Project 64
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Project 64
Decided to start a new thread to document my 64 LC Custom. I will have to say after looking at some of the other projects on the forum mine is just getting started, though I have seen a lot of great ideas and wanted to share what I have been doing with Project 64.
I just recently restored the fuel tank. I purchased the POR fuel tank restoration kit, stripped the outside of the tank and painted it using POR silver, a few threads on here have documented removing/reinstalling the tank and the only thing I can add to the mix is when reinstalling the tank I just couldn't get enough clearance even with the shocks disconnected, so I disconnected the rear axle springs by the bumper, put a floor jack under the rear-end and then had plenty of room to install the tank without worry about scratching it up. Also I placed food wrap on the tank to protect it during this operation.
Another project was that the axle cover housing was leaking. Purchased a gasket from NAPA, removed the axle cover, did the same POR Silver treatment to it, scraped off the old gasket and added some gasket sealent as the guy at NAPA said it was cheap insurance to make sure it didn't leak again. I waited a couple of days before refilling the rear axle and no more leaks.
I have a few pics I will upload once I get the size under the 512kb requirement.
I just recently restored the fuel tank. I purchased the POR fuel tank restoration kit, stripped the outside of the tank and painted it using POR silver, a few threads on here have documented removing/reinstalling the tank and the only thing I can add to the mix is when reinstalling the tank I just couldn't get enough clearance even with the shocks disconnected, so I disconnected the rear axle springs by the bumper, put a floor jack under the rear-end and then had plenty of room to install the tank without worry about scratching it up. Also I placed food wrap on the tank to protect it during this operation.
Another project was that the axle cover housing was leaking. Purchased a gasket from NAPA, removed the axle cover, did the same POR Silver treatment to it, scraped off the old gasket and added some gasket sealent as the guy at NAPA said it was cheap insurance to make sure it didn't leak again. I waited a couple of days before refilling the rear axle and no more leaks.
I have a few pics I will upload once I get the size under the 512kb requirement.
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- GasTankPorSilver.JPG (96.16 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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- GasTankPorSilver2.JPG (118.46 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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- RearAxleCoverInstalled.jpg (99.12 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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- RearAxleCoverNapaGasket.jpg (81.78 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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- RearAxleCoverPorSilver.jpg (162.33 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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- RearAxleInternals.jpg (150.05 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
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Re: Project 64
Here is my initial build sheet ideas for Project 64. Comments welcome. It will be interesting to see when Project 64 is completed how close the initial build sheet is to the completed project.
Body
Remove B Pillar per convertible specs
Relocate front turn signals into bumper ends and use LED strip lights or would the 65 front turn signal lenses work in the bumper ends???
Relocate reverse lights into bumper ends and use LED strip lights
Stainless exhaust and exit the exhaust through the reverse light openings
65 Caged Rear Lights
Engine
Moon Valve Covers
Powermaster PWM-47759 200amp Alternator
MSD Ignition
Magnecor KV85 Competition (8.5mm) Ignition Cables
Two SPAL radiator fans
Some type of aftermarket air cleaner assembly
GearStar Performance transmission
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Tires
Custom springs for desired ride height
SRT-8 Jeep Grand Cherokee Brembo Red Calipers and Drilled/Slotted rotors front and rear
20 inch rims with 245/40ZR20 front and 275/40ZR20 rear
Interior
Modern 3-point safety belts
Front bucket seats and console
Interior done in a Ferrari 456/Bentley Continental type motif
Body
Remove B Pillar per convertible specs
Relocate front turn signals into bumper ends and use LED strip lights or would the 65 front turn signal lenses work in the bumper ends???
Relocate reverse lights into bumper ends and use LED strip lights
Stainless exhaust and exit the exhaust through the reverse light openings
65 Caged Rear Lights
Engine
Moon Valve Covers
Powermaster PWM-47759 200amp Alternator
MSD Ignition
Magnecor KV85 Competition (8.5mm) Ignition Cables
Two SPAL radiator fans
Some type of aftermarket air cleaner assembly
GearStar Performance transmission
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Tires
Custom springs for desired ride height
SRT-8 Jeep Grand Cherokee Brembo Red Calipers and Drilled/Slotted rotors front and rear
20 inch rims with 245/40ZR20 front and 275/40ZR20 rear
Interior
Modern 3-point safety belts
Front bucket seats and console
Interior done in a Ferrari 456/Bentley Continental type motif
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Re: Project 64
In a couple of the other threads you may have noticed that I have been trying to do some research on removing the B pillar on the sedan so that it looks like the convertible. A few guys on the forum have done it and provided some general guidelines on what they did. If you look at the circled area on the attached picture, this is a 65 convertible pic that I found. You will notice that the door has a larger cutout than what the sedan has. Sorry I don't have a sedan door pic to upload for reference.
It is my theory at this time is that if you make a similar cut on the sedan door (maybe you need to modify the track as well), that you could attach a piece of weather stripping to the rear window glass and close the gap between the front and rear windows. My sedan has a max gap of 1 1/8" at the bottom between the doors and a little less at the top. The auto retract for the window would be a nice option though I don't think it is required to make the modification work.
It is my theory at this time is that if you make a similar cut on the sedan door (maybe you need to modify the track as well), that you could attach a piece of weather stripping to the rear window glass and close the gap between the front and rear windows. My sedan has a max gap of 1 1/8" at the bottom between the doors and a little less at the top. The auto retract for the window would be a nice option though I don't think it is required to make the modification work.
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- 65 Lincoln Convertible Doors Open_Circled.jpg (78.76 KiB) Viewed 2756 times
- AnthLinc
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Re: Project 64
Supposing you are NOT going the whole route that Todd aka black63 did. He did an amazing job by the way.
I've had both convetibles and sedans so I understand your question. In your case if you are just going to install the vert rear door glass you have to modify the door in the area that is circled in your picture. Yes you will have the gap and have to figure out a way in which to seal the doors so they can open and close with out inteference. The leading edge of the glass has a channel perhaps you can make a spring loaded seal that floats. This seal can press into place when closing the door. The seal would have to be made of hard rubber. Keep in mind that the vert glass is made about an inch wider to fill in the space of the b-piller. One idea is to look at the 1957-58 suicide door Cadillac Eldorado broughams. Those cars were pillerless suicide door cars with a spring loaded seal. Perhaps you can find a picture of the set up.
Perhaps if Lincoln used this design their profits could have been higher limiting all of the extra wires, relay, switches and misc hardware. In addition the sedan could have been a 4 door hard top with no difference between the convertible.
One over looked issue is that if the rear doors do not lower you many have issues with the lower edge of the rear glass rubbing against the front door. This is common on verts with non-working rear windows.
This is very important. I know that:
61-63 sedan/vert glass will line up with the c-piller.
66-67 sedan/vert glass has a different slope at the c-piller so restructuring would need to be done
64-65 I do not know if the c-piller slope is the same between both models
Before considering anything make sure the back edge of the vert glass matches the c-piller on your sedan
I've had both convetibles and sedans so I understand your question. In your case if you are just going to install the vert rear door glass you have to modify the door in the area that is circled in your picture. Yes you will have the gap and have to figure out a way in which to seal the doors so they can open and close with out inteference. The leading edge of the glass has a channel perhaps you can make a spring loaded seal that floats. This seal can press into place when closing the door. The seal would have to be made of hard rubber. Keep in mind that the vert glass is made about an inch wider to fill in the space of the b-piller. One idea is to look at the 1957-58 suicide door Cadillac Eldorado broughams. Those cars were pillerless suicide door cars with a spring loaded seal. Perhaps you can find a picture of the set up.
Perhaps if Lincoln used this design their profits could have been higher limiting all of the extra wires, relay, switches and misc hardware. In addition the sedan could have been a 4 door hard top with no difference between the convertible.
One over looked issue is that if the rear doors do not lower you many have issues with the lower edge of the rear glass rubbing against the front door. This is common on verts with non-working rear windows.
This is very important. I know that:
61-63 sedan/vert glass will line up with the c-piller.
66-67 sedan/vert glass has a different slope at the c-piller so restructuring would need to be done
64-65 I do not know if the c-piller slope is the same between both models
Before considering anything make sure the back edge of the vert glass matches the c-piller on your sedan
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3806837
[ 1966 Lincoln Conv't ]
[ 1966 Lincoln Conv't Parts Car ]
[ 1972 Lincoln Limo ]
[ 1966 Lincoln Conv't ]
[ 1966 Lincoln Conv't Parts Car ]
[ 1972 Lincoln Limo ]
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Re: Project 64
I totally agree with you, black63lincoln and sclair4 have two amazing builds, both have been inspiring.
[quote="AnthLinc"]Supposing you are NOT going the whole route that Todd aka black63 did. He did an amazing job by the way.
[quote="AnthLinc"]Supposing you are NOT going the whole route that Todd aka black63 did. He did an amazing job by the way.
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Re: Project 64
I have acquired a set of bucket seats and the console for Project 64. Based on rarity I snatched them up even though it will be a while before I am working on the interior.
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- BucketSeats1.jpg (127.92 KiB) Viewed 2607 times
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- BucketSeats3.jpg (124.4 KiB) Viewed 2607 times
- NewLincolnMan
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Re: Project 64
Nice find. Where'd those come from? How much? If you don't mind me asking?
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Re: Project 64
They were an Ebay find. Sometimes I have found that people don't make it easier to find what they are selling on Ebay. I saw another set of bucket seats sell for over $1500.00 without the console. These were considerably less but not cheap.
NewLincolnMan wrote:Nice find. Where'd those come from? How much? If you don't mind me asking?
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Re: Project 64
Another forum member xjnation posted some pics of his car with 20 inch Dodge steel wheels. Well I took a leap of faith, ordered some wheels adapters and found a set of four Dodge Ram Steel wheels and did a test fit on the car. The wheels fit great, the studs on the rear are fine, the fronts are a little short though since I am going to do a big brake kit I can determine the correct length then.
I have a few ideas for these wheels.
1) Just leave them as is, use them as a temp/shop set of wheels until I get a set of Asanti or other alloy wheels
2) Paint them, ideas are welcome
3) Get some custom hubcaps made, maybe using the center section of the originals
4) Find some off the shelf 20 inch hubcaps
Next on the agenda is to find the largest rotors/calipers I can put on the car. I really like the SRT-8 Calipers/Rotors discussed in another thread, though I would to see if any larger options are available before a final decision is made.
I have a few ideas for these wheels.
1) Just leave them as is, use them as a temp/shop set of wheels until I get a set of Asanti or other alloy wheels
2) Paint them, ideas are welcome
3) Get some custom hubcaps made, maybe using the center section of the originals
4) Find some off the shelf 20 inch hubcaps
Next on the agenda is to find the largest rotors/calipers I can put on the car. I really like the SRT-8 Calipers/Rotors discussed in another thread, though I would to see if any larger options are available before a final decision is made.
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- DriverSideDodgeWheels.jpg (145.71 KiB) Viewed 2511 times
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- RearDodgeWheel.jpg (123.53 KiB) Viewed 2511 times
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Re: Project 64
I have been working on media blasting the floor pans on Project 64. The metal is in really good shape once you get all of the undercoating off of it.
I see a few options once I am done with media blasting and as always please chime in with what has worked for you.
1) POR 15 - This for me is for a show car and since my car is going to be driven I am not sure if this is the best solution.
2) 3M Undercoating in a can - You can see in a few of the other pics I did use this method from the C pillar to the rear bumper, it looks okay, is easily touched up, but in general doesn't show off all the hard work that was done to media blast the underside of the car.
3) Duplicolor Bed Liner - This is just one of several products that I see folks are using for undercoating. Has anyone tried one of these products? The idea of brushing it on seems to make it an easier job then spraying something.
4) LizardSkin - It needs to be sprayed on, though with minimal thickness you would still be able to see all the factory spot welds and provides temp and sound control.
For anyone thinking about media blasting the underside of the car, it is a real project. I'm surprised with how long it takes, even with aggressive media; it is not a single weekend type of job.
I see a few options once I am done with media blasting and as always please chime in with what has worked for you.
1) POR 15 - This for me is for a show car and since my car is going to be driven I am not sure if this is the best solution.
2) 3M Undercoating in a can - You can see in a few of the other pics I did use this method from the C pillar to the rear bumper, it looks okay, is easily touched up, but in general doesn't show off all the hard work that was done to media blast the underside of the car.
3) Duplicolor Bed Liner - This is just one of several products that I see folks are using for undercoating. Has anyone tried one of these products? The idea of brushing it on seems to make it an easier job then spraying something.
4) LizardSkin - It needs to be sprayed on, though with minimal thickness you would still be able to see all the factory spot welds and provides temp and sound control.
For anyone thinking about media blasting the underside of the car, it is a real project. I'm surprised with how long it takes, even with aggressive media; it is not a single weekend type of job.
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- PassSidefloorpanOriginal.jpg (136.38 KiB) Viewed 2424 times
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- DriverSideFloorPanMediaBlasted2.JPG (85.08 KiB) Viewed 2424 times
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- DriverSideFloorPanMediaBlasted.JPG (105.34 KiB) Viewed 2424 times
- birdster64
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Re: Project 64
[quote="suicidedoors1964"] Well I took a leap of faith, ordered some wheels adapters and found a set of four Dodge Ram Steel wheels and did a test fit on the car. The wheels fit great, the studs on the rear are fine, the fronts are a little short though since I am going to do a big brake kit I can determine the correct length then.
Mooneyes makes screw on covers any size. Not too cheap($55 each), but that would be slick! I don't know if I like the idea of the adapters though?
Mooneyes makes screw on covers any size. Not too cheap($55 each), but that would be slick! I don't know if I like the idea of the adapters though?
1964 Continental Sedan (long term resto)
2014 Fusion, 2012 Fiat 500 Abarth
2005 H-D Dyna Wide Glide
1971 H-D Custom shovelhead chopper
1954 Willys Wagon, 1992 Jeep Comanche (organ donor)
2014 Fusion, 2012 Fiat 500 Abarth
2005 H-D Dyna Wide Glide
1971 H-D Custom shovelhead chopper
1954 Willys Wagon, 1992 Jeep Comanche (organ donor)
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Re: Project 64
I'm not sure I am the biggest fan of wheel adapters either, which is why I think once the project is finished I will look for some alloy wheels, but until then I can get the big brake kit installed using these wheels and for less than $1k you can get four 20 inch steel wheels, the adapters and tires. That is a pretty decent price for a 20 inch wheel/tire upgrade.
Regarding the Mooneye covers, a decent option, though I would like to figure out how to use the center section of the original hubcaps with them.
Regarding the Mooneye covers, a decent option, though I would like to figure out how to use the center section of the original hubcaps with them.
birdster64 wrote: Mooneyes makes screw on covers any size. Not too cheap($55 each), but that would be slick! I don't know if I like the idea of the adapters though?
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Re: Project 64
I am still media-blasting and will be for another couple of weeks, though here are a few of the latest pics. Decided to remove the drive-shaft, rear-end, leaf springs and gas tank. After looking over a few of the options below I am going to go with POR to really show off all the work that went into restoring the undercarriage. After this is complete I am going to strip the interior and trunk and spray Lizard Skin on the inside. I will be happy to move on from media blasting as it it one dirty job that takes forever.
suicidedoors1964 wrote:I have been working on media blasting the floor pans on Project 64. The metal is in really good shape once you get all of the undercoating off of it.
I see a few options once I am done with media blasting and as always please chime in with what has worked for you.
1) POR 15 - This for me is for a show car and since my car is going to be driven I am not sure if this is the best solution.
2) 3M Undercoating in a can - You can see in a few of the other pics I did use this method from the C pillar to the rear bumper, it looks okay, is easily touched up, but in general doesn't show off all the hard work that was done to media blast the underside of the car.
3) Duplicolor Bed Liner - This is just one of several products that I see folks are using for undercoating. Has anyone tried one of these products? The idea of brushing it on seems to make it an easier job then spraying something.
4) LizardSkin - It needs to be sprayed on, though with minimal thickness you would still be able to see all the factory spot welds and provides temp and sound control.
For anyone thinking about media blasting the underside of the car, it is a real project. I'm surprised with how long it takes, even with aggressive media; it is not a single weekend type of job.
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- CenterSectionFacingForward.jpg (99.29 KiB) Viewed 2093 times
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- CenterSectionFacingRearward.jpg (106.76 KiB) Viewed 2093 times
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- RearInnerFenderDriverSide.jpg (108.44 KiB) Viewed 2093 times
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Re: Project 64
Here are a few pictures after media blasting and POR. Excuse the dust as the black POR shows everything. I guess that is the good and bad as you can see every factory spot weld and when you look at what I started with it is hard to believe that a new Lincoln was waiting to be found.
Next I will be working on getting the leaf springs and rear-end cleaned up and reinstalled. Question, does anyone know why all the holes on the bottom of the car have rubber plugs in them? I would think it is too keep the water out but isn't it more likely that it keeps water from draining out? Part of me is thinking to just leave them out.
Next I will be working on getting the leaf springs and rear-end cleaned up and reinstalled. Question, does anyone know why all the holes on the bottom of the car have rubber plugs in them? I would think it is too keep the water out but isn't it more likely that it keeps water from draining out? Part of me is thinking to just leave them out.
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- RearCenterSectionFacingRearPOR.jpg (100.61 KiB) Viewed 1983 times
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- RearCenterSectionFacingForwardPOR.jpg (105.99 KiB) Viewed 1983 times
- ReijerLincoln
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Re: Project 64
Wow... that's looking really good!
Two thumbs up!
Two thumbs up!
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