York reproduction compressors question

[George W]

Just to be clear, it's the real York compressors that I've had that seeped oil out of the crankcase gasket. I don't know that they all suffer from that but a compressor that's over 30 years + old can't really be faulted for leaking a few ounces of oil over that period. A very small amount of seepage is considered normal at the shaft seal. If Nick's replacement compressor (Chinese repop ? ) leaked in the matter of a year or two then that would be a quality issue for sure. I installed a Chinese repop on my 67 AMC last year. I'll have to check it's bottom to see if it has a seeping problem.

[defrang]

The AC compressor comes on in defrost. This is true for the last 4 decades or so on truly factory AC. The reason for this is to remove moisture from the air. And that is a big function of the AC system. When the temp selector is move to defrost and hot moist air is directed at a cold windshield, the result is impaired vision. The glass either fogs up or worse builds up ice.

>>>>>Action

Current cars do this and my 2002 daily driver does, but my 65 looks like it does not. That makes fall/winter/spring driving in the Seattle area difficult due to the need to defrost excess humidity/dew that collects on the windshield in the morning. Unless you know otherwise Action?

[action]

I am not familiar with the controls of a '65.
Is it possible to engage the compressor with the push of a button?
Or turn to ac and n=move temp selector to hot then direct the air to defrost?

The goal is to have the ac on such that it removes moisture. (Dehumidifies) You are not looking to get cold air. Just dry air.

Once the interior is warmed up and the windshield is warm, the moist air inside can not condense on the inside of the windshield because the inside glass temp
is much warmer. The condition is far worse on initial start up on a day with outside temps below 40f or so.

Action

[action]

There are two other low tech alternatives when outside temps are low and in high humidity (Seattle) areas -
Start the engine and warm up the car for a long time. Again to get the inside glass temp higher.
Or park the car inside and turn on a spacer heater some 10 to 15 minutes before starting. To achieve the same result.

Neither are the best but that is what was done in the period. Especially on non-ac cars.

I lived in Michigan during high school college. A rather high humid area. Especially compared to Phoenix. Long initial engine run times on below freezing temps was kind of the norm. I lived in the Seattle area as well. (In the 80s -Redmond) The Seattle area has higher ambient temps which is better than Eastern or Central Washington.

>>>Action

[TonyC]

The AC compressor comes on in defrost. This is true for the last 4 decades or so on truly factory AC. The reason for this is to remove moisture from the air. And that is a big function of the AC system. When the temp selector is move to defrost and hot moist air is directed at a cold windshield, the result is impaired vision. The glass either fogs up or worse builds up ice.

>>>>>Action

Current cars do this and my 2002 daily driver does, but my 65 looks like it does not. That makes fall/winter/spring driving in the Seattle area difficult due to the need to defrost excess humidity/dew that collects on the windshield in the morning. Unless you know otherwise Action?

Sorry for copying that whole message, but I needed to in order to explain my own input for the way these systems operate. The full-time compressor operation applies only to cars fitted with the automatic air-conditioner. Manual A/C systems of the period did not switch the compressor on in the "HEAT" or "DEFROST" mode, only in one of the designated "A/C" modes. Since the ATC option was not available in '65, that explains Robert's case. And since ATC became standard equipment on all Lincolns starting in '71 (well, for that decade, at least, as I remember my grand's '82 Continental not having that option), that explains Action's case.

---Tony

[action]

All Ford AC systems at least since 1978 in any variation have operated that way. (Manual AC or ATC, EATC)
Likely before that year as well.

Action

[TonyC]

Perhaps; I can't really speak for the systems after '78, only before. And I know for certain the A/C components didn't energize except when the specifically-designated A/C settings were chosen in manual systems. ATCs were different in that regard.

---Tony

[LithiumCobalt]

Got my car back with the new compressor. Fortunately it is LH suction like it is supposed to be. Unfortunately, it is natural aluminum color so I guess I will have to get the paint out and take care of that. Guy at the shop said 2-year lifespan is pretty poor, but there are no alternatives. I offered to pay more to have them look for something better quality with a better warranty. No options. These are all apparently Chi-comm specials.

[George W]

You probably should have painted the compressor before it was put on. It's going to be a real challenge to try to paint it in place. Why not just leave it in the natural,unpainted finish ? Interestingly the real York compressors were painted. Apparently all of those that went to Ford were black. For whatever reason on AMC's some model years were painted black and other model years the compressors were painted silver. Ditto for the clutches. Some years black and some years natural silver, probably zinc or silver cad.

[LithiumCobalt]

Yeah I know it’s going to be a PITA. Fortunately I will be able to remove the bracketry connecting to it. I will be left with the clutch/belt in place and the lines. Going to need a lot of newspaper and masking tape. I want it black like it came from the factory.

[LithiumCobalt]

On second thought, I don't know if I am going to screw with this or not. It looks dicey at best around the front where the clutch mounts. I'll have to get bored before I try it or just paint the next one when I have to replace it again in two years. I see they broke off the mounting bracket on my accumulator, too. SOB.

[LithiumCobalt]

In honor of The Rolling Stones...paint it black. Wasn’t as difficult to do as I thought it would be. A little masking tape, about six t-shirts, two towels and some rattle can primer and semi-gloss black later...just the way Ford intended it to be. Of course I had to remove the three brackets, belt, tensioner and clutch, but wasn’t too difficult. Just for future reference, to remove the clutch, one needs a 5/8-11 bolt about 1.5 inches long.

[action]

looking good


>>>>>>Action

[LithiumCobalt]

And I’m not sure why the forum software decides to flip orientation of my photos, but anyways....

[defrang]

There are two other low tech alternatives when outside temps are low and in high humidity (Seattle) areas -
Start the engine and warm up the car for a long time. Again to get the inside glass temp higher.
Or park the car inside and turn on a spacer heater some 10 to 15 minutes before starting. To achieve the same result.

Neither are the best but that is what was done in the period. Especially on non-ac cars.

I lived in Michigan during high school college. A rather high humid area. Especially compared to Phoenix. Long initial engine run times on below freezing temps was kind of the norm. I lived in the Seattle area as well. (In the 80s -Redmond) The Seattle area has higher ambient temps which is better than Eastern or Central Washington.

>>>Action

I started driving in the 70s with my first car, a 67 Chevelle. I do not have fond memories of the prolonged warm up as the initial defroster vs the usual AC+heat/defrost that became available later. I recall my impatience leading me to roll down the window and stick my head out like a dog just to see the road as I was driving to school. Oh well not a big deal. June in Seattle area is the beginning of top down driving for the summer.