Rebuilding the convertible top pump?

[Ken Stevens]

61 top works but moving the top is really slow. Deck lid moves right along and there are no leaks evident. I know I should replace the entire system with new, but that is not financially feasible right now. So I thought I would start by refreshing the pump with new o-rings and brushes. Is there a kit available that will work on my car? Found one on the Convertible Service site, but it was not listed as Lincoln specific.

Secondly, is there a method to empty the lines of old Type F so i can restart with fresh fluid?

[Ken Stevens]

Update: after talking with Hydro-e-electric, and with the fact the no leaks are evident, they thought it best to start with lubrication of all pivot points in the top and deck. Then pull all electrical connectors for the pump and solenoids and clean them off to improve conductivity. (Amazing how much schmutz was on the bullet connectors for this system.) After all was lubed and cleaned, the system was reawakened. I know I'm just buying time and postponing the inevitable, but right now time is what I can afford and my top lives another summer!

[Dan Szwarc]

Type F doesn’t go bad in a sealed system. Don’t bother.

Cleaning and lubricating is the best bang for the buck. Checking all the relay connections and verifying all is tight will help for voltage drop losses, too.

Ask Cashman how best to lubricate and what to use. He knows best.

[frasern]

Lincoln used brake fluid in 61 top pump. if yours has a.t.f. it has already been changed and may or may not have been flushed at that time.

[Dan Szwarc]

I think Ken’s car was converted years ago to ATF. Possibly by he, himself.

The fluid isn’t slowing the system down. Voltage drop probably is the culprit.

Make sure that the main power feed wires are secure to the relays in the trunk. There should also be a fusible link jumper from the battery side of the solenoid to a junction block where the two 8AWG wires that feed 12V to the trunk relay connects. Check it for tightness at both ends and “crunchiness” in the middle. If it’s crunchy, replace it. It is internally damaged and probably has high Resistance.

As for the pump motor, it’s a typical brushed motor. If you pull it and separate it from the pump, you can inspect the internals and probably take it to a local electric motor supply shop (we have those in the Detroit area). Maybe you can get a motor number off it so a ship can match brushes to it.

If you have a shop nearby, take it in.

It’s possible that you can find replacement brushes online if you get enough identifying marks. Maybe you can replace just the motor.

Good luck. Keep us apprised of your progress.

[frasern]

I have a 62 and a 67. The 62 is missing its pump, but when I install one, I will convert to A.T. F. as it is less corrosive, especially if spilled in trunk. I replaced a cylinder in the 67 and was sold a defective one (new) which would not extend, even with top disconnected. I ended up overheating the pump, and had to have a shop rebuild it. They said the brushes were easily found, turned the commutator, and charges less than $50.00. The vendor would not stand by their product and will not get any more business from me. I later ordered a top and cylinder from Hydro-E-Lectric and was very happy with them. The cylinder was probably made by the same manufacturer, anyone can have a dud.

[John Cashman]

All cars prior to 1964 had brake fluid in the convertible top hydraulic system.The only way to fix these cars is EVERYTHING new. There is no flushing the system out, forget it.You will never get all the brake fluid out, and even if you do the cylinders are 50+ years old and corroded on the inside and the internal seals will leak and bypass.We don’t even need to talk about 50+-year-old hoses... and forget trying to rebuild the pumps. You’re putting lipstick on a pig! Go with the brand new heavy duty,high volume pump motor units, they even come filled with ATF fluid! All these parts are available on my website store at convertiblelincolns.com