Replacement ignition lock

[thegermanfan]

My Mark IV ignition lock is wobbling around in the steering column and ACC position does not activate anything. Electricals currently only work with ignition on. So I am thinking about installing a new lock cylinder. How can I match the existing key with the new aftermarket lock cylinder? If possible I will try to save the OEM ignition lock, but it might well be impossible.

[TonyC]

Wait...just how do you mean, the ignition lock is wobbling around in the column? Is it loose in its bore, or does it turn excessively when you try to turn the key on before it catches? I've noticed that, in many cases, it's not the lock cylinder itself but instead the switch that's located further down the column, under the dash; or it's the linkage between the switch and the lock cylinder.

Now, if the lock cylinder itself is indisputably bad, replacements can be found with some researching, and the new ones can be re-pinned to accommodate the original key. In America just about any automotive locksmith can re-pin a cylinder to fit a key; I would think that there are such locksmiths in Germany as well.

---Tony

[thegermanfan]

https://youtu.be/8o3m66LWiME

Sorry the video is again upside down.
Would a new lock cylinder improve things? Or is the issue rooted somewhere else?

[TonyC]

Hmm... It's certainly not supposed to do that. Considering that you also have issues with the key turning, I suppose it may be possible that the lock cylinder is bad. However, it could equally be loose linkage between the lock and the switch, or a bad switch.

This is something that is rather tricky to diagnose, and I'd prefer you don't commit to buying a part you may otherwise not need because it wasn't the cause of the problem. If somebody here with the same problems would chime in with definitive testimony about the cause and the solution, that would be a big help. In the absence of that, I would recommend doing more diagnosis before committing to any parts, which you should be able to do if you have or can get the tools you'll need for the diagnosis. I can give you a general outline of how to diagnose.

First, remove the lock cylinder from the steering column. There is likely a pin very close to it, pressed in to hold it in place. With a drill bit or dowel of the same size, you can tap that pin out and release the cylinder. When it's out, examine its condition, see if there is anything in it that looks or feels worn or wobbly; if you do notice that, then replace the lock cylinder. If not, go to the second step.

Second, manipulate the linkage with a flat-head screwdriver, see if it is tight or loose. If it feels tight, then the linkage may be okay. If it feels rather sloppy, and/or if the mechanical locking mechanism for the steering wheel doesn't engage satisfactorily, then there may be a worn component in the linkage, meaning you'll need to get into the steering column to chase it down. The sleeve should be removable after you remove the steering wheel, but that may be more complex where the locking mechanism is concerned. It would help to have shop-manual reference for the steering column.

Third, if the linkage and the lock cylinder appear to be fine, the next step is the ignition switch itself, which is located down, out of sight, on the column inside the dash. It is possible for these to wear out, in fact more likely than the lock cylinder (at least from my experience); if it looks or feels odd when you manipulate the linkage, then it may need replacing.

I know it sounds involved, and it is; but it's a better approach than tossing parts at the problem without knowing the cause in advance, and it should not cost you anything but time to do (well, there may be rental or purchase costs for tools you may need to get, but they should not be that expensive). Doing all of this will help you determine whether you do need to throw parts at the problem, and more importantly, which parts to throw at the problem. I hope this helps.

---Tony