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I HAVE LOCKS! Turns out, one of the ground connections was corroded. I opened it up, sprayed contact cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. After reassembly, the locks are working with perfection. So the moral of the story is to open and check the contact points. This Lincoln sat in a building...

I like to have everything work on my newly acquired ’77 Town Coupe. My door locks would not operate so I went to work. I have all the wiring diagrams and I’m ready to pull my hair out. After working probably 9 hours yesterday on removing both door panels and testing the left side actuator, (the righ...

Hi, I’ve decided I need to find a good used intermittent wiper assembly, including the yellow boxed governor showing in the pictures, not just the switch for my ‘77 Town Coupe. Anyone have all these pieces? I believe all these assemblies are the same for Fords in the mid ’70’s. I need however the 10...

Thanks Dan, I hope this seller in CA has the whole enchilada.

Guys, I’ve been looking for a switch/governor set up for my ‘77 Town Coupe. Look like a fellow from CA is parting out a ‘78 Coupe. We all know the dashboards are totally different, but are the “innards” of the intermittent systems the same? Thanks for all replies.

I would start directly with the horns themselves. If they blow when bench tested, then have someone push the horn button while holding a test light at the horns’s power lead. If no light, it’s either the switch or the relay. If it lights, the horn is dead. John fell down a hole from 2009. :smt006 I...

I would start directly with the horns themselves. If they blow when bench tested, then have someone push the horn button while holding a test light at the horns’s power lead. If no light, it’s either the switch or the relay. If it lights, the horn is dead.

Interesting, I have never heard of a vacuum controlled system, my '71 LTD, I am sure, had the same system as Johns car. I put the control from an '89 truck in my '67 and it was the simplest upgrade imaginable, I had to cut about 1/2 inch off the shaft, for the knob to sit right, but plug and play o...

Guys, thanks for all the tips. I was able drop the tank after finally breaking the nuts free. One of them I was getting nowhere and finally resorted to cutting the strap. Turns out I was right, the tank was virtually empty. Dan, yes the bolts are not caged, as you wrote, the bolts have a square head...

Speaking of gas tank removal, I’m faced with a challenge. Both of the caged nuts are free spinning. I’ve tried the “two nuts” approach and now I’m rounding off the nut! Normally I would just grind the nut off but I’m very hesitant to do that with a fuel tank above my head. It might be the only way, ...

Dan and all, yes the gauge works (from what I can tell, it did jump to full when grounded) and it currently shows empty, I did stick a clear tube down the filler tube and using it like a dipstick, it shows almost nothing………..just don’t want to be surprised!

Yup, pretty flat

Guys, I don’t have a scope, so anyone have a trick to find out ho much fuel is in my tank? I put a hose down the filler tube and it sounds like it was empty, or nearly so. I have dropped fuel tanks before when I THOUGHT it was empty, only to find out I have a half full tank over my head.

Dan Szwarc wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 11:28 am Any luck locating the intermittent switch?

Not yet………unless I want to spend $250-$300!

Great information, I have them saved. Thank you.