Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

[LithiumCobalt]

Another step back. Took in to the AC shop today to figure out what the deal was since I was getting nothing but warm air out the vents in A/C mode. Blown liquid line. OK, fine. When got ready to leave, car wouldn't start. Get power to the switch, dash lights, crank and nothing happens except for the usual relays doing their thing. Acts just like the NSS is out of adjustment. Changed position of gear shifter to neutral, barely neutral, park, barely park, nothing. No power to start wire at the solenoid. Starts and runs perfectly jumping the start terminal on the solenoid. Is it possible for the NSS to fail in such a way that renders all positions useless? Interested to see if these are even available anymore.

[defrang]

I have seen NOS NSS on ebay in the last couple of years. I agree is sounds like a NSS problem.

[action]

When got ready to leave, car wouldn't start. Get power to the switch, dash lights, crank and nothing happens except for the usual relays doing their thing. Acts just like the NSS is out of adjustment. Changed position of gear shifter to neutral, barely neutral, park, barely park, nothing. No power to start wire at the solenoid. Starts and runs perfectly jumping the start terminal on the solenoid. Is it possible for the NSS to fail in such a way that renders all positions useless? Interested to see if these are even available anymore.

The path of power to crank the engine goes like this:
From the battery side of the starter relay there is a wire that goes to the ignition switch.
When the ignition switch is turned to start, the power goes to the NSS.
If the NSS is closed the power goes to the "S" terminal of the starter relay.
The starter relay pulls up a plunger and connects the heavy cable on the battery side of the relay to the heavy cable going to the starter. AND a small wire to the coil from the "I" terminal on the starter relay.

If there is no power to the starter relay on the "S" terminal when the ignition switch is turned to crank or start the engine, possible issues would be:
NSS always open. Either from gross mis-adjustment or it is no longer functional
Ignition switch is no longer sending power to the NSS
Or the wiring and/or connectors between the starter relay, ignition switch, NSS or back to the starter relay are not continuous.

I believe the NSS is a combination NSS and back up light switch. (May also have parking brake release) If that is correct, one could turn the ignition switch to run (not start) with the parking brake on, shift to "R" and check the back up lights. If they are on at least the NSS is there and functioning in that manner.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[LithiumCobalt]

Consulted my wiring diagrams briefly and then went poking around....unhooked the NSS and jumpered the red/blue wires together. Engine cranks. As I was fidgeting around with plugging the wiring harness back in, I heard the BOING of a spring unloading. Turned the key again with the NSS hooked back up - engine cranks fine. Can only assume this was a fluke with the internal spring binding and not returning to correct position. May warrant removing/cleaning/regreasing. Crisis averted for now. Next up is removal of the leaking AC refrigerant line that I will send out for rebuild and then she goes in Monday for a transmission re-seal. Last on the list this summer is to get a new windshield so that I don't have a score mark square in my field of vision....next winter brings a whole slew of things new and old on the list. They are so sweet when things are working!

[action]

They are so sweet when things are working!

The never ending list of things to be done on a classic car!

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[LithiumCobalt]

Some good news. Even though the transmission shop appeared to be incompetent since they left my car on the lift for a week, it appears the transmission leak is no more. Luckily, it only involved reinsertion of the dipstick tube with a new o-ring. I had them replace the pan gasket and fluid while it was there too. So, no need to remove the whole thing. If I can get the power steering pressure line to stop leaking, the only leak left would be the rear main.

[LithiumCobalt]

As mentioned earlier, I found out that one of my AC lines had a leak. Unfortunately, it is one that runs to the condenser out in front of the radiator. Oh what fun it was to get to that without removing the radiator. I basically had to remove the top radiator support, loosen the bottom radiator bolts, and unhook the fuel lines. Did all of this with the hood on, which also required some manipulation. I had just enough room to wedge the entire condenser up in front of the radiator enough that I could remove the two lines (went ahead and sent both out for rebuild because they are original and I'll be damned if I am taking this apart again!). Sent them out to Cold Hose in Ocala that was mentioned in another thread here: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... la#p385995. $120 to rebuild both using original ends. I probably should have sent ALL of the hoses in, but didn't want to detract from originality and they don't seem to be leaking. Yet. So, will get these buttoned back up and get charged with R-12 again and see how she does. Blew nice and cold for about two weeks.

[LithiumCobalt]

AC issues seem to be resolved. For now. Still blows nice and cold, although not much need anymore this season. Will keep running occasionally through the winter to keep the seals conditioned.

Next up on the list:

Replace wiper cable that I broke while adjusting
Re-glue the original vinyl top around the edges where it is lifting.

I will be sure to post photos.

