Relay adjustment

[AgeZap]

Hello,

I am aware a few guy on the forum rebuild relays, I am in Australia and would like to have a go myself, I have pulled the relays out and have pulled my first one apart.

What I would like to know is when the relays are in the vehcile with the vehicle running does the contact in the relay stay in the same a position?

I have seen a video awhile ago with John adjusting the rear window relay but wanted to know about adjusting the top relays?

Other than cleaning the contact points should I or can I bend/adjust the small arm in the relay? Is there any videos or threads on this?

Thank you

[AgeZap]

Also I have noticed some of the relays end in an 'A' and some end in a 'D'

What is the difference and does it matter where they go?

[Dan Szwarc]

Two configurations of relays. Didn't you notice?

[AgeZap]

They look the same internally?

I am pulling one off at a time, unsoldering it and pulling it apart. I've noticed the corrosion stuff on the points and I've cleaned them, also cleaning the body on the relays to make sure they are getting a good ground.

[Dan Szwarc]

You didn't notice the three different relays? The terminals?

Different part numbers of relays that appear the same could be service replacements.

Just be sure to assembly them in the same positions.

[AgeZap]

The relays for the deck lid unlock and deck lid open relays have proper plastic terminal plus that hold all the wires going to thag particular relay but the other relays for the top don't, they look like they may have been changed? Here is a picture(taken from in the trunk), do the wires look aftermarket ?

[Dan Szwarc]

The wires are original, but someone has removed the plastic connector shells from every relay. This was, no doubt, to fix a top or relay problem.

There is no such thing as aftermarket wires for a 66 convertible (not that I am aware), unless someone hacks and wacks away and changes the relays and wiring by splicing in replacement components. There may be a kit available, but yours is still 99% factory.

You're willing to open a relay and inspect it. I give you proper for that. There are many who will not even try.

To answer your original question:

Other than cleaning the contact points should I or can I bend/adjust the small arm in the relay? Is there any videos or threads on this?

I don't think you should mess with them. Very gently clean the relay contacts IF they are not still shiny. Filing them will actually damage them and reduce their life. You can bend the armature tab a little to reduce the movement of it, but otherwise, leave it.

The first one you posted still looks new. As long as water and dirt has not gotten inside, they should be fine. Clean them with contact cleaner spray.

If you know how to activate them using jumper wires to a battery, you can test each one by applying power across the coil. They should click firmly and distinctly. If you measure the resistance across the contacts, they should measure less than 0.5 Ohms, preferably 0.1 if you can exclude your test lead resistance.

If you can get your hands on proper connector shells, I recommend putting them back in. Parts in Australia are going to be hard to find. parts cars and wrecks are your only local source. I doubt there are many 66-67 Lincoln convertibles in Australian junk yards.

[AgeZap]

Great response Dan, Thank you.

The first relay I opened was the one pictured and I wasn't sure what to look for, when I opened up the next couple I soon found out what needed cleaning.

It clear the ones that need cleaning so I will do that and give everything a good clean, shine and reassemble. I don't think I will run the test of ohms as I haven't done that kinda thing since school, I can do more basic multimeter tasks like check voltage and switches but that's about it haha.

So I guess the next thing I would like to clear up is back to the two different part numbers, are the different relays just different orientated terminals? Or is there something different with the coil in them?
If so do they need to be in a specific place to run a specific motor/function?

Thanks

[Dan Szwarc]

These 3 are the same. The other five are the same.

No coil differences.

[AgeZap]

Oh OK, thank you.

[AgeZap]

Got everything back togeather and the top had not faulted.

Time for me to move on to the next issue
1. Right break light not always working, works fine when LEFT indicator is on.

[elcad70]

Nice work with the relays.

With the brake light problem, can you give us any differences to the following with the Ignition switch ON

Brake pedal depressed Indicator Neutral = Left brake light ON, Right brake light ON

Brake pedal depressed Indicator Left = Left brake light FLASH, Right brake light ON

Brake pedal depressed Indicator Right = Left brake light ON, Right brake light FLASH

[Dan Szwarc]

Mr. Zap, please put your car in your signature or identify it when asking for help.

He has a 66.

Brake light issues is a turn signal switch problem.

WIggle the switch to make sure it is centered and the lights will probably all work. Over the years, the cancelling may not work as well.

Do you have a tilt or non-tilt column? Tilt columns are from GM and use a GM TS switch mounted near the bottom of the column by two screws. Search this forum for the part number of the switch and where to get it. Most likely, the switch is not bad. It's the non-centering of the lever that's the problem. Pull the steering wheel and gently lubricate the pivot mechanism and you'll probably fix it.

Non-tilt are ford and use a typical, internally mounted switch that eventually fails. Not easy to replace, but easy to find parts on eBay, etc. Sometimes, the switches just fall apart. Pull the steering wheel to inspect.

[AgeZap]

Sorry Dan, I have updated it now.

Thank you for the help I'll look into it. Also I have other issues, should I start a new thread or just continue asking them on here?

[Dan Szwarc]

Best to keep threads on topic by subject. No one would expect to find how to fix a brake light issue in a relay thread.

Yes, start a new thread.