Taking engine out of 1962

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black63lincoln
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by black63lincoln »

Im still pretty new to air ride. I got the Choppin Block front and rear and E-level from Phil Blottie at Twisted Images. He might be able to get you a trans tunnel. If you are on the slabs FB group there is tons of info there on it.
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

I was lucky enough to get a car that already had a bc fab kit in it but no electric controls just up and down front and back switches. It works! Thanks I looked on slabs fb and saw a lot of nice cars but couldn't fine anything about the trans tunnel. I also emailed mobsteel and have not got any response back. I hope that I dont have to cut a huge part out and found a guy local that said he would weld it up once I got the cutting done. I just have to get him the tunnel I want to use.
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

Working on putting my front suspension back after powder coating and cleaning it all up. I am just having the issue of getting the bushings in. I got the front ones in fine but the back busing on each side only go in up to the lip one the middle of the bushing and will not go anymore. As you can see in the picture it bent one of the bushing and the other piece broke half off. It will not move anymore. Is it suppose to be like this and is the broken one and issue. thanks
Attachments
will not got any more past lip in middle of bushing broke off metal
will not got any more past lip in middle of bushing broke off metal
IMG_1025.jpg
is that far enough in. It like that on both top back bushing. Front one went in fine
is that far enough in. It like that on both top back bushing. Front one went in fine
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Dan Szwarc
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Dan Szwarc »

What's that huge washer doing on the inside of the control arm on the shaft? Shouldn't those only be on the outside?

Did you powdercoat your control arms? Did you grind out the coating inside where the bushing presses in? If not, that's why it won't go in as easily as it should. Even a few thousandths of an inch of paint can severely affect this interference fit!
Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

Yes and I just say a video of someone saying to grind the inside if they were powder coated and to also put in bushing in freezer. Stupid me but the crazy thing is all the other bushing went in fine except both of these busing on each control arm.How far is the that bushing suppose to go in. When I look at pictures of the same car control arm it look like it suppose to stop at the first raised lip on the bushing? Do you think I will have to get new bushing because one is missing some metal and the other is bend a little? thanks

Also that is the washer is the one washer that is on each upper arm inner shaft according to the owners manual and it was on there when I took it off. Part number 3A276
SS-CA61-64L(3079)_large.jpg
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Dan Szwarc
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Dan Szwarc »

OK. 66s don't have that inner washer. If it was there, then it is correct.

You're supposed to press both bushings on equally until the shaft is "captured". Tightening the shaft end nuts fixes the rotation of the shaft to the bushing and arms and is done on the car.
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

I looked in the owners manual and pictures i could find show the rear upper inner shaft bushing looks like it only goes in until the middle of the upper control arm. The owners manual says press the bushing in until the shoulder stop is reached. I dont know if that the line 1/2 way in on the bushing but in all the picture it looks like everyone has installed it based on that. does anyone know if thats where your suppose to stop. I dont want install it wrong thanks
you can see the bigger bushing has a lip 1/2 way up> is that the shoulder they are talking about it stopping there because it looks like it like that in all the pictures and owners manual.
you can see the bigger bushing has a lip 1/2 way up> is that the shoulder they are talking about it stopping there because it looks like it like that in all the pictures and owners manual.
s-l500.jpg (18.77 KiB) Viewed 1088 times
same in this picture.
same in this picture.
same thing in owners manual
same thing in owners manual
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you can see how the rear bushing sticks out like all the other pictures.
you can see how the rear bushing sticks out like all the other pictures.
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

