake which introduces vacuum to the front chamber.

Two different ways of doing the same thing just slightly different design.

This is why on modern boosters the vacuum line goes right into front of the booster whereas on these older units the vacuum goes into the rear of the booster.

[burnski]

Also in the shop manual page 2-7 there are good diagrams of the booster at rest and under load.

[Dan Szwarc]

I just noticed his booster is held together by bolts, not crimped like the 66 and later boosters.

No wonder you were able to disassemble it. How are you sourcing the gaskets you need?

[burnski]

I just noticed his booster is held together by bolts, not crimped like the 66 and later boosters.

No wonder you were able to disassemble it. How are you sourcing the gaskets you need?

yup, 8 small bolts, like a #8 or #10.

heres a rebuild kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/172076546861

all of the rubber gaskets are fine, just the leather & felt seem to be pooched. only other part i might need is an oring which is split but it looks pretty standard.