Why is 62 center link so expensive?

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TonyC
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Re: Why is 62 center link so expensive?

Post by TonyC »

Unless somebody with better experience says otherwise, I would say yes. Adjusting the tie rods ought to compensate for any deviations in alignment caused by the new links. But that's best left to an alignment shop, which you should go to immediately after installing the new link.

I didn't know about batches of replacement links having defects, but it is a possibility I would not refute. Barring manufacturing defects, the designs of the aftermarket center links are in fact superior to the factory originals. The originals were permanently sealed, no lube points provided, because the engineers figured it would not be needed. Maybe, had they not concocted the rubber pads for the steering gearboxes (most state that didn't happen until '63, but I suspect they were phased in during '62, although I cannot really confirm that), maybe they might have lasted longer. But the replacements have lube points at the ends, meaning they can be maintained at regular intervals and last much longer than sealed versions the factory came up with. Plus, the driver's-side stud has a semi-ball design to it, meaning it can swivel a bit, something the factory links never had. That swivel on that side was designed to compensate for the gearbox twisting the rubber pads caused, which was an excellent idea...of course, if you have all-metal replacement spacers on your gearbox, then all that is a moot point, and all the better.

Unfortunately, the center links for these cars will always be expensive. But, with the design upgrades done to the links (again barring any defects in actual construction, or collision incidents), it ought to be a one-time expense that you should never have to incur again.

---Tony
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1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
frasern
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Re: Why is 62 center link so expensive?

Post by frasern »

Newchapters wrote:so you think it would be fine using this one.
Missed this, traveling. I would say measure the outer pins. If they are the same, the slight difference in the inner holes can likely be adjusted out. If the pins are a little wide, install just the center link, and check for clearance ( idler arm binding ), before attaching the inner tie rods. I would be uneasy if the pins are narrower than orig.
If the only difference is the inner holes, they will likely be close enough, but only the alignment guy will know for sure.
If money is no object, buy another one, but it costs nothing but time, to check the one you already have.
Fraser Noble, Western Canada
'62 and '67 LCC.
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