I think I might have to have Dan move this to member project!
Some up dates finally got all the suspension parts in, disc brake kit installed and trans tunnel started. I put tires on and lowered it before I tightened all the upper sway bar bolts. Next I have to decide if I should rebuild the transmission when I have the engine done.
A couple of questions. Did I install the sway bar right. I think I did but the repair manual is no help with the picture and the sway bar is not the same left and right.How far should the trans tunnel be cut back? What should I use on the wheel well splash shield because they used cut up tires around the shield and parts in the wheel well. Thanks
Is the sway bar installed the right way
Is the sway bar installed the right way
Is the sway bar installed the right way
Is the sway bar installed the right way
What do you use to replace the cut up rubber tires they used around the edges of the back wheel well splash shield and in wheel well areas.
What do you use to replace the cut up rubber tires they used around the edges of the back wheel well splash shield and in wheel well areas.
Finally moving forward with my check list
Finally moving forward with my check list
tires on after so long
tires on after so long
I should of not cut so wide but how fall should I got forward with the cut
I should of not cut so wide but how fall should I got forward with the cut
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Dan Szwarc
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Dan Szwarc »

Newchapters wrote:I think I might have to have Dan move this to member project!
Moved to member projects.
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Flaco11b
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Flaco11b »

Those rims look nice!


Did you ever rewire your car I know you had mentioned it before.
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

thanks Dan and thanks Flaco. They were on the car when I got it. 22 inch and the ride is a little ruff because of the low profile tires but should be a little better now that I have all new suspension and the air bags in front are in the correct positions. Yes I still have the kit waiting to be done on my check list. I want to get all the stuff done so I can roll the car and I am going to pull all the wiring I dont need. Por 15 all the inside and install a vintage air unit. I just have to cover up the holes left from the blower and heater core.
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

live and learn on trimming trans tunnel metal. Don't need to make it that big and trim it like I did the second go around. I have the dash all apart and will paint and am working on por 15 the inside of car. I am moving along with my check list and getting stuff done. Some day I will be able to drive it. She's laying low and thanks for all the info, photos and inspiration to get the car done.
Attachments
Cut metal like this not like I did the first time.
Cut metal like this not like I did the first time.
IMG_1322.jpg
Thats a cluster of wires.
Thats a cluster of wires.
IMG_1328.jpg
Dash is so much lighter without all the stuff on it.
Dash is so much lighter without all the stuff on it.
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

got the inside cleaned and por 15 the whole inside. After that I added fat mat to help with the sound so when I put new carpet and head liner in it will be nice and quite. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what color of window switch is what. I have and electrical manual but the copy is very bad and I went through a lot of the post and so far have found that the thick green wire is ground, the thin red is up and thin yellow is down but what is the thick black wire.I read it extra positive power to help the window go up and down? How should it be wired or what wire needs to go to it. I am going to have to replace all the wire because it is so stiff and brittle. A lot of the wire covering is coming off. Is the thin red and yellow wire 16 gauge and the thick green and red is 12 gauge? I My next step is rewiring the whole car with the american auto wire highway 22 and upgrade all the window and add power door locks. Vacuum no more. Any recommendation for what wire to use for the power windows or what brand to use? I see that most kits come with all the wiring but it very thin maybe 16 gauge wire. Do I have to use 11 gauge for the thick wire? thanks for all the help
Attachments
What colors are what. Big green is negative, think red is up, thin yellow down and thick red is also positive wire?
What colors are what. Big green is negative, think red is up, thin yellow down and thick red is also positive wire?
should proof the roof
should proof the roof
sound proof the inside of car
sound proof the inside of car
before
before
make sure you seal the seams before you por 15 lol
make sure you seal the seams before you por 15 lol
por 15 the whole inside
por 15 the whole inside
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black63lincoln
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by black63lincoln »

Lookin Good! Is the rear the only place your drive line touched?
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Newchapters
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Re: Taking engine out of 1962

Post by Newchapters »

thanks but its taking so long and I just want to drive the car. As you can see in the picture I cut the back and open up right in front of the big hump but when I aired out the car I saw it still hit right there the hump is. I would have to drop the drive tran and maybe grind the spot down. I dont think I am going to do this because the is all the air out of the bags and I will not be driving my car like that way to low and to much risk of damaging engine and other stuff.
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