Lower top cylinder bracket broke clean off

[1966BlackonBlackConv]

I have owned this 1966 less than a week. I love it. The car is in great condition was well cared for. It sat in heated storage for a long time. Every thing is stock except an electric fuel pump. Everything works except the clock.

I have operated the top twice. First time there were no obvious issues. Second time the deck opened and went to the top erect portion of the cycle. The top had just started to raise out of the trunk. I noticed the left top cylinder was leaking and stopped. I noticed the connector on the top portion of the cylinder was bent, and there was damage to the cylinder. I ordered a new hose kit to repair the connector issue. I now just found that the lower bracket is broke off clean from the trunk bed. I do not believe the the top would raise if one of the cylinders is not mounted to the car? Was it broken before I got it? I think it broke the first time I raised and lowered it- but never heard or saw any issues.

I have the shop manual and the conv./window manual and didn't find a reference to raising the roof by hand. I need advice. Is it possible to remove the other cylinder and raise it by hand- with out causing any damage? I need to make as much room as possible for the welder.

[Dan Szwarc]

I've had my 66 for 23 years. I had this issue fixed back in 2000. It's nothing new. Sorry you had to find out about it the hard way.

The fix is easy if you can weld or find a shop that can do it. I did all the prep and cleaning for them. They did the welding.

To avoid this, the top needs to be lubricated to reduce the pivot friction and exercised often to avoid corrosion inside the pivots.

I do not believe the the top would raise if one of the cylinders is not mounted to the car?

It would twist the top into a pretzel.

Was it broken before I got it? I think it broke the first time I raised and lowered it- but never heard or saw any issues.

It's worked its way free over the years. You just happened to win the top breaking lottery that day.

I have the shop manual and the conv./window manual and didn't find a reference to raising the roof by hand. I need advice. Is it possible to remove the other cylinder and raise it by hand- with out causing any damage? I need to make as much room as possible for the welder.

Yes, but two very strong people must lift it evenly. Disconnect the cylinders by pulling the pins. You do not need to disconnect the hydraulics.

The shop manual won't have anything on this. You have to examine how it works and figure it out. It's not hard or that complicated. Everything comes apart.

Welcome to the forum! Welcome to the world of 4-door convertibles.

PS: Weld both sides.

[1966BlackonBlackConv]

Thanks Dan! I appreciate the "both sides" tip. Looks like you have the rubber hoses from Hydro- electric? How long have you had them in there? Are you happy with them?

[Dan Szwarc]

I had the rubbers custom made by a local hydraulic shop when my originals started leaking at the crimps. Paid like $75 instead of $150 or $300 from the Usual Suspects. They don’t look correct, but they don’t leak. They even matched the angles for easy mounting.

All my cylinders were replaced by Hydroe.com. Only my check valves leave a little.

[1966BlackonBlackConv]

Who do you recommend to buy hoses from? My local shop wanted $75 to replace one connector!

[Dan Szwarc]

Shop around the Usual Suspects (look for the thread) for the best price on stock lines then check your location hydraulic places (if you have any) for a quote to match the lines you have. I had spare lines from parts cars I dropped off to do this.
Shop around or just take the easy way out and pay Lincoln Land for a set.

Winter is coming, so if you have a heated garage, that’s the best time to remove parts for quotes.

Check out my 66 pics in my sig.

[1966BlackonBlackConv]

Its pretty cramped around it. Did they weld it with everything around it. Did you have to remove anything- that wasn't flammable.

I did look at you r pic's, nice work!

[Dan Szwarc]

I put the top up and removed the rear seat. They welded both sides. Make sure you remove the spare tire cover.
A good welding shop will throw a welding blanket over anything nearby. I didn’t even drain the hydraulics.

[bd94s10]

I purchased hoses from Hydro-E-Lectric: https://www.hydroe.com

They also have kits on their eBay store but I would call to see what they have. When I did my upgrade I changed everything. I did everything myself except bleed the system which wasn't that bad. Good luck fixing what Dan pointed out. I know you have a different year car but in case this help in anyway I figured I would share.

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFEpH4m0Uy0&t=12s
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2SywiDfMCg&t=35s
Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycOK_S5h9Ow&t=2s

PS, I had John Cashman on my podcast in the past. Check it out if you get time. https://lincolnaddict.podbean.com

Good luck,
Jason B.

[mge825y]

I had the same problem with a crack in one of the mounts for the hydraulic lifts. I did as Dan shared, I had the problem area welded and the others welded for good measure.

My convertible top lines and lifts were original with the brown hydraulic fluid. I replaced the motor, solenoids, lines and 4 lifts with a set from Hydro-e-lectric at https://www.hydroe.com.

Installing them was no big deal at all. I just took my time and replaced one component at a time. The thing that took the most time was bleeding the lines. Again, it wasn't hard, just time consuming. Plus, I lubricated the convertible top mechanism and have never had a single problem with it.

All the things I did were from the great advice I received on this forum. During the process of bleeding the lines, I did have the opportunity to speak to John Cashman and he instructed me with a tip for how to make a jumper for the trunks relay panel / power source so that I could work the top up and down (to bleed the lines) standing by the trunk's relay panel (instead of having to go back and forth to the drivers seat and using the top switch pull.

[JAB]

No one mentioned it, but the mounting point in the trunk is 100% incorrect and is a hack installation. Dans photos show the correct mounting point behind the back seat.
I am surprised that this would work at all without immediately breaking something.

You see something new every day. I thought I had seen it all.

John Brewer
Brewer Classic Lincoln
303 562-8368

[Dan Szwarc]

Wut, John?

[JAB]

I must have looked at those photos 15 times, but I could not see what was obvious.
My mind refused to see that the connection bracket had been pulled into the trunk.
I have never encountered this problem and did not know it was possible.
I will stick by "You see something new every day. I thought I had seen it all."

Sorry about the brain fart!
John

[Dan Szwarc]

I did the same thing when I saw your post!

[JAB]

Just my little way of keeping you on your toes!
John