Carb Connections on 337 ci Engine

[swmddo]

(Note: other than me mistyping the cubic inches on the subject line),

My '49 Cosmopolitan is ready to attach the electrical harnesses. When I got the car, the vacuum hoses were pretty much disconnected except for a few just to be able to start the car. As I removed the engine, most of them fell apart from rot. (Should have taken more pictures)

Is there a diagram anywhere that shows or tells me what vacuum connections need to be made to the carb and/or intake manifold and where? I know where the gas and distributor connect, but some of the strictly vacuum connections are a mystery to me. If there are specific places that the radio antenna and wipers connect, that would be helpful, too, as neither of those were connected when I got the car.



Thanks

Steve

[tomo]

Steve, I do not know where you could find a vacuum hose connection diagram. The accessory section of the Over Haul Manual is missing on my copy. Here is what I think are the correct vacuum connections:
Threaded port on carburetor goes to distributor vacuum advance
Hose connection (may be a pipe on your car) on intake goes to the fuel pump booster.
Fuel pump booster goes to a T connection
One of the T connection hoses goes to the antenna switch
The other T connection hose goes to the wiper switch

There is also a rubber hose on the automatic choke, it connects to the air tube on the other side of the carb. Check out the automatic choke section of the Overhaul Manual.

If you have other connections, please submit a photo as it will help identify the function and connection.

[tomo]

The power antenna diagram is in the 1949-1950 Chassis Parts Catalog Feb 1950 issue on page 262

[swmddo]

Thanks, Tom.

[tomo]

Steve, did you get everything hooked up and working?

[swmddo]

Tom, I think I have a good start on the appropriate connections. I have one additional "rod" used with the fast idle on the carb, that I am still trying to find a home for. Sorry for the late reply. Had to schedule Covid vac.

Steve

[tomo]

I'm in the northwester suburbs of Chicago and in Cook County. We have one site that is supposed to give the vaccine, but they have no appointments at this time and you have to check to see if they have appointments. I wish that I had spent more time learning how to program under Windows so I could run a continuous check program to let me know when the appointments are available. I spend about an hour in the morning and another in afternoon trying to get my wife and I appointments.

I am glad that you were able to schedule your appointment.

The only rod that I see coming from the fast idle cam goes to the choke butterfly and is held in place by a hairpin clip.

[swmddo]

I feel for you. My wife and I have seen a myriad of doctors that are part of a regional health system in the Atlanta area. They KNEW how old we were and emailed us with a link to schedule our vaccines at one of the satellite locations. Got right in at the time requested, and they sent a follow-up email to schedule the 2nd one which is not on Feb 10. Hope you can shake the Cook County machine to get going for you. (I grew up in central IL, so I know about Cook County)

Yes, I have that bent rod you mention. The tube/rod I am talking about is a hollow tube about 5/16" OD with two bends. The description in the book is a Thermostat Choke Control output tube. I have no idea where it goes. The pictures in the Chassis book don't show enough detail on how the carb fits with the intake manifold, etc. I wish there were more drawings or isometric drawings that show that detail. The Overhaul manual has black and white pictures that are difficult at best to see, and they don't have larger photos to show all the connections. That carb is so old, that I doubt anyone has any more detail on it. I have tried all sorts of searching on the Internet, but nothing so far.

Steve

[action]

Interesting

A thermostatic choke tube (if I understand what you are posting) was used on many carbs all the way into the 1970s. It is a tube that connects a heater stove into either the exhaust or intake manifold to the choke on the carb. Draws in heated air to warm up the shoke bi-metallic spring to get the choke to turn off swiftly.

If the pic I attached comes out, this is on a late 60s V-8. The clean air comes from the top of the carb, to the heater in the right exhaust manifold, then to the choke. Typically the tube from the manifold to the choke has an insulated wrap.

Good news is a replacement can be had very easy and cheap. The universal tube is very bendable and comes in a couple of diameters.

Action

[action]

This kit has some adapters to fit different diameter holes. If this is what is needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-7685 ... B000CO96U4

Action

[tomo]

Steve, is this drawing what you need? If it isn't, could you please post a photo of the tube in question and the carburetor. It would also help to see photos of both sides of the intake manifold.

[swmddo]

Action and Tom, thank you both! The picture is perfect. I probably have that somewhere in one of my books, but this definitely shows what I am talking about. The exhaust manifold valve was broken so I do not have one. There were either no replacements that I could find, OR the one that MIGHT have fit was $150. I did not think I needed it that badly.

Thanks again. I believe your notes will give me the answers I need.

Steve

[tomo]

Steve, the heat riser valve is not required for proper automatic choke operation, but both the cold air and the hot air pipes are required. The hot air pipe should be insulated to provide enough heat to the thermostatic spring. You want the choke to open as soon as possible to keep the mixture from being too rich. If you can get the black insulation for an authentic look, otherwise paint it with a flat or low gloss paint before installing it on the pipe.

The heat riser helps to prevent carburetor icing in ambient temperatures near and below freezing and to help atomize the fuel at those lower temperatures. You probably won't be doing much driving in those conditions and a 3 minute warm up during those conditions should make your car drive-able.

My Mercury never had a heat riser as the position of the carburetor on top of the engine and a short warm up was considered adequate back then. My Lincoln came from the factory with a heat riser valve and it is even harder to find than the one for your Lincoln. One of the 2 previous owners threw it away. Its location inside of the crossover pipe probably made it very troublesome.

[swmddo]

Tom, thanks again! I will see what I can do to get some insulation for the hot air pipe. One of the pictures in the Chassis book shows it on a total engine view, and it looks like it was cloth or some braided material.

The only other thing (I didn't take enough picture!) is the 7/8" male pipe thread and female inverted flare nut on the top of the intake manifold right behind the carb. Tried to find info on what it was used for,,,appears to be some oil-related connection, but to where I am not sure. Any ideas? Sorry to bother you with all of these stupid questions. Ten years ago when I restored a '48 Ford coupe, it was NOTHING compared to this beast.

Steve

[action]

Tom, thanks again! I will see what I can do to get some insulation for the hot air pipe. One of the pictures in the Chassis book shows it on a total engine view, and it looks like it was cloth or some braided material.

Steve

Pretty sure it was braided asbestos at one point.
Not sure of the material that is now used in the service kits.
And the service kits are rathe cheap.

Action