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Kansas City Joe · Post by **Kansas City Joe** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:51 pm

I read below that you need to do a conversion in order to used unleaded gas!?! What happens if you don't do it and use unleaded gas? I just got my engine out of the machine shop(a complete rebuild)......should I have done this?

princessmaggie · Post by **princessmaggie** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 10:09 pm

This ought to enlighten you:
http://www.michiganlcoc.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000189

I use a lead replacement in every tank of gas. Better safe than sorry. Did the shop do a valve job?

By the way, what year car?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 5:38 am

This is what I know. Leaded gas has been gone since the early 80's. Most of the cars I have owned since have been pre unleaded models. I have yet to have one have a engine failure. I have been told by several engine rebuilders that running unleaded can cause you to need a valve job after about 40,000 miles. I have yet to have that happen. We had a mercury with a 390 that in 1990 when it was bought it had 40,000 miles I sold to car to a friend with 92,000 on it he put the engine in a truck and it now has another 25,000 on it. The engine runs great and has never been torn down. You can add lead substitutes, I feel they are a waste of money. That is my opinion though. But the few miles we put on these cars each year it most likley does not matter. [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] Brad

Avenger · Post by **Avenger** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 7:39 am

I have done stainless valves and seats on several cars. A very expensive propasition, but over the long haul perhaps worth it. I have driven 462's 375,000 miles with out any real problem, but that car was driven 100 miles a day. After many more miles I can tell you that you can use additives, but be sure (especially with octane boosters) that you burn all the gas out of the tank before parking the car for extended periods. The additive break down over a short time and you can stick a valve. Doug.

princessmaggie · Post by **princessmaggie** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 7:59 am

Doug, you have a knack for scaring the life out of me. [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

Define "extended periods." As I write this, my car is sitting in the garage without a carburetor and half a tank of gas to which was added an octane booster. I should have the carb back from Pony in a week or so, but I still need to replace the timing and that will take a bit more time.

KULTULZ · Post by **KULTULZ** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 8:45 am

If you are going to leave a vehicle sitting for a lengthly amount of time, fuel (gasoline) stabilizer should be added to keep the fuel from breaking down. If the fuel smells like varnish, it should be drained and replaced.

-AMSOIL Fuel Stabilizer-

Kansas City Joe · Post by **Kansas City Joe** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:09 am

Sorry, it's a 61 sedan. Thanks for the info everyone!

Avenger · Post by **Avenger** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:27 am

Yes, gas stabliser will do it, but if you have put octane booster in, I would siphon out the gas if the car is going to sit for a while...one of my customers had a very sorry day after his $2500 valve job went south because of bad octane booster. Doug.

Willard E. Anderson · Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:35 am

Hello Avenger/Doug,

Wow! That would be disappointing!

I really appreciate your knowledgeable and experienced input.

Thank you!

Sincerely, Willard.

princessmaggie · Post by **princessmaggie** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:55 pm

Well, my plan is to have this car put back together within a month. I think a month of downtime should be okay. And then I'll do as you suggest and burn off the fuel. The only reason an octane booster was added was because "someone" (not me) put regular in instead of premium...

Let's just leave it at that. [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

LaurentH · Post by **LaurentH** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 6:21 pm

Guys

I talked to the machine shop Fri eve, they showed me how thin the casting is around the xhaust ports. On top of it, there is a good 1/16 inch of casting shift that might be different from head to head. And this is only for the port that is visible from the freeze plug hole.
I browsed through the previous topics and a few people mention they had hardened seats installed w/o problem. I would like to know what size seats they used. 7/32 inch i.e. .218 inch is the thinnest I know of, the deck is around .30 so depth wise it should be alright. OD might be too big and cut thru the water jackets.
The shop said they do not know how long the heads would last w/o hardened seats, from 1 week to 10 years. I have to precise the shop is making mostly racing engines though. There is no way I am spending a grand to not have the job done properly!
So basically, I need numbers from an experienced guy who did the job before. Please!

L

KULTULZ · Post by **KULTULZ** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 2:15 am

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote

So basically, I need numbers from an experienced guy who did the job before. Please!

I doubt that you are going to find an experienced automotive machinist here...and that is what you need is a machinist who is familiar with this series of engine.

Did the machinist say anything about the possibility of sonic testing the amount of material around the seats? In my experience with this subject, only the exhaust seat needs to be hardened.

If the machinist is in a quandry, you need to find someone who is more experienced. How much work has he done to the heads so far?

I still think you need to call JASPER in the morning and talk with them.

hhmetal · Post by **hhmetal** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 7:56 am

I had a head-shop rework my 430 heads, including the addition of hardened seats. He selected the seats based on valve size.

I'm sure there were other factors, but he was the professional and figured it out on his own.

LaurentH · Post by **LaurentH** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:02 am

Thank you Kultulz

I talked to Jasper, they rerouted me to Dana's division Perfect Circle. I am not positive as their seats manufacturing capabilities yet. More investigation required here.

BakersAuto in CT said I can definitely put hardened seats in there. Steve is going to ask his machine shop. They would rock (again) if they could figure this out for me!

The machine shop was referred to me by a lot of enthusiasts in the Santa Barbara area. I guess I could go to LA, but I do not know of anybody there who is experienced in this type of engine.

The shop has so far dismantled, hot tanked and checked the heads for cracks, and ordered the parts. They never mentioned sonic testing.

Missing Linc, do you please have the contact info of your rebuilder, so I can call them?

Thanks

L

Avenger · Post by **Avenger** » Tue Oct 28, 2003 12:15 am

I have some spare hardened seats I did not use, and will try to measure them for you accurately. Two sizes are available. Doug.

TheLincolnForum.Net

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