TheLincolnForum.Net

Thank you Action! I will look for a closed cell foam block and try to carve the shape.

Rob

I changed out the pillar switch and discovered the rubber/foam gasket that goes over the pillar switch between the body and the jam latch had dried out and shrunk. It was originally sold with with the switch and I have not been able to locate a replacement. It is part number C1VF-14A172-A in the att...

Thanks for your input Tony!

I'm hoping someone can help with an electrical question on my 1966 LCC. Situation: Emergency flashers will work properly ONLY if the ignition is ON or in Accessory AND the turn signal lever is either in the right or left positions. Facts: 1) I have 12+ volts getting to the switch in the glove box fr...

Update: The turn/brake/light harness is located in the passenger side rear corner of the car and it is not necessary to have the emergency flasher wiring connected for any of these lights to work. I am searching for a partially broken or corroded splice in wires (there are several factory splices.) ...

Looking for some help for: 1) Emergency flasher switch wiring schematic for a 66. I cannot find it in my paper or electronic August 1965 maintenance manuals. 2) The brake/turn/light wire terminal left and right separation location – maybe behind the jack and tools? 3) If the emergency flasher termin...

The previous owner of my '66 installed air shocks with an air fitting in place of one license plate bolt. They have worked great the past 14 years. Every spring I put a little air in and it is good for the season. The only concern is that at the proper height, the top doesn't clear an opened garage ...

I recently had a charging issue on the '62 Thunderbird. I brought both the regulator and generator into a shop for testing and they found a bad regulator. The regulator is available at NAPA and they can tell you which one you want. They have a good and a better. I changed regulator covers and then n...

Adding a source for the Viton ETP o-rings: Grainger 1-800-472-4643 part number 3CRR8.

I just used 12 gauge that I had readily available. The motors run slower, but it still gets the job done and doesn't take up too much space in my tool kit. The wire will spark when you touch the positive terminal, but you will be fine if you hold it by the insulation.

I wanted to share a tool tip for anyone with a 60's convertible: A wire with a spade connector that is long enough to reach from the positive battery terminal to the relays behind the rear seat . On my '66 LCC, the deck close relay failed closed and thus, the deck lid motor continued to run even tho...

Oops, I thought the first step stated to remove the splash shield nut in the engine bay. You can ignore the nut for the blower, but get that splash shield nut out before you jack-up the car!

I have to get into that area to check for a vacuum leak. This is from the manual:

TonyC - you are absolutely right to use the antenna knob for the antenna (the actually had a power antenna installed when I bought it!) Eric at Lincolnland said the now obsolete center knob would work. Thanks for you opening my eyes! Solid - The 62 servo is a beast with multiple layers of rubber tog...

For the third or fourth time, my rebuilt HVAC servo in has stopped working. I understand the 63 cluster will install quite easily, but will look different. Has anyone done this and if so, how did it work for you? I would be sure to use the '61 knobs, but the '61 center knob controls the servo and on...