Clack! Bang! Screeeechh!

[Lincolnlovers]

Happy mother's day to all you Mom's out there and to all you sons, I hope you're showering your mother with much deserved affection today!

So, yesterday while driving, I heard and felt (in the steering wheel) a slight clank, like I ran something small and metallic over. I saw nothing in the road as I approached, and saw nothing behind me, looking in the rearview. Moments later I heard the same noise, I took my foot off the accelerator, and started to slow, when the noise and vibration happened for the third time, followed by another series of noises and then serious vibration, as to what I thought was a flat tire, also, it seemed like one of my wheels locked up.
Upon inspection, after bringing the car to a stop on the shoulder, I found no flat tires. Instead the car, while running, and going into gear, wouldn't move forward, though it strained to do so. It wanted to go, but something was keeping it from moving forward. It would move in reverse, though it took more effort than normal. I set the e-brake and turned the car off. Wrecker came and picked the car up. Upon putting the car in neutral for the wrecker driver, I started it, put it in gear to automatically take off the e-brake and it wouldn't release. Drive, reverse, nothing. Also noticed putting the car into gear there is a noticable hiss, like a vacuum leak, coming from under the dash. I found a lever under the dash that will release the e-brake, but I didn't figure that out until he had dropped the car off in my driveway...
Anyway, anyone have something similar happen, or an idea of what caused the car to lock up? Could it be as simple as the vacuum line breaking while driving, and locking up? Or does it even work that way? Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

[Lincolnlovers]

Incidentally the hiss (vacuum?) ceases when the car is in park or neutral. Only hear it when the car is in drive or reverse

[TonyC]

Yowtch...

The vacuum hiss is probably caused by a defective neutral-safety switch, if it only hisses in drive gears and not in the rest positions. But that may be only incidental to your bigger problem, not the cause of it.

The symptoms you described sound suspiciously similar to symptoms I suffered about 10 years ago, though in my case it took longer for the final breakdown. That sounds very much like a transmission failure, the worst mechanical failure a car can have; how big a failure, I don't know; but I'm afraid it's in need of rebuilding if my guess is right.

How much will that cost? Depends on the transmission, which depends on your year. C-6 rebuilds can be relatively cheap; the two I've had went for $1.4Gs per. Of course, that was 17 and 9 years ago, respectively; God only knows how much it's inflated since. The quality of the rebuild should also factor in; it can make the difference in terms of time before the next one. If you were close to DeRidder, LA, I'd tell you exactly where to go.

---Tony

EDIT, 9 May: I had forgotten what year and model you had until I just looked it up; we're talking the '65 sedan, yes? If diagnosis seems to lead to the transmission, that could be an extra hardship, because the transmission used on Lincolns from '61 thru '65 was not like anything your typical transmission shop would be familiar with. It was essentially an evolution of the first-generation automatics Lincoln developed, very similar internally to the "X-O'Matic" generation of Ford transmissions in the '50s, but in a different case. That transmission was exclusive to Lincoln, and only a shop that knows these transmissions first-hand and has contact with the Usual Suspects with regards to replacement parts could do a rebuild if one is in order.

On the other hand, some who have had tranny failures with this period have pointed to simpler solutions without resorting to rebuilds. If I remember correctly, there are tubes inside the transmission which are accessible when the pan is removed. Sometimes, one of those tubes can dislodge and cause what seems on the surface to be a disabling failure. But re-installing a dislodged tube restored normal operation. I'm hoping it's that simple for you, but at this stage I cannot make any promises.

Something else, too, if you do go in there: The filter used in there is one of those filters that requires replacement at regular intervals; it is not a screen-like filter that can be cleaned out and re-used, as the C-6s have. Further complications exist regarding that filter, which is no longer produced by anyone to my knowledge, meaning the parts stores will not have even so much as a listing for it. That would mean reaching out to the Usual Suspects for possible sources, or luck out on E-Bay, which is actually a hit-or-miss scenario. I did see one NOS filter for your transmission listed there last year, but because it wasn't something I'd need for my own car I did not follow it.

[frasern]

It could be the transmission, but lets check out the brakes first. Remove both drums and inspect. It sounds like something got loose and piled up. Then, when you applied the P. brake, the cable pulled farther than it has previously, now the release has bottomed out, and hissing. This is just speculation, only a look will confirm, and you can do that yourself, unlike a transmission.
While you have it apart, if the brakes are not the problem, turn the axles and see if everything moves smoothly. Lincoln diffs are very strong, but anything that old could fail.

[stevedrums]

i am praying for your transmission

[Lincolnlovers]

Well, I spent the better part of today investigating the happenings of last week, mention above. Guess what?! It was my passenger front brake caliper! Transmission rebuild averted! The lower bolt fell out. So I sourced a new grade 8 at the hardware store. I also lost the spacer, and had to use washers. I need the spacer, and a factory bolt, if any of you happen to have one you'd be willing to part with??? Otherwise, any suggestions on sourcing one?

[TonyC]

?! How did that happen?? Those bolts are torqued down to 110 ft./lbs., they cannot just work themselves off...! Well, not without help, anyway...

But, I am glad you managed to avert a major surgery; brake calipers are much easier to deal with than a transmission. Now, about sourcing a permanent replacement bolt...unless someone has an extra lying around (possible but not very likely), I say that you will need to source a new heavy-duty, heavy-torque bolt from your local hardware store; you will likely find any and every fastener you'd need for your car, regardless of application, there. What I suggest is that you take out the other mounting bolt and carry it with you to match it to the stem size, thread pitch, overall stud length, and torque rating of the original. I'm fairly sure that somebody who works there can set you up with the correct replacement bolt. Good news is, you will not have to worry about the caliper falling out if you remove the other bolt; the rotor will keep it in place. Bad news is that you cannot and dare not try driving the car until you secure that caliper back into place. And remember, those bolts need to be torqued down to 110 foot-pounds, so the replacement needs to be serious iron.

Again, I'm glad your serious problem has a simple cause and, hopefully, simple solution. But, I still have to wonder, how could that bolt have fallen out? At that amount of torque, it's impossible for it to worm out on its own. Oh, and, while you're at it, just in case you or someone helping you hasn't already, you really need to check that caliper, rotor, hub (to include bearings), and spindle for any collateral damage from that incident.

---Tony

[Lincolnlovers]

?! How did that happen??

Your guess is as good mine. Likely whoever worked on the brakes last, just used an impact and didn't torque them To spec. Over time, it backed out. The last owner was the last one to have the brakes serviced, so I don't know much more than, it happened.
Now, I've gotten it back together, I put it up at the house, in the garage, so that's a relief. I had it down in the covered parking pad in front of my shop, so I had plenty of room to work on it, and easier access to my tools. It's open to the elements on the front, but deep enough to back the Lincoln and my F250, side by side, with a foot or two to spare. However, here in Oklahoma, rain, and more worrying, hail and miscellaneous debris, are known to move almost horizontal due to crazy wind, and can come out of seemingly no where. So inside the garage is where it sleeps. I washed it, and took it for a little test drive. At first it felt fine, it was moving and not locking up! But test driving it told a different story. I heard and felt some seemingly slight rattles and pops that weren't happening prior to the incident. Also, a surge coming from the right front, when the brake is applied, is suggesting that the rotor is at least warped, of not damaged further. I did not notice anything when putting it back together, but I didn't inspect it closely either. It's out of the weather for now. When I get some time, I'll trailer it over to my buddies shop and put it on the lift, and we'll see what's what. I think a front end rebuild is likely due, but we'll see. In the mean time, I've still gotta find that bolt and spacer...

[JimA]

Would be a good idea to closely inspect and re-torque all the brakes and anything else the PO had worked on.

[TonyC]

What I thought: Whoever was last down there got careless, and it's been too long to find and confront them about it. Hopefully there is no additional collateral damage save maybe for a warped rotor; these cars are pretty tough. But it would be prudent to inspect the hub for core damage, bearing damage, that sort of thing. Bearings can be had at parts stores, and they're not expensive.

Rotors can also be had, though for $100+ per. However, it's presumed the old hubs are to be re-used with new rotors, which may be daunting as the two appear to be one piece. But, although I still have to confirm this, they should be separable; they look to be held together as one only by the lug studs, and popping them out should separate the two. When I can buy new rotors, like next month, I intend to find that out.

But I am serious about sourcing a matching bolt and washer/spacer at your hardware store, carrying your other bolt and washer with you as reference. I have found just about every fastener I'd need for Frankenstein at my local True Value.

---Tony

[Lincolnlovers]

But I am serious about sourcing a matching bolt and washer/spacer at your hardware store, carrying your other bolt and washer with you as reference. I have found just about every fastener I'd need for Frankenstein at my local True Value.

---Tony

That's exactly what I did on Saturday. Took the upper bolt and spacer, and went to true value. I live out in the country, so a trip to the good true value is about 45 minutes one way. Anyway, I found a proper grade 8 bolt, but no spacer. I also tried Napa warehouse, no luck. But I've got time, I'm sure I'll find something that will work.

[TonyC]

I think what you're thinking about is more a lock-washer than a spacer; if spacing is needed, the factory brake hose that feeds the caliper would serve that purpose. Very odd they did not have a lock-washer to fit that size bolt; my True Value would. Maybe they were out. But at least you got the bolt, which is good. That's a major part of the hunt completed.

---Tony

[Lincolnlovers]

Tony, this is the bolt, spacer, and lock washer that came off of the upper caliper mount. I am guessing the lower is the same size? I sourced the bolt and lock washer, but no correct spacer.

[TonyC]

Yes, the other bolt would be identical. I am very curious about that spacer (thanks for the visual aid, it makes it more clear what you were asking). I have no such spacers on my brakes, and mine are the same design as yours, caliper-wise. My bolts have only the lock-washer to go with them, and any spacing would be done by the holding bracket that's integral with the OE-designed flex hose that attaches to the caliper. Incidentally, I'm not running on correct OE-designed flex hoses; I'm using a pair of cobbled hoses I pulled from an organ donor about 16 years ago (coincidentally, that donor was also a '65). As long as they still work, I saw no reason to remove them in favor of new OE-designed hoses...but I do have a new pair for when that time inevitably comes.

But I digress. That spacer just looks, to me anyway, like it does not belong in the setup, that possibly whoever botched the brake job long ago added those "just because." My grand had issues with mechanics doing such things. Now, I could be wrong, and I ask others to chime in and verify or refute my opinion. But my brakes do not have those spacers as part of their hardware, and I have not had any issues with my calipers in that regard. UNLESS...

The only purpose that spacer would serve is to shorten the distance the bolt screws into place...and the factory bolts were cast already to that length, meaning no redundant spacers. So...that leads me to theorize whether the mechanics who last worked on (and botched) the brakes might have lost one or both bolts and covered up with on-hand extras, but those (or at least that one for sure) were too long to use, prompting them to shim out with those spacers. Check your other caliper, see if its mounting bolts also have those spacers; if it doesn't, then we know that cover-up took place. That would mean another store run, this time for a pair of slightly-shorter bolts of the same size.

---Tony

[frasern]

67 calip

I am curious about the term "spacer". Was that thick washer under the head of the bolt, or between the caliper and steering knuckle?
On my car, the bolt in question has holes cross drilled in its head, and a wire tied between both I will try to upload a picture, but it is a bad picture. I was just reaching around and clicking blind, because removing the tire is hard and I am a very lazy man.
I probably have those bolts in a rusty coffee can somewhere, but John Brewer is more organized than me, and a lot closer.
If that spacer was under the head, it is my understanding that a lock washer and flat washer should never be used together. The lock washer needs to dig into the bolt, and the housing to work, a flat washer will float, releasing tension on the lock washer, and render it useless.