I ordered the 30003 FiTech system, and the 40102 fuel pump. Here are the links:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fif-30003
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fif-40102
i started by installing the wiring harness. most of it is pretty easy, its only 6 wires (including AC & aux fan). The only kinda tricky wire is getting a full 12V while the key is both ON and START but not while in accessory. I grabbed this from the alternator regulator harness:
Next its time to remove the old carb, fuel pump, filters, aux fuel pump, etc:
the first problem is that the arms on the EFI body hit the PCV plate:
so I ground the plate down with a die grinder, and trimmed the gasket with a knife:
the next problem is the throttle arm hits the vacuum tree. I simply was able to give it a slight bend and rotate the tree down out of the way:
next i need to splice the coolant temp sensor in. I added it to the bypass hose that runs from the top of the waterpump. I used a brass 1/2" tee with barbed nipples. Then i clamped it all together (not shown):
then hooked up the throttle linkage
next i needed to remove the fuel pump pushrod. i put a piece of wood on the waterpump and used a brake drum adjustment spoon to pop out the freeze plug. then i was able to remove the push rod and reinstall the old freeze plug. Also need to extend the vacuum advance as the port on the EFI is at the rear of the throttle body
I then installed this fuel pump block off plate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-402035
next i removed the fuel sending unit, cut it to match the length of the new fuel pump, and bubble flared the end of the steel pipe:
and i clamped on the new fuel pump. It still needs to be wired and supported so its not just hanging by the hose:
[imghttp://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/download ... p?id=35104[/img]
i ripped out the old rusty/crusty steel supply & return lines:
but was careful to keep in tact the piece that goes from under the rear door to the tank as it has several complex bends so that I can reproduce it:
i picked up a roll of 3/8 steel tube and a bender to start bending new high-pressure fuel lines:
so far this is as far as I have gotten, other than a new rod for the air cleaner. the stock carter/edelbrock is 1/4" but the FiTech is 5/16 so you will need an adapter: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-g3002/
I have also picked up all the AN fittings, filter, clamps etc. Hopefully get that together this week.
bent all new supply & return hard lines with bubble flares on the ends
EFI hose ran through a ICT 30 micron inline filter to the throttle body, and return line ran. I routed the lines through the hole in the fender where factory cruise control would be if i had it
the hard lines behind the front driver fender liner
Here are the AN fittings & filter I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
air cleaner bolted onto the FiTech TB:
next steps are finish plumbing the lines to the tank, and get the O2 bung welded into the exhaust.
oh, forgot to add this. i routed the cable to the handheld programmer into the glovebox.
Its alive! Here is the finished fuel pump (other than cleaning up the wiring)
I also welded in the bung for the wide band o2 sensor about 8" past the collector" the driver side. Sorry didn't take a pic.
Heres the fuel pump priming itself:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35J9h5bBgsI
Heres the same priming process, but looking into the FiTech throttle body:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJj_fGRVmVY
Heres the throttle linkage working. The problem was that there are 2 really stiff springs on the butterfly's on the FiTech. Infact they were soo stiff that when you stepped on the gas it would over power the kickdown spring, causing the kickdown to actuate first. So removed the spring from the throttle linkage, moved it to the kickdown side, fixed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWpY-JbbQsc
Here here is the first time firing up the FiTech:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ersXL1QhMGg
So I've been having a hesitation and traced it back to a fuel pressure drop issue. Got me thinking about my return fuel line. Part of the requirements for the FiTech is 3/8 supply and return (which I did) except for the last 6"where I refute to 3/16 so that I can use the factory return line... Which turns out to have only a 1/8" ID. I pulled it out and installed a 3/8" barb. Reset the computer to learn again and BAM, hesitation is gone.
Few things I have found after putting 200+ km on the FiTech:
1) put some RTV on the fuel pump block off plate.
2) the handheld programmer draws about 48mA while off so unplug it if the car is going to sit for an extended period.
3) you dont need a relay for the AC signal wire, there is a setting to change the ground signal to a +12V signal.
4) keep your fuel pump pressure at the default 74.9
5) the Camshaft setting is more than just a "gut feeling". Cam #1 is if your engine can pull more than 15Hg vacuum, which you should be with a stock cam.
6) it will continue to run better each time you drive it. it may by stuttery/sluggish at first but it will even out.
7) im already seeing significant fuel economy savings. I used to get around 8MPG, im now seeing around 11MPG.
the stock air cleaner hold down stud from the factory Carter / aftermarket Edelbrock is only 1/4', whereas the FiTech has a 5/16" boss, so you will need a conversion kit: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g30029) The system will NOT run if you are still in points/condenser. You need to be running an electronic ignition such as a pertronix. Points will set a "rpm noise" fault code. Here is the Pertronix your after: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1281
10) I am seeing fuel economy gains in the 33-50% improvement range