My winter list:

Replace rear main seal
Rebuild clock (again) as it is way too fast
Add Bluetooth to radio
Replace engine mounts
Replace rear shocks
New carpet set for trunk (possibly)
Rebuild front suspension (possibly)

[LithiumCobalt]

I've been a slackass this winter and haven't been getting anything done on the car so I thought I better get after it as it will be getting warm enough to drive soon. Decided to tackle the rear main seal as I am tired of all the oil leaking all over the floor. When I removed the rear crank cap, here is what I found. A shitty worn out rope seal that was likely doing nothing anymore. Getting the half piece removed from above the crank was a bit nerve wracking. I expected that with the age of the rope that it would be rotten and brittle. Much to my surprise, I got a hold of the end that was offset in the channel and pulled it right out with a pair of needle nose pliers. With that I commenced trying to slide the new rubber seal in above the crank. What a pain. The seal is, of course, tight in the channel so getting started was a challenge. I then turned the crank a few times around to try to draw the seal in. That worked to a limited degree. The rest of the way, I had to hold the seal against the crank to keep it aligned with the channel and push the other end of the seal with my other hand using pressure to push it into place. The last half inch, I used a flat long piece of wood and a hammer to tap it the rest of the way. I left it offset just like the rope seal was originally oriented. This job proved to be a slight challenge just like everything else on this car. It does not help that the transmission cooler lines run right below this area so it's not easy to get tools in there and impossible to get hands in there. I ended up having to reach in between the engine and the cross member to do the finagling. After the round seal was in place, now came the side seals. Those bastards are so tight, it makes getting the cap back in a challenge. Once that is in and the two bolts are holding it in place, you have to try to drive the pins in for the side seals. Try doing that without being able to use a hammer directly on them. So, at this point, the pins are driven half way in and they just keep bending. I may try to loosen the cap bolts a bit to see if that helps, otherwise I may just cut the pins off as they are and hope that the side seals are tight enough. I don't like that answer, but not sure how else to drive them home.

Also as a part of this, I need to figure out how to seal up the oil pan drain. Doesn't matter what combo of things I use, the damn thing still leaks. Can get it nice and tight, but doesn't matter. Still leaks. This, of course, is making a mess of the underside.

[LithiumCobalt]

I'm getting ready to tear apart a good majority of the front suspension and rebuild it. I've got most all of the parts just waiting in the garage. Now I need to get off my lazy ass and get it done before it starts getting warmer. Has anyone replaced the front wheel bearings? What is involved with the process? Couldn't find anything in previous threads.

[Steve K]

I've done front wheel bearings on a 64. Not much to it. Pull the drums, load the new bearings with grease, and insert same. Here's the cliff notes:

Removing the Wheel Bearings
Step 1
Park your vehicle on a level surface.

Step 2
Loosen the wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench on the wheel/tire assembly you will be working on.

Step 3
Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand.

Step 4
Remove the wheel/tire assembly.

Step 5
Detach the grease cap from the brake drum using a screwdriver and a hammer.

Step 6
Remove the cotter pin that secures the nut lock and adjusting nut in place.

Step 7
Pull the nut lock from the axle with a pair of nose pliers.

Step 8
Unscrew the adjusting nut using an axle nut socket and ratchet.

Step 9
Pull the washer from the axle using the nose pliers.

Step 10
Wiggle the brake drum, if necessary, to pull the outer wheel bearing free from the axle.

Step 11
Detach the brake drum from the brake assembly.

Step 12
Lay the brake drum on a workbench and remove the grease seal and inner bearing from the back of the drum using a screwdriver.

Remove the inner and outer races from the drum using a large drift punch and hammer. Be careful to avoid damage to the hub.

Installing the New Wheel Bearings
Step 1
Clean thoroughly the hub and drum using brake parts cleaner and a shop rag or lint-free towel.

Step 2
Drive the new inner and outer races in place using a driving tool.

Step 3
Grease the inner wheel bearing with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease using a bearing packer.

Step 4
Place the packed inner-wheel bearing on its race inside the hub.

Step 5
Fill partially the cavity inside the hub with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease.

Step 6
Install a new grease seal using the driving tool.

Step 7
Clean thoroughly the spindle on the axle assembly by using brake parts cleaner and a lint-free towel.

Step 8
Replace the brake drum on the wheel assembly.

Step 9
Grease the outer wheel bearing with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease, using a bearing packer and installing it on its race inside the hub.

Step 10
Insert the washer and screw the adjusting nut by hand.

Step 11
Ask a helper to rotate the wheel assembly as you tighten the adjusting nut to the torque specified by your vehicle manufacturer. Use a torque wrench and the axle nut socket. You may find the torque specification for your car make and model on your vehicle service manual. See the Tip box for more information.

Step 12
Rotate the adjusting nut counterclockwise about 1/2 turn using the axle nut socket and ratchet.

Step 13
Tighten the adjusting nut to the specification listed in your vehicle service manual, using the axle nut socket and torque wrench.

Step 14
Fit the nut lock in place. Then insert and bend a new cotter pin to secure the adjusting nut and nut lock in place. Use the nose pliers.

Step 15
Replace the grease cap.

Step 16
Install the wheel/tire assembly and tighten the wheel lug nuts using the lug wrench.

Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the lug nuts.

[LithiumCobalt]

Sounds easy enough. I’ve never done this job on anything I’ve owned. I suspect that these have never been changed on my car. Considering how cheap they are, seems like a no brainer to get it done while everything is apart. Sounds like the key is plenty of grease. I leafed through the shop manual and seems like they have a new weird alien looking Rotunda tool for doing just about every single job.

[LithiumCobalt]

Got my sedan out a couple of days ago to take for a quick spin because roads were good and dry and no salt to speak of. Immediately noticed the brake pedal travel appeared to be slightly excessive. Pedal almost all the way down and not stopping the best. No brake light indicator illuminated, though. As I drove around, I realized the warning indicator would illuminate coming to a stop as I pressed the brake pedal the farthest. Didn't get too far before turning around and coming home. Opened up the master cylinder and the secondary reservoir was empty again. WTF. Looked at the line I replaced last year and it still leaks. Apparently enough to empty the secondary reservoir over time. What I am confused by is that if the secondary was empty, shouldn't I still have had more than adequate braking if the fronts were working correctly? Had plenty of fluid in the primary reservoir. I am thinking I have a bad master cylinder. I know the front brake lines are original so those will be getting changed. I guess replacing the master at the same time might be in order. Trying to decide if I pull the booster too. Being 53 years old, it's probably due for a refresh.

[TonyC]

I can give a bit of input on that. First, fix the leak, then see how the braking operates. I know how much of a pain replacing some lines can be; I had to do the replacement of the rear flex line twice, because the first time I did it I cross-threaded the brass block when I tried screwing in the steel lines. Careful attention must be given to every screw-on part, to make sure that doesn't happen. After you get that leak sealed, give the car a test. If the master cylinder has gone bad, you should know if the pedal seems to sink while you're stopped with your foot on the pedal. That is the usual symptom of a bad master. As for the booster, I wouldn't bother if it is working properly. But, check for fluid leaks into the booster from the master; if brake fluid gets in there, then you will need Booster Dewey's services. If it's dry, and you don't have to stand on the pedal to slow the car down, then your booster is likely okay. I think one thing to check is the condition of the check valve: It is supposed to hold vacuum in there for a while after the engine is turned off, to give one or two power-assisted applications. If that is not the case with yours, the check valve has gone bad. It isn't a concern for normal use, but you won't have power assist after the engine is off. Unfortunately, OEM valves are almost impossible to find; but there is a way to get around that, I've learned, with what is available on the HELP! rack.

Something I wanted to ask regarding your bottom oil leak: Have you manage to seal the leak in the back? I came across the very same problems you had with new rear seals: Because the synthetic rubber is not designed to expand when oil hits it, as the old seals used to, the side seals will have a tendency to leak. And those drive pins that come with the seals are all but impossible to drive in without bending them, because they're just too thick...and they don't do that much to make the side seals oil-tight, anyway. I think I prefer the old type of side seals that expanded when oil hit them, sealing off the sides of the rear main bearing cap in the process. But I did a work-around that has sealed that same leak in Frankenstein: Instead of using the pins, use "The Right Stuff" sealant on the side seals and the bearing cap. The side seals go in pretty tight anyway when the bearing cap is installed, just not tight enough to seal against pressurized oil. Using "The Right Stuff" (the black version) on those side seals, and also thin layers at the top sides of the cap, will do the trick.

---Tony

[LithiumCobalt]

Tony, I maybe get a couple of drips letting the car sit for extended periods of time, but not from the rear main area any longer. Looking back, I should have used some sealant on top of the side seals before I put everything in place, but I did not. Those side seals are a real PITA. I got the pins in possibly halfway and just snapped them off and called it good. What I have is certainly a A LOT better than the original rope seal. The bottom half was just hanging once I took the cap down and the top didn’t pose a challenge to get out. Suspect neither side was holding back much of anything anymore. I had a lot more oil dripping with the original setup, so it appears the new neoprene stuff is doing its job.

As far as the master cylinder goes, it also leaks from the top. The edges are all corroded and the whole thing just looks rather tatty. I’m going to just throw a new one on since I’m replacing the front rubber hoses anyways and see how it goes.