‘72 window motor

[Goldstar]

I got the passenger side window motor out and it, indeed, has a disintegrated drive gear. Trying to decide whether to replace just the gear or the whole motor. I’ve seen some after market replacement motors but they look plastic and cheap. The original motor looks fine. What would you do?

[Goldstar]

The busted gear…

[TonyC]

See below...

[TonyC]

FIX THE GEAR. You will be wasting money replacing the whole motor because the motor itself still works. As I've said many times to debunk a popular myth, replacing the whole thing just because of one bad component that can be repaired or replaced separately for a fraction of the cost is pointless.

You have two choices with the gear: Fix it by getting a package of new bushings in the parts store's HELP! section, or buy one of these: https://autofastenersandclips.com/produ ... 9614283463 . Either choice is a lot cheaper than a whole motor which may or may not include a replacement for the cause of your problem, and it cures your problem.

Another thing: Spray the area clean, get rid of all the old grease and any dirt or debris that might be trapped in it, and put in new grease. Get a tube of light-duty grease to replace the stuff that is in the motor.

---Tony

[Goldstar]

Thanks Tony. Good points although I don’t think it’s pointless to replace the whole thing. I don’t know anything about the motor other than the grunts it made when it was stuck. I’ll probably roll the dice and just get the parts as the motor looks much more substantial than anything aftermarket.
Thanks again,
Peter

[JimA]

Good chance dirty, old, hard grease in the tracks caused the gear to break. That's what did mine in. Be sure to clean out old grease and replace with something good for that application. I researched it but can't recall what I found.

[TonyC]

With your motor out, Peter, there is a way to test if it works properly. First, take out the old gear and clean out the entire cavity (brake-cleaner spray is good for that). Then, connect the wire plug where it should be connected, turn the key on (to ACC, not to run the engine), and operate the switch in both directions while holding the motor. If it works properly, you will feel it spin in one direction, then in the other. When the peanut-butter syndrome is eliminated (which combined with nylon debris is the cause for any internal sluggishness), window motors either will work or won't work. There is no in-between or "somewhat works." If it doesn't work at all, then it's time to replace the motor; if it works in even one direction, the motor itself is still good, thus making replacement unnecessary and unwarranted.

Below is the stuff that vets on the Forum had recommended to use on the tracks and in the motor. It isn't easy to find through local outlets, if it's even possible (there should be an equivalent type of grease made by somebody somewhere, but damn if I know whom or where). I got two tubes from a seller on E-Bay a couple years ago, used up one for three of my four windows (do a search for the description below the picture, you might get lucky). I still have to do my driver's window motor, but right now it's not a priority as that window still works. But I do have total reassurance that the other three motors will never give me gearhead headaches again, because I opted for the Auveco gears. Granted, the nylon bushings available in parts stores are a quicker fix, which may be practical if you're in a hurry to get the car reassembled and back on the road. But if you do opt for the nylon bushings right now so you can fix what you already have, at least consider getting the new gears so you have them on hand the next time a window gear breaks on you. Since you already learned how to remove a window motor, doing the job again will be easier. The Auveco gears are of such a superior design that they will outlast the motors they're installed in. I'm also attaching a picture of that gear, as the web listing doesn't have the correct picture. If you look at it, you will see that this thing is designed to last half of forever. (A nod of appreciation to our Forum founder and moderator, who first informed all of us about this type of window gear even existing.)

---Tony

[Goldstar]

Thanks so muchTony. I’ll test the motor to make sure, and I ordered the gear, should arrive in a few days.
Thanks so much for your help. Hope I can get the sucker back in!

[Goldstar]

Driver door arm rest is next. Have to buy a replacement and have it painted.

[Goldstar]

The gear above looks different than the gear in the previous link you posted. Are they the same?? The gear in your link looks just like the original. The pic above looks like a different gear.

[action]

I have replaced about a dozen gears sets or the plastic balls inside the gears on a number of FLM vehicles.
Have only replaced one motor.
There are a number of different gears. Do get the correct one.

Action

[Goldstar]

Again, I ordered the one from the link above from Tony - looks identical. the one pictured above looks different

[TonyC]

Yes, I pointed out in my last comment that the gear pictured in the link looks exactly like the troublesome OEM gears. That was also the case when I bought from there. But the gears I received, all four which were bought separately at different times, were of the design photographed in my last comment. That is what you should receive, unless they changed the design back to OE. That would not make sense to me, because the spring-loaded gear is clearly superior to the nylon-loaded gear. But do let us know how it looks when it comes in.

In the meantime, clean out, test, and prep the motor. Look for the grease I suggested, or a localized equivalent. Also, as an add to Action's advice, when your new gear arrives it would be a good idea to check the pattern of the gear against your old one, make sure they are identical. The patterns should be the same, but it's prudent to confirm. That goes for both the pattern of the outer gear that meshes with the motor's worm-drive shaft, and the center gear that meshes with the window regulator. That check will make sure there won't be any binding issues.

---Tony

[Goldstar]

Got it. Hopefully, like you, I’ll get the redesign. We’ll know in a couple days.
Thanks again
Peter

[Goldstar]

Still waiting for the gear… I did test the motor and it works fine. Look forward to putting all this back together.
Has anybody installed a Mark II Enterprise repro arm rest? Where could I find the correct shade of dark blue paint used in my interior? Thank you again Tony and others for talking me through this. Very much appreciated
Peter