Newchapters wrote:Ok guys. I have been working when I have time. Found out a couple of things like don't try and put this engine on a 1000 lbs engine stand. It bent and almost broke like a Popsicle stick. they let me exchange it for a 2000 lbs engine stand.
Yup. First lesson learned is that 1000lb stands are for 400lb engines, not 750lb engines.
Thats holding it just fine but hard to turn.
It's because of the sheer weight and the lack of a decent bearing surface upon which to rotate. Normal.
I have taken oil pan off and found no pieces of or metal in it. A lot of dirty oil.
That's a good sign. The oil is typical if the car has not been running newer, modern detergent oils. Mine was clean as a whistle inside in 2006 at 90,000 miles.
I also got the exhaust manifold off and would like to have them machined flat and powder coated black. Would the powder coat stand up to the head on the manifolds?
Regular powder might not, but high temp powder will. I recommend cast iron grey instead of black for that "brand new" manifold look, but to each his own. Definitely have the mating surfaces machined.
I found that the is a small crack where the black on the exhaust manifold meet. Will that cause and issue?
Yes, it will. Broken ears are common on this head design. I recommend you replace the head unless you can find a shop that can do a repair. The iron is soft and not a very good material for welding.
I also got the torque converter off and fly wheel. What are the recordation to do with these items. I will keep update of my slow progress and if anyone have recommendation my ears are open.
Torque converter does it need anything done to it?
Now is the time to replace the TC and have the transmission completely rebuilt and gone through by a good shop you can trust. Save and clean the filter. You will not be able to find a replacement for a good price.
Check the flywheel for cracks and broken teeth. If OK, reuse it.
Exhaust manifolds can the be powder coated and should they be machined flat?
Yes and yes.
Does the rust have to be cleaning off the flywheel and is it worth painting? what to look for on them?
No and No. Cracks and broken teeth.
I am going to remove my distributor. should I have the engine top dead center when doing this and is there away to mark it for easy reinstall?
Yes and take a picture of the position of the rotor with respect to the engine and dizzy base/housing.
I am going to redo the head gaskets , intake and exhaust valves, push rods, valve springs, valve lifters and valve seats anything else while I am in there.
Flush out the cooling galleys and replace the freeze plugs and drain plug (noted above).
Going to clean all the oil off block and paint with engine paint.
what are the little small circle with a bolt in them. Are they freeze plugs or engine plugs?
Also where to go to get water pump rebuilt
where to goto get power steering rebuilt
look for a rebuilder locally. Call around.
