[HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Moderators: Dan Szwarc, jleonard
- burnski
- Dedicated Enthusiast
- Posts: 987
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:18 pm
- Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
[HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
So I kind of have bits and pieces scattered across several threads, and ive had questions about the swap so I figured id condense it all into a single how-to.
So im planning to put air ride on my 64, as well as a small stereo and possibly electric rad fans, in addition to the fact my car has factory AC. I knew my stock alternator would not be able to keep up and had plans to upgrade this coming winter but while out for a cruise last week the alt shit the bed forcing me to bump up the conversion.
I picked up a Tuff-Stuff 140A 1-wire alternator from summit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068k
The housing bolts right up, didnt need to clock it or anything, and there is lots of clearance all around. I did however have to swap out the included single V-belt pulley with the dual V-pulley from the stock alternator. Here is the new alternator installed on the bracket with the old pulley & belts installed:
For wiring, I pulled out the stock regulator and the harness going to it. you will need to remove the fan/shroud, as well as the channel bolted to the rad cradle. You'll likely want to remove the hood to.
heres the regulator and harness removed:
there is also a plug behind the driver headlight that is just the power to the reg to turn it on. just unplug the harness from their and tape off this plug. I also removed the little rubber shield thing that kept water off the regulator that was bolted just above it on the inner fender apron:
OK, now onto the fun part, removing the old power wire. Here is approx the path of the 8AWG power wire in a 64/65 LC.
Im not kidding, there is probably a good 25' of crusty old 50+ year old wire between the alternator and the battery because in the 64/65's all of the charging current is routed through the AMP gauge on the dash. since I bypassed my amp gauge and replaced it with a volt gauge ( How to on how to convert can be found here: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=48378 ) this was essentially just a giant loop of useless wire that could easily be shortened.
As i started to pull the old 8AWG wire out I found that the distribution block below the battery tray was broken.
Luckily this did not cause a fire, however another member DID experience a fire from this very failure: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=37717
So I eliminated the distribution block, and pulled to old 8AWG wire back as far as the solenoid, added a ring terminal, and hooked it to the battery side of the solenoid:
then all I did was add a ground strap from the alternator to the chassis, and run an 4AWG wire from the alternator + terminal:
along the frame below the battery tray:
to the + terminal on the battery:
and done. Also you probably noticed that my battery does not fit my tray properly. thats because I actually installed a tray from a 67-70 Mustang:
The Mustang uses a group 24F battery and uses J-hooks instead of the end tang as was factory in the LC's. Group 24F is the same size as a standard group 34/78, so that I can replace the battery with a standard size battery. Im ordering the XS Power V3400 next week: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/xsp-v3400
Its AGM, can supply a TON of current, and it looks good! Also notice the terminals on the new battery are opposite if the stock battery so I left my power wires long. Once the new battery is in I will shorten/ tidy up the 3 4awg wires at the battery.
Any questions just let me know!
So im planning to put air ride on my 64, as well as a small stereo and possibly electric rad fans, in addition to the fact my car has factory AC. I knew my stock alternator would not be able to keep up and had plans to upgrade this coming winter but while out for a cruise last week the alt shit the bed forcing me to bump up the conversion.
I picked up a Tuff-Stuff 140A 1-wire alternator from summit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068k
The housing bolts right up, didnt need to clock it or anything, and there is lots of clearance all around. I did however have to swap out the included single V-belt pulley with the dual V-pulley from the stock alternator. Here is the new alternator installed on the bracket with the old pulley & belts installed:
For wiring, I pulled out the stock regulator and the harness going to it. you will need to remove the fan/shroud, as well as the channel bolted to the rad cradle. You'll likely want to remove the hood to.
heres the regulator and harness removed:
there is also a plug behind the driver headlight that is just the power to the reg to turn it on. just unplug the harness from their and tape off this plug. I also removed the little rubber shield thing that kept water off the regulator that was bolted just above it on the inner fender apron:
OK, now onto the fun part, removing the old power wire. Here is approx the path of the 8AWG power wire in a 64/65 LC.
Im not kidding, there is probably a good 25' of crusty old 50+ year old wire between the alternator and the battery because in the 64/65's all of the charging current is routed through the AMP gauge on the dash. since I bypassed my amp gauge and replaced it with a volt gauge ( How to on how to convert can be found here: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=48378 ) this was essentially just a giant loop of useless wire that could easily be shortened.
As i started to pull the old 8AWG wire out I found that the distribution block below the battery tray was broken.
Luckily this did not cause a fire, however another member DID experience a fire from this very failure: http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=37717
So I eliminated the distribution block, and pulled to old 8AWG wire back as far as the solenoid, added a ring terminal, and hooked it to the battery side of the solenoid:
then all I did was add a ground strap from the alternator to the chassis, and run an 4AWG wire from the alternator + terminal:
along the frame below the battery tray:
to the + terminal on the battery:
and done. Also you probably noticed that my battery does not fit my tray properly. thats because I actually installed a tray from a 67-70 Mustang:
The Mustang uses a group 24F battery and uses J-hooks instead of the end tang as was factory in the LC's. Group 24F is the same size as a standard group 34/78, so that I can replace the battery with a standard size battery. Im ordering the XS Power V3400 next week: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/xsp-v3400
Its AGM, can supply a TON of current, and it looks good! Also notice the terminals on the new battery are opposite if the stock battery so I left my power wires long. Once the new battery is in I will shorten/ tidy up the 3 4awg wires at the battery.
Any questions just let me know!
Last edited by burnski on Tue Aug 23, 2016 3:57 pm, edited 7 times in total.
- Dan Szwarc
- Site Admin
- Posts: 29864
- Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2000 1:01 am
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
I made this a sticky in the sticky forum.
Also, moved to electrical and accessories.
Also, moved to electrical and accessories.
The below links are mostly dead.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
- burnski
- Dedicated Enthusiast
- Posts: 987
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:18 pm
- Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
awesome thanks Dan. sorry thought I put it in the electrical section. cheers.Dan Szwarc wrote:I made this a sticky in the sticky forum.
Also, moved to electrical and accessories.
-
- Frequent Contributor
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2015 7:41 pm
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
thanks good stuff and another item on the check list to do.
1962 Lincoln bagged
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:21 pm
- Location: Lake Stevens, WA
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Pat,
some questions (possibly stupid questions):
If you removed the voltage regulator is there another voltage regulator in the new alternator?
For those of us that are leaving the amp gauge, how would you wire this particular one wire alternator into the system?
Thanks for the excellent pictorial. I would like to increase my amp output for a stereo/iphone carplay system.
Rob
some questions (possibly stupid questions):
If you removed the voltage regulator is there another voltage regulator in the new alternator?
For those of us that are leaving the amp gauge, how would you wire this particular one wire alternator into the system?
Thanks for the excellent pictorial. I would like to increase my amp output for a stereo/iphone carplay system.
Rob
Robert DeFrang
- burnski
- Dedicated Enthusiast
- Posts: 987
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:18 pm
- Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
The new alt has an internal regulator so you just eliminate the factory external regulator and harness.
No you can't keep the factory amp gauge. The first time your battery draws more than 50A from the alternator; that gauge will catch fire. Also the wire to that gauge is woefully under sized and too long. Ideally you'll have only 5' of new 4awg wire. Not the 25' of 50 year old 8awg that's in there now.
Consider converting the amps gauge to volts. It looks and functions similar to stock and eliminates the risk of fire. Hers my how to on how to do that. http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=48378
Video of the gauge in action. Looks and works just like stock https://youtu.be/4-qrnULDvAo
No you can't keep the factory amp gauge. The first time your battery draws more than 50A from the alternator; that gauge will catch fire. Also the wire to that gauge is woefully under sized and too long. Ideally you'll have only 5' of new 4awg wire. Not the 25' of 50 year old 8awg that's in there now.
Consider converting the amps gauge to volts. It looks and functions similar to stock and eliminates the risk of fire. Hers my how to on how to do that. http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/v ... =2&t=48378
Video of the gauge in action. Looks and works just like stock https://youtu.be/4-qrnULDvAo
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:21 pm
- Location: Lake Stevens, WA
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Thanks Pat. I think I will put a new alternator in and for now just unhook the connections to the distribution/junction block to stop current flow to the amp gauge and the regulator. I have too many projects on the list ahead of amp gauge conversion. I will have to get to that later.
Robert DeFrang
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
I just used a variant of this alternator for a one wire conversion on my 62, and it works quite well. The battery charges at ~14.5V at idle and regulation is good under load. I went with the JEGS 10127 because I wanted a black housing and it had free shipping on Amazon. It is 100A not 140, but aside from HID headlights and LED halo parking lights, I'm not running any non-stock loads.
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:21 pm
- Location: Lake Stevens, WA
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Solid,
did you bypass the amp gauge? any modifications to fit the stock mount?
did you bypass the amp gauge? any modifications to fit the stock mount?
Robert DeFrang
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
62 does not have the ammeter so that is a headache I didn't have to deal with. The Ford compatible mount requires a 1963+ mounting casting attached to the engine block, so if you have the ammeter I guess you already have the correct mount. 61-62 came with generators that have a much longer housing than the Ford alternator mount.defrang wrote:Solid,
did you bypass the amp gauge? any modifications to fit the stock mount?
Since the alternator mount came as part of the alternator kit from Baker's that I had on the car, the JEGS 1-wire designed for a Ford mount fit perfectly, and I think you can get this piece easily and cheaply from any of the Lincoln dismantlers (I kinda suspect this cast piece is used on all kinds of non-MEL engines too). You also have to swap the pulley since the JEGS comes with a single V pulley and the stock one is a dual. I suppose if you like the shiny single pulley from the JEGS, you could just use different belts and not have the fault tolerance.
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:21 pm
- Location: Lake Stevens, WA
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Thanks Solid,
changing the pulley out to the double works and I can just disconnect the junction block, amp gauge, and voltage regulator when I put a sound system in that will require more amp output.
changing the pulley out to the double works and I can just disconnect the junction block, amp gauge, and voltage regulator when I put a sound system in that will require more amp output.
Robert DeFrang
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Good pics. I tried this 15 years ago and never got good results. I think because I didn't ground the alternator. I was learning and there were no resources for peoples trials and tribulations. Thanks for the post.
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1151
- Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Lutz, FL
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
Resurrecting this thread. Thanks for the thorough posts. Picked up my 250 amp alternator today and will be installing in Project Smuggler’s Blues. Build thread: https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/ ... 42&t=51010
Jason
Jason
Jason "ODB" Ballard
Instagram:
@bd94s10 https://www.instagram.com/bd94s10/
@OurLifestylePodcast https://www.instagram.com/ourlifestylepodcast/
@LincolnAddict https://www.instagram.com/lincolnaddict/
#ProjectSmugglersBlues https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/ ... lersblues/
Instagram:
@bd94s10 https://www.instagram.com/bd94s10/
@OurLifestylePodcast https://www.instagram.com/ourlifestylepodcast/
@LincolnAddict https://www.instagram.com/lincolnaddict/
#ProjectSmugglersBlues https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/ ... lersblues/
- Dan Szwarc
- Site Admin
- Posts: 29864
- Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2000 1:01 am
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
250amps! Are you charging your house? That’s 3kw!
The below links are mostly dead.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
-
- Addicted to Lincolns
- Posts: 1151
- Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Lutz, FL
- Contact:
Re: [HOW TO] 140A 1-Wire Alternator Conversion
LOL. I know right. My buddy Ton has a 140 amp on his '65 Red Sled and when the air compressors are on, headlights, etc. he can tell it is dragging. I asked how big they could build the alternator and he said we can do a 250. The price was right so I said sold. LOL. I figured why not. I'll def upgrade the amp gauge like Pat did. I've been toying with doing it but now I feel I must. I'll keep everyone posted.
Jason
Jason
Jason "ODB" Ballard
Instagram:
@bd94s10 https://www.instagram.com/bd94s10/
@OurLifestylePodcast https://www.instagram.com/ourlifestylepodcast/
@LincolnAddict https://www.instagram.com/lincolnaddict/
#ProjectSmugglersBlues https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/ ... lersblues/
Instagram:
@bd94s10 https://www.instagram.com/bd94s10/
@OurLifestylePodcast https://www.instagram.com/ourlifestylepodcast/
@LincolnAddict https://www.instagram.com/lincolnaddict/
#ProjectSmugglersBlues https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/ ... lersblues/
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests