Haven't run since 1994?

[Jewlz]

I just purchased a 62 Lincoln Continental last weekend. It's in rough shape but I got it for a good price and I'm up for the challenge. The PO says it ran on starter fluid, but I don't believe him (PO also said the floors were good and that ain't the case, but I digress). I'd like to get the car running before I tackle the floors, interior and metal work. If one of these beauties hasn't run since '94 (sticker in the window) what areas should I check, inspect and replace first? I'm going to pull the gas tank and make sure that its clean and free of sediments. I'll blow out the gas lines with air and rebuild the fuel pump. Replace the points, cap, plugs, rotor button and wires. I'll clean the carb and rebuild it. I'll replace the belts, coolant and coolant hoses and have a fire extinguisher on standby. What else am I missing? Anything specific to these cars that I need to check before attempting to start it?

Thanks, - Jewlz

[JimA]

You'll find lots of advice here on what to service. One thing that's often 0mitted is the transmission. In bringing back a non-Lincoln after sitting for 19 years, I dropped the trans pan and some of the ATF was like gelatin. Also flush the brake system and check the rearend grease. Tires will have to be replaced. Check for mouse nests in all the cavities. I even found them in the headliner.

[TonyC]

Another thing: The engine. Actually, for any 60-year-old engine that has been dormant for 28 years and no way of telling how it was used or abused for the previous 32, a rebuild is really warranted, even if it turns by hand. I know that sounds intimidating, but even the bullet-proof MELs are not totally indestructible; all it takes is a larger explosive projectile. I can virtually guarantee that the timing gears are shredded, especially the nylon cam gear; the oil pump is OE and thus incapable by this time of pumping oil in any adequate amount; the oil and coolant passages in the block are stopped up with either grey goo that resembles freshly-mixed JB Weld (that is what happens when engine oil sits stagnant for decades), or scaly, rusty crud that will choke off any fluid flow (in the latter's case, coolant). Even if the engine does turn by hand, it will very likely have all these underlying problems that will eventually catch up to you. It just happens with 60-year-old engines that have been neglected and/or abused.

Yes, you do have quite a challenge to face. Now, on the bright side, you do have parts support from numerous sources, including but not limited to the Usual Suspects. It won't be a cheap venture, but it will be cheaper than trying to retrofit a completely-different design of engine which the car will not accept outright. Comparing the five figures you'd have to spend to completely revamp the whole powertrain and the car's unit-body structure to fit any such revamps in (not a recommended venture, as you cannot just "chop up" a unit-body car and expect it to hold itself together on an interstate afterward), a four-figure rebuild of what you already have is a more economic and sensible alternative. You may even be able to squeeze out a bit more power than the meager 300hp that engine produced in '62, especially if you decide to convert to a four-barrel carburetor and intake manifold.

Floor pans are a fairly easy bodywork job, as they aren't a major structural component, and somebody out there may even market properly-shaped floor pans. It's just a matter of cutting and welding everything properly. The thicker parts of the unit body are what you really need to take care with. They are not normally prone to terminal cancer, they are very tough indeed; but again, nothing is indestructible.

I'm wishing you the best. It sounds like you may have a bigger project on your hands than I did with Frankenstein...and he was quite a venture, having been dead for 15 years, part of that time submerged, when I found him.

---Tony

[papawayne]

In addition to the rest of your list, before you do a rebuild, if nnecessary, I'd give the engine a good double flush (water and oil passages). It is full of rusty water and gummy goo, as Tony has said, and I'd replace the valve seals, as they are now the bits of hard plastic that you will find under the valve covers and in the oil pan. Wayne

[LithiumCobalt]

A complete rebuild sounds a bit extreme to me. Try to get it running first. Rebuild the carb, check compression, make sure fluids up to snuff, replace the oil pump with a high volume unit, check under the valve covers to see what the condition is....go from there. very likely need valve stem seals, belts and hoses after all this time. Most of them do. Just because something has been sitting for a long period doesn't mean it needs new pistons, bearings, cylinder honing and cam machining.

[frasern]

That's nothing, mine hasn't run since '75! How it was stored is more important than how long, if stored outside, in a humid environment, condensation will get in everything, all fluids will have water. And assume every "wear and tear" thing is bad until verified otherwise, but it sounds like you're on the right path.
One thing I have found, the brake line and 2 fuel lines, which run along the left underbody rail, will likely have rust. in particular, check behind the fender liner, at the bottom. there is a shield near the brake cable, which holds dirt and moisture around those tubes. Also, 2 fuel line hoses, a little farther up, will need to be replaced.
I used a borescope to inspect the cylinders on mine, I hope he means firing on starter fluid, running on either would be really bad.
Welcome, the world is a better place with more '62 Lincolns!

[tomo]

A thorough inspection of the engine, the engine compartment and chassis would be my first step. Look for signs of damage by rodents and time, check out any signs of fluid leakage, rust or other damage. Assess the damage in relation to what you expect from the car.

A compression test would be my next step, after an oil change. You don't want 27 year oil circulating in your engine. If you don't have decent compression or it is all over the place, having all of the other parts clean won't make it run.

If the engine has been sitting in one position for 27 years, the valve springs have probably taken a set and the valves will not operate properly, the rings may have been damaged by the PO attempts to start the engine.

If getting the engine to run is the most important item on your check list, clean the carburetor and hook up a temporary fuel delivery system to get it started. Let it run for just long enough to assess the condition of the engine.

[Dan Szwarc]

This question gets asked about every 2-5 years and has been answered. There's lots of advice stored somewhere, particularly in this engine sub-forum.

I think one was called "found in a barn".

[Dan Szwarc]

Barn find from 32 yrs ago

1978 Mark V 400 ci engine & car revival

5 tips for starting an old engine


This is a tough one. There's probably a better guide on the general internet, but keep looking.