Power windows booster relays

[Dan Szwarc]

By offloading the current to the relays from the switches, the delicate switches that are slowly dying only carry enough current to switch the relays. The relays literally do the heavy lifting. Voltage drop is lower across new relay contacts compared to the switches.

It works on all windows, especially the front passenger.

It's not really necessary for the vent windows because the vent windows do not draw as much current and have much less resistance to movement because they simply pivot in place instead of going up and down against gravity, but you could add them if you wanted. Most people don't complain their vent windows are slow.

You can use any 20-30 amp relay. The relays must have 5 pins. 4-pin relays won't work.

[poweroptions]

Chad , no nothing different for the drivers door, and your lock out button will function as designed. The relays will have 5 blades on them with a 5 wire plug. I have found that they seem identical in color coding and numbering from assorted vendors. Yes 2 are required, 1 for up and 1 for down. I've not had vent windows act sluggish on my 60s Lincolns and Tbirds, they all have preformed excellent. It's always the front windows on 1961-71 Lincolns and all 4 windows on the Mark IIIs that require the relays. I'm very anal about chopping into the original wiring harness so I do a surgical procedure, insulation is expertly dissected, the wires are wrapped together then soldered and I then use shrink wrap sleeve connection covers that shrink tight over the wiring when I apply heat with my heat gun. This makes for a lifetime connection that is water tight. I've had black electrical tape get goopy in our Texass heat and unravel because of it's cheapness these days. I buy my shrink sleeves off Ebay and I bet Harbor Freight would have them too. Pat PS. You'll jump for joy when this procedure is completed and you watch your windows zip up and down.

[itkonen]

Do these cars have safety power windows and where is that safety system located? Separate relay somewhere or is it built in the switches panel? Or does it exist at all? And if it does exist, does this relay system override the safety system? Jus asking because I would like to do this but I have kids.

[poweroptions]

As I recall there is no safety override in our vintage of Lincolns.

[RyPow]

By offloading the current to the relays from the switches, the delicate switches that are slowly dying only carry enough current to switch the relays. The relays literally do the heavy lifting. Voltage drop is lower across new relay contacts compared to the switches.

This is similar in purpose to the headlight relay "mod" popular on many older vehicles with no headlight relays - I learned of it over in the Panther platform camp. Take the high current out of the aging factory switch and through modern relays. All the factory switches do is feed the miniscule power required to energize the relay coils.

The relays must have 5 pins. 4-pin relays won't work.

This is known as a "single pole, double throw" or SPDT relay. The 4-pin variant is SPST (single pole, single throw).

[RyPow]

Do these cars have safety power windows and where is that safety system located?

The only "safety" provision in some of the older window setups - '70s, at the very least - was a bimetallic thermal overload in the head of the window motor beside the brushes. Motor gets hot, bimetal contact opens, motor stops. I've never tested it, but I can't imagine it is very fast-acting - more to save the motor from burning out, rather than stop the window from crushing someone/something's appendages. EDIT: this contact can oxidize and cause intermittent or total motor failure. I had this issue on a Mark V and ended up cleaning the contact with fine-grit sandpaper. Voila, working window motor. After cursing at the brushes for 20 minutes as I tried to get the motor back together

I believe automatic circuit breakers also made an appearance on some window systems, although I'm not certain. Basically just a discrete form of the bimetal switch responding to current draw instead of motor heat.

I reckon a true modern window "safety" mechanism - with reversing - only came in the mid-late '80s at the earliest, with the advent of cheap small-scale integrated circuits to supervise the window current and provide the automatically switched motor power to drop the window back down. Probably around the same time as auto-down windows appeared.

[itkonen]

Thanks for info, if there is no safety system ( or it is in the motor ) it is all the same to add relays. No operations lost with it. Sometimes I am maybe too protective and overcaring with kids.

[Steve K]

Would someone just point me to any URL for the correct relays? If I see what I need, I can shop for the same thing elsewhere. Or do I just search for a 5 pin relay? Sorry to be so dumb about this stuff. But I definitely want to do this. I have been so unhappy with me windows, and all along I have been thinking friction, dirt, and lubrication and I have done that anally without much help.

I do the same thing with soldiering and heat shrink. Have a good supply of both and a heat gun. But my experience is mostly with audio systems and I have never installed a relay in my life or seen one for that matter. Any ebay or orther part source that has a link to the specific item would be much appreciated

[RyPow]

Would someone just point me to any URL for the correct relays? If I see what I need, I can shop for the same thing elsewhere.

Just search for 12V 30A SPDT relay.

ie:

http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-tyc ... )--330-070

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-Bosch-St ... 0753045034

[Steve K]

So is this what we are talking about? This is a socket and relay which looks like it would be easy to hook up. Seems more expensive than others, but right now I just want to get my amps, voltage and other requirements pinned down so I know what to buy.

Is this the right thing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PACK-30-40-AM ... 1358504129

[Barry Wolk]

That's exactly what I was talking about. You just have to ground one of each of the coil terminals so that the switch signal has someplace to go.

[poweroptions]

Chad those are the exact relays. I bought the 10 packs off EBAY. I see the number codes and wire colors are exact as my diagram in drew out . It is really EZ once you do one. I fought windows on the Lincolns for YEARS ! This takes care of the problem. The GM cars like my Eldos and Rivs never had this problem. I hide all the relays within the armrest so in case of a relay failure I could get right to them without pulling the door panels. Drilled one hole and pop riveted them in place.

So is this what we are talking about? This is a socket and relay which looks like it would be easy to hook up. Seems more expensive than others, but right now I just want to get my amps, voltage and other requirements pinned down so I know what to buy.

Is this the right thing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PACK-30-40-AM ... 1358504129

[Steve K]

I would guess that there is plenty of room inside the door for them as long as you keep them away from moving mechanisms. I been thinking about where to put them. I think there is room in the backseats under the ashtrays in the arm rest. Not sure about the front. If there was an easy and elegant way to run new wires into the doors, I would do a bank of relays under the dash for all of them. But that looks out of the question which the wad of wires and hoses already running into the doors.

[snoopy]

I believe I have the part numbers you need to buy these parts locally, but it may cost a little more also have a # for a pigtail made for these relays! I use these relays for all kinds of stuff. Let me see what I can find

[Steve K]

Do you think these would plug into the existing window motors and switches so I could avoid cutting into the factory wire harness?

http://www.delcity.net/store/2!Way-Flat ... tor/p_8873