1966 Power windows
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Re: 1966 Power windows
Bob. On your pass window use a voltmeter when using the switch and see if ur getting 12 volts. My guess is your not. Then check pre switch and see how many volts are coming into the switc& that way toll know if its the switch or not. I just finished getting all 6 of mine working. Had to rebuild 3 switches
]68 continental - sold....
69 continental parts
71 chevelles ss
97 z28 convt
69 continental parts
71 chevelles ss
97 z28 convt
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Re: 1966 Power windows
I have several sets of window switches that I have aquired over the past few years. I have tried on two of the switches to removed the fulcrum unscessfully. Once I destrutively renoved the switch I noticed the fulcrum is severely rusted, it was like this on both of the switches I have broken. The rest of the switches appear to be in about the same condition. Any thoughts on how to best remove the fulcrum? Must be the oregon dryness that has caused them to rust. I have tried to carefully soak the fulcums in penetrating oil but with no luck. I'm afraid the reply to this is going to be the switches are a lost cause.
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Re: 1966 Power windows
Since the fulcrum is so tiny it's easy to break the plastic housing trying to press it out. Penetrating oil and lots of patience is all the advice I can offer. Also, make sure the switch is fully supported on the side the pin comes out of. Maybe drill a tiny hole into a block of wood and tap the pin into that...66stinkinlincoln wrote:I have several sets of window switches that I have aquired over the past few years. I have tried on two of the switches to removed the fulcrum unscessfully. Once I destrutively renoved the switch I noticed the fulcrum is severely rusted, it was like this on both of the switches I have broken. The rest of the switches appear to be in about the same condition. Any thoughts on how to best remove the fulcrum? Must be the oregon dryness that has caused them to rust. I have tried to carefully soak the fulcums in penetrating oil but with no luck. I'm afraid the reply to this is going to be the switches are a lost cause.
Rob
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Re: 1966 Power windows
I have a 65 LC Hard top and the issues i am having is that the rear driverside window works interminttently only off the driver switches in the front, some times it does more times it doesnt, also i am not getting a hot to the switch to the rear driverside window. I already replaced the regulator and regreased all the tracks and the motor works great. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem and if so how did you resolve it. I spent most of my day trying to figure it out. The switches are good too i cleaned and resealed them my self. Is there a connection point for the wires somewhere in the car. I am thinking i have a break or falty wire somewhere, I am hoping not tho. Thanks everybody.
Mitch
Mitch
65 Hardtop
Re: 1966 Power windows
Because it makes the book thicker and look as if you are really getting some serious volume for your money. Keep in mind those books were never thought to become a restoration resource for a car some 30 or more years after production and things like switches were simply considered throwaway replaceables just as they are today.66Lincoupe wrote:That's my biggest gripe with Chilton Clymer and Haynes, Not enough detail where there should be... Too much where it doesn't really need to be... Why do they always have a 15 page section on applying body filler??
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Re: 1966 Power windows
Not a restoration resource, but a few pertinent facts about the actual vehicle would be nice. The general knowledge stuff could (should) be in a completely different book. I dont need a substantial volume. I just want to know how to get to the heater core - or a fuse diagram - I don't need a comprehensive wiring diagram. But "remove dashboard" to get the radio out isn't helpful if they don't offer guidance on actually removing the dashboard.76MarkIV wrote:Because it makes the book thicker and look as if you are really getting some serious volume for your money. Keep in mind those books were never thought to become a restoration resource for a car some 30 or more years after production and things like switches were simply considered throwaway replaceables just as they are today.66Lincoupe wrote:That's my biggest gripe with Chilton Clymer and Haynes, Not enough detail where there should be... Too much where it doesn't really need to be... Why do they always have a 15 page section on applying body filler??
Haynes claims their manuals are based on a complete teardown yet are missing TONS of information on disassembly. Clymer is a close second and I've found that while missing some serious meat the Chilton is the best bang-for-the-buck.
Overall, the manuals are what they are... They help level the kitchen table. I'll save the frustration and get the build books for the cars.
Rob
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Re: 1966 Power windows
I need to print this out and add it to my shop manual... This is a great piece of info. I have a lot of switches that will get this done. My 66 sedan will love it... as so will I...
Thanks for the time and excellent presentation.
Thanks for the time and excellent presentation.
Re: 1966 Power windows
Too bad all of the pictures have been lost for this thread.
Jon
1966 Continental Convertible
Eastern Shore of MD
1966 Continental Convertible
Eastern Shore of MD
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Re: 1966 Power windows
Right? This was before I started using the forum's library. I'm trying to find the pictures but have at least 100k+ unsorted photos to go through. it's taking a while.JCSLOCUM wrote:Too bad all of the pictures have been lost for this thread.
Rob
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Re: 1966 Power windows
Right? This was before I started using the forum's library. I'm trying to find the pictures but have at least 100k+ unsorted photos to go through. it's taking a while.JCSLOCUM wrote:Too bad all of the pictures have been lost for this thread.
Rob
Re: 1966 Power windows
I hope you find them!! Thanks for making the effort.
Jon
1966 Continental Convertible
Eastern Shore of MD
1966 Continental Convertible
Eastern Shore of MD
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Re: 1966 Power windows
anyone know where you can source the black cover for the window switches that holds the switch together or any other parts to rebuild?
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Re: 1966 Power windows
The only thing holding the switches together (we are talking strictly '66 or '67 switches here) is a pin that shanks through the toggle and the housing; some retain themselves with a thinner section in the center of the pin, others (most) are held in place on one end with a very small Jesus clip. Do you mean the black cover that is supposed to keep dirt and moisture out of the switches? If so, then there is an option: John Brewer, owner of Brewer Classic Lincolns and one of our Forum's vets, sells them for $4 apiece through his E-Bay store. I have the link saved to my watch list; I've been pondering the thought of getting a complete set of these, as opposed to the electrical-tape method I've been using for years, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264776738782 . You'll need 10 of them to cover all the switches, if you have coffee-crank vent windows; you'll need 12 if you have powered vent windows.
---Tony
---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
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1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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Re: 1966 Power windows
I fabricated some out of a piece of rubber roofing membrane, and just now I find out Brewer sells them for four bucks? Wish I knew that then. They used to be double that from a now defunct vender I won't name.
Anyway, shameless plug time, for an extra 71 bucks, you can get a NOS switch, along with the black cover seal, in the "for sale" portion of this Forum!
Anyway, shameless plug time, for an extra 71 bucks, you can get a NOS switch, along with the black cover seal, in the "for sale" portion of this Forum!
Fraser Noble, Western Canada
'62 and '67 LCC.
'62 and '67 LCC.
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