Engine Drama Continued (From Sluggish Starting Issue) (R)

[LithiumCobalt]

Well that doesn't sound like the news you were hoping for. Might be better to just cut your losses on this block and send it into retirement. The tiniest crack has the ability to spawn all kinds of havoc. Liquid always finds a way. You could spend thousands rebuilding only to have the crack become larger. Personal inspection definitely warranted.

[TonyC]

Yes, that is the next step, to go there and see what they found. If it's not what I think (or to be precise, hope) it is, then yeah, I'll need a replacement. But if it is what I think, I will just take a chance and worry about a replacement down the road when I have a second car to rely on. I've been paralyzed for too bloody long, I want my car back.

---Tony

[action]

Crack repair on block deck usually means welding or screwing in pin(s)
Followed by machining
Not for the inexperienced nor the tech without some serious equipment

Cracks in cylinder can be fixed with a sleeve
Cracks in exterior water jacket can be repaired with epoxy

None of those repairs are bullet proof and come with risks. Such that there may be a future failure. This block has been over stressed to a level that has caused a crack. Depending on how localized the stress, playing wack a mole may be real.

Depending on the tech and the area or areas that need to be repaired it may be more cost effective to get a used block.
I would guess you will get an estimate to fix.
You might want to get a price on a non-cracked block.
Some of the fb groups modify slab sides all the time, removing a MEL and dropping in some other engine. The take out engine might be had for cheap. Transporting it become the expensive piece.

Action

[Dan Szwarc]

Replacement block time.

[Mike]

You'd think the machinist or whoever else is working on the engine would be able to tell if the crack is going to be an issue or not.
It's probably worth it to start looking for another engine to rebuild and avoid any future problems.

[tomo]

If the crack does not go into the cylinder, the best method of repair is stitching. http://www.locknstitch.com/precision-me ... ching.html

With only 1 crack, I would opt for the stitching by an experienced person. If there is no one in the shop that has done stitching before, go for a used or re-manufactured engine.

In the 1950's, I had a Mercury block stitched in 3 places and drove the car for anther 50,000 miles with out a problem. Welding a block is a touchy situation. You have to pre-heat the block, weld the crack and then put the block back in the oven to bring the temperature down slowly. This method can cause additional cracks.

[action]

There is a 67 MEL engine for sale in Seligman AZ (On I 40 West of Flagstaff) listed on facebook market place
About 1100 miles one way
$500 OBO

Been listed for 23 weeks
Transmission included
It is a very small town that relies on mining and tourism (Route 66) for income
Even though the listing is old likely the engine has not sold.

Listing states
1967 Lincoln continental 462 motor and transmission. Motor ran fine when I pulled it. Trans leaks through the front seal. $10 and 5 min fix since they are out and apart. Text nine 2 8 eight 5 three 81 six zero. I don’t have Facebook messenger. Make me an offer.

928 853-8160


Action

[TonyC]

Well, I still have to see what the machinist found, then make my own call. I'll know what route to take once I see it; but a caveat, if it is what I think it is, I just may violate ASE ethics again.

But replacement is a back-up option (thanks for that listing, Action, I didn't know about that). If it did run fine when pulled, I should check into it when I get home. $500 is not a bad deal. But what concerns me is the shipping; those two bits weigh in at a good 1,000 pounds...and I really don't have a need for the transmission, as mine has already been rebuilt and upgraded.

---Tony

[action]

Shipping a MEL engine would be rather cumbersome. I was thinking you might need to rent a vehicle and/or trailer and make a road trip of it.

It would be difficult for you to violate ASE ethics
- You as you do not hold the certification.
- they do not regulate ethics. They certify a specific skill set. If you have the skill set you could get a certificate that states you have that skill set

But as far as doing a repair that cuts corners, yeah I get that.

As to the engine/transmission combo, no one says you have to take the transmission. Or take it and sell it.
Or don't and I drive up and get a free one.

Action

[TonyC]

That could be a good option, if it comes to that. I really don't want to see an otherwise good transmission core go to waste, especially since this is a unique version of C-6. But yes, the tricky bit would be taking delivery; the option of renting a hauler vehicle is not available to me.

I can check with the seller...but I think I might still go with doing the best I can with what I have. Maybe with the coolant passages finally cleared, any further self-destruction will be slowed long enough for me to improve my overall situation, so I will not be paralyzed again the next time this happens.

---Tony

Update, 21 July: I was finally able to get to the machine shop two days ago to see what they found. It was the same thing I suspected, so I told the machinist to press on with the job, as I do not believe that crack will have immediate consequences. Now I'm waiting on them to get back to me with recommendations on piston and bearing sizes to shop for. They did a good portion already: Polished the crank, hot-tanked the block, removed the expansion plugs...now once the cylinders are smoothed out I can charge on with the rebuild...assuming that no more "surprises" come up to drag this ordeal out any longer. I don't want any more surprises! I want my car back.

[action]

Tony,

I bought your engine. Just couldn't help myself!!!

Named her MELinda.
She is rather complete with a 3 port fuel pump, AC compressor engine wiring harness and all of the engine tin.
She did come with her tranny, drive line, the 3 keepers between the drive line and output shaft plus an air cleaner, AC condenser, radiator and may some other pieces that I missed.

She is a dirty lil wench.


As a bonus, got to drive on the mother road!
US Route 66
https://www.route66roadtrip.com/route-6 ... d-trip.htm

Action

[mge825y]

JACKPOT! Nicely done Action!!

[Mike]

Cool. Well worth it for everything it came with.

[TonyC]

Dittos, good score there, Action! I'm very glad to see that it was salvaged by someone I have confidence in! Very nice bonuses, too!

The latest on my end is that I'm now waiting on the shop to do the finishing touches to the cylinders and get back with me about the bill. They told me the respective sizes for parts on Friday...if they had told me that a week ago when they determined everything, I could have had that order put in by now! O well...

Of course, they can't test-fit the pistons to the cylinders; he said it will be likely that they'll be fine anyway, but there is a chance they may not fit straight in. But something the machinist told me has prompted me to get my block back ASAP, despite the fact they can't do the piston test-fit at this point: The dreaded "B" word (back-order), which could be possible where the pistons are concerned. If that happens to me, I'd rather have my engine here instead of a strange shop in another town where it could get "mislaid." Anyway, he told me I do need 30-oversize pistons & rings, and "10-10" bearings. Forgive my admitted ignorance, but I need clarification for the last spec there. I know it's a sizing reference, but I'm not exactly sure what that means. Could someone school me there?

---Tony

[action]

Dittos, good score there, Action!

Anyway, he told me I do need 30-oversize pistons & rings, and "10-10" bearings.

---Tony

The 10 10 reference to bearings would be the crank shaft bearings. Assuming they have and had machined the crankshaft.
If yes the crankshaft has 2 sets of journals. Connecting rod journals and main journals.
Main journals have bearings and bearing caps connected to the block
Rod journals have bearings and bearing caps connected to the connecting rods

Both journals have been machined to to .010 smaller or 10 (thousandths) under. Or referred to as 10 10.
Rather typical for a first cut or machine

Action