1965 Power steering pump fitting leak fix

[Dan Szwarc]

You cannot use a sealant on a flare fitting joint. The seal is supposed to be between the tapered seat inside the pump and the flared tube itself. The nut doesn't make a seal to the threads. It just holds the tube against the seat.

That's why I suggested Parker Flare gaskets. They fill in the imperfections between the seat and the flare and make a better seal. This is if you do not jump through the hoops to remove the seat and turn it in a lathe like I did.

Please read this thread: https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/ ... =2&t=49701

[George W]

Dan, I know that you're not supposed to use any sealant on a flare fitting. That's not the fitting that's leaking. The pressed in metal nipple connecting the reservoir to the pump body is leaking (seeping) at the point where the nipple enters the pump body. I've got to pull the reservoir and disconnect the hose to see if that nipple is loose. I'm hoping I can clean it up and seal it without having to remove the pump from the engine.

[George W]

I may just want to pick up a couple of those Parker copper flare gaskets just to be safe. I see that they come in various sizes. Would 1/4" be the correct size ?

[Dan Szwarc]

Dan, I know that you're not supposed to use any sealant on a flare fitting. That's not the fitting that's leaking. The pressed in metal nipple connecting the reservoir to the pump body is leaking (seeping) at the point where the nipple enters the pump body. I've got to pull the reservoir and disconnect the hose to see if that nipple is loose. I'm hoping I can clean it up and seal it without having to remove the pump from the engine.

Sorry. I misread. My bad.

Yeah... on that nipple. Best of luck getting something to stick without degreasing it off the car.
You could probably do it without removing it, but if you want the best possible fix, pull the pump, repair the seat, pull the low pressure return nipple, RTV it, press it back in, seal it on the outside, pray to the pump goddess, drink a beer, then reinstall.

[George W]

Dan,
I dread having to do this but I must if I want to be able to enjoy the car this spring. Since the car has a/c the thought of having to pull the pump again is giving me an anxiety attack. Not so much that the disassembly / removal of the radiator, fan, belts, etc. is such a pita to begin with but the r and r of the hood again to get at all this stuff is a task that I'm not looking forward to.

Compounding all of the above is that will the "fix" work ? I'm fairly certain that installing that new, very stiff return hose I got from LL may have caused the leaking nipple joint to begin with. It was a bear to get centered between the pump and the reservoir fittings. I have no idea of how tight a fit that return nipple should be in the pump body. I also wonder, since it seems to be a simple press fit, if the factory used any type of sealant when pressing in the fitting originally.
From what I've read here I'll try the black RTV first and God forbid if it still leaks I'll try the JB Weld

About that copper flare washer, is 1/4" the right size ?

Wish me luck !

[Dan Szwarc]

It looks like it’s based on tubing diameter.

This is my collection sized from left to right:
3/8, 5/16, 1/4, 3/16

For reference, 3/8 is large fuel line and 3/16 is brake line.

Im not 100% sure, but power steering high pressure line might be 5/16.

[George W]

I conversed with Arthur Apple this week, who BTW, was very generous with his time. I'm following his advice, as he has rebuilt a large number of these pumps. The sealant he recommended to use was only Loctite Red and to let it cure at least 24 hours, preferably longer. I did so this past Thursday and I oriented the inlet nipple's insertion at about the 1 o'clock position as it comes very close to the lower rad. hose connection and I wanted to allow just enough space for the thickness of the hose and the clamp to not touch or interfere with the rad. hose. I've never used Loctite before but it does seem to be just the right viscosity to flow into and around the fitting joint much like sweat soldering does on a copper pipe fitting.

I cleaned out the bore for the nipple using several shop towels twisted up and saturated with brake cleaner. I followed up with cotton swabs and brake cleaner until everything was super clean and oil free. I applied the Locite, installed the nipple and tapped it home with a wood block and hammer. It seemed to seat in place quite firmly. It's been 2 days now so I plan on reassembling early next week. This should give it plenty of time to cure.

[Dan Szwarc]

I would use RTV black. Good luck.

[George W]

The Loctite seems to have quite a strong hold between the pressed in metal inlet nipple and the pump body. In reading the tech data on Loctite (Red) the material chemically reacts with the ions in the steel and the lack of oxygen to create a solid bond.
I let it set up 48 hours to be safe and then reconnected the reservoir and all the lines and filled it to the F mark on the dipstick.
It has now been sitting for more than 24 hours in a static condition and not the slightest sign of any seepage or a leak of any kind. I'll finish re-assembling the radiator, fan, belts and hood in the next day or two and then I'll be able to start the car, cycle the p/s system and then check for leaks again after a good heat cycle. So far the results are encouraging.

[George W]

I'm pleased to report that the repair using the red Loctite appears to be successful. The nipple fitting is tight within the pump casting and now, 48 hours later, not a drip to be seen. Thanks to all of you that offered suggestions